An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: How do I remove the dash board of BMW 735l
Are you loosing engine coolant? If so,maybe a heater core issue.This usually requires instrument panel removal. If so it is labor intensive.This is a job for a mechanic with at least a 7 to 8 skill level on a scale of 1 to 10.Good Luck..
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
you have a A/C-Heat blend door actuator malfunction. This door switches from A/C vent to heater core vents via an actuator motor.Very Typical problem on Ford/Mercury/Lincolns vehicles. There are multiple actuators in this vehicle, some in the dash and some in the rear (only if equipped w/rear A/C-Heater. This will require pin pointing the exact fault, and may require lower dashboard or rear quarter panel interior trim (if rear A/C-Heater equipped) removal
Oh boy! Getting dash out is a real mission Controls for heater are probably vaccum controled Check in engine bay for any vaccum hoses broken around inlet manifold Dashboards are both bolted and clipped and you'll probably need a service manual or you'll end up breaking something
The blower motors on this vehicle lis located underneath the dash. The upper half of the dashboard is removable and entails removing the spedometer cluster. The airbag also needs to be removed to get to some usually white triangular looking nuts that hold the wooden trim above the glovebox. Removal of the front side panels to the left and right of the windsheild is also required. If this helps; the blower motor is located right below the large center vent in the center of the dash.
1. Remove the dash around radio (just clips) 2. Remove 2 screws pointing up . (You do not need to remove screws which are parallel to the floor) 3. Remove screw pointing up on the bottom of the dashboard on left side of the driver (near left leg). 4. Remove 2 screws pointing up in the instrument cluster area. 5. Put car in 1st gear and gently remove black plastic surrounding instruments (it will have ait vents, so slide it carefully out not to damage foam insulation on air ducts; start on the bottom hear steering column) ; unplug connectors to clock and emergency flashers. 6. Remove 2 screws, now exposed, near instrument area, holding dashboard. (that was what I spent most time on, I didn't know about this screws. 7. Now gently remove (or move up) dashboard (around instrument cluster and heating controls.) Start next to ignition (careful not to damage the bulb next to the ignition. Since you only need to get to the heating controls block, I only move up the dashboard next to it. 8. Remove 2 screws that hold the heating control and slide heating control out . This step is unnecessary If you totally removed the dashboard. 9. Pull out lever controls for fan speed, zone and temp 10. Use the screwdriver (flat) to pry 2 plastic tabs on top and on the bottom of heating control so black cover can be remover. 11. You did it! two bulbs are going to be under the cover.
The controls for your heater/vent selection is inside the dash, behind the control switches you use to select the vents the heat/AC will come out.
When you move the selection levers, there's a few things that happen. Vacuum is applied to the doors (which are inside) and they open or they work using cables to move the doors or both. The different doors open, directing air flow to the vents selected.
Remove the controls from the dash (which should just be removing some screws, maybe a few small pieces of dash and pulling it out). The controls will be connected inside so they will not come out very far.
Just check to see if anything is disconnected and try operateing the controls with the heat on to see how they work.
Sometimes they just stick or the doors stick. This system is the way the 1991 models worked but since they are the exact same, it should be this way also.
Look it up in some sort of repair manual for more info. I find with these trucks, they don't heat very well using the front vents anyway. I find using the bottom vents work best for heat unless you need defrost.
The "heater" selection will atomatically use the bottom vents, "bi-level" AC will use the front and bottom vents if I remember right and regular AC will automatically use the front vents. For the trouble in removing these controls (the whole dash would need to be removed for repair) I probably would just live with the way they work if they do work atleast properly (enough heat and AC). If you find that you don't get enough heat or AC when in use, check the cooling system for proper operation and blockages/mineral buildup and check the AC system incase it needs recharging or you have leaks.