You might have to use a rounded shaft screwdriver or similer to hold the quadrant back against the spring. Once on the pin the clutch is self adjusting and will be heard to ratchet up on first operation of clutch pedal.
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Hi, procedure from autozone.com pasted below. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
The clutch driven disc often contains asbestos, which has been
determined to be a cancer-causing agent Never clean clutch surfaces with
compressed air. Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface. When
cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially-available brake cleaning
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Lift the clutch pedal to its upward-most position to disengage the
pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the
quadrant and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Open the hood and remove the screw that holds the cable assembly isolator to the dash panel.
Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine
compartment. On 5.0L engines, remove the cable bracket screw from the
Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
Remove the dust cover from the bell housing.
Remove the clip retainer holding the cable assembly to the bell housing.
Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable.
Remove the dash panel isolator from the cable.
Install the dash panel isolator on the cable assembly.
Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through
the hole in the clutch release lever. Slide the ball on the end of the
cable assembly away from the hole in the clutch release lever.
Install the clip retainer that holds the cable assembly to the bell housing.
Install the dust shield on the bell housing.
Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the
vehicle. On 5.0L engines, install the cable bracket screw in the fender
Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the isolator with a screw.
Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to
disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then, pushing the quadrant forward,
hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.
Depress the clutch cable several times to adjust the cable.
Pre 1997/9 models of Fords were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.
If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.
If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.
In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure.
There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.
1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on ebay etc.
2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.
Disconnect the FOOT-PEDAL-SPRING to release the slack normally taken up by the 'Quadrant & Pawl' (ratchet) which is faulty.
Remove end of nipple from clutch-cable (engine-end).
Fill slack with bolts & washers or other filler.
Drill hole in LARGE nut & bolt (like split pin but inverted).
FIT NUT & BOLT TO REMAINING PART OF CLUTCH-CABLE NIPPLE.
ONLY CUT VERY END OF CABLE-NIPPLE LEAVING AS MUCH CRIMP AS POSSIBLE, ...then clamp the nut & bolt over the crimp. This is less likely to slip or even cut cable.
Clutch-cable should be able to be re-fitted without tools or tensioning the clutch-arm. Final tension of cable should leave CLUTCH ARM & CABLE SLIGHTLY LOOSE.
NOTE : Overadjustment of clutch can cause damage. Therfore only remove a minimum of slack from the cable.
LIFT THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO DISENGAGE THE ADJUSTING MECHANISM.THIS MUST BE DONE DURING CABLE INSTALLATION AS FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE SELF ADJUSTER MECHANISM.INSERT THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE DASH PANEL AND THE DASH PANEL GROMMET.( WARNING ) BESURE THE CLUTCH CABLE IS ROUTED UNDER THE BRAKE LINES AND NOT TRAPPED AT THE SPRING TOWER BY THE BRAKE LINES IF EQUIPPED WITH POWER STEERING ROUTE THE CABLE INBOARD OF THE POWER STEERING HOSE.PUSH THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE INSULATOR ON THE STOP BRACKET AND THROUGH THE RECESS BETWEEN THE PEDAL AND THE GEAR QUADRANT.LIFT THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO RELEASE THE PAWL ROTATE THE GEAR QUADRANT FORWARD AND HOOK THE CABLE INTO THE GEAR QUADRANT.INSTALL THE CLUTCH SHIELD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET.ON THE TEMPO OR TOPAZ INSTALL THE PANEL ABOVE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.USING A PIECE OF WIRE CORD OR TAPE SECURE THE PEDAL IN THE UPMOST POSITION.INSERT THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE INSULATOR AND CONNECT THE CABLE TO THE CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.REMOVE THE DEVICE USED TO TEMPORARILY SECURE THE PEDAL AGAINST ITS STOP.ADJUST THE CLUTCH BY DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH PEDAL SEVERAL TIMES.INSTALL THE AIR CLEANER.
Escort Van? Never saw one. Best thing to do is get on www.partsamerica.com and type in your vehicle info. Choose the clutch section and you will see cable or hydraulic. I've never seen it with both listed.
easiest way i have found is to fit a cable off of and mk3 cortina which has the adjuster on the gearbox end,anyway the pedal shaft can be pushed over two plastic spacers keyway located either side of pedal ,evan an old hand like grandad here has a job as its so fiddly.not really a weekend mechanic one this one