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1976 Gran Torino motorcraft 2150 2bbl carb. Starts and runs ok at high revs but as choke eases off and revs decrease, engine stalls. Fuel pump OK. Float levels and choke pull off OK. No obvious vacuum leaks. Carby cleaned and jets/needle & seat OK. Feels like runs out of fuel as after stalling, need to pump gas to get to restart. Idle air control valve is small plastic type on air cleaner but has no connecting hoses to/from it??? Has never been connected and used to run OK?? Got me stumped. Any help appreciated.

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  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    starts but wont continue running on an incline. Seems to start and run OK on the level.

  • Anonymous Apr 01, 2014

    Every time I start it the carb. does something different



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Are you sure your idle ports ( size of pinhole) in carb aren't plugged with something? What happens if it starts to die, and you give it a quick squirt of WD-40 , down throat of carb?

Posted on Oct 18, 2008

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I have a FSJ with a Motorcraft 2150,
cold start ok, with LPG work great,
at High RPM all fine, but a slow RPM only if I push the trottle down fast, the engine have esitation, became nute and take time before to start accelleration...

Posted on Sep 01, 2010


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When I start the engine of my Toyota carina ,it runs alright but after moving for about 3 to 4 kilometer, the engine starts junking ,when it's switched off the engine falls to start,but after

wow , 1977 , we dont get 77 cars here ever, they are relics.

a BLAST FROM the pass, (i have 66 and 68 cars,now, so....)

if the engine is good, compression near spec> x4 150PSI min?

The fsm covers all these numbers, so you look them up. ok?

and spark is good.,!

then the carb is bad. fixing 1977 carbs\' (done 100) are very hard.

lacking kits, and good cleaners (illegal here now).

lacking parts, inside, (toy dont sell em;\')

CARB 101:

Stalls only hot?

choke not going to full open hot? fix it or upgrade to manual.

float level wrong,? fix it. (google that)

JET, nozzles and emulsion paths blocked? or loose?

JET main fell out, and is rolling around in bowl?>

fuel pressure too high?, some shade tree used EFI pump:? oops.

fuel pressure too low 1psi, (read toy spec, get it right)

air leaks at the carb base gaskets, or there in intake.

idle set too low?

(bad carb)

how is that,?

Dec 26, 2014 | 1977 Toyota Carina 1.8

1 Answer


2 things. come to mind.
i check the distributor advance works to spec with my timing light (strobe)
if that is ok, its a carb issue.

carbs fail for many reasons, (mostly gummed up inside)
we clean them. that fixes them. (with a kit)
I only have this for symptoms, and is not good.
does the engine have full power up any hill wide open throttle
is the Hesitation only a short time then catches up.
The carb (not stated P/N or brand) has jets, the if gummed up
will cause lean running.
so will any power valve jet.
ever tune it up. new spark pats, rotor all the way to spark plugs.
bad spark , loves to fail under load, that is its , magic.
  1. low float bowl levels.
  2. low fuel pressure causing above,
  3. bad float valve , sticks closed and starts bowl of fuel, causing #1
  4. Gummed up jets.
  5. Gummed up emulsion tubes in carb body.
  6. Choke stuck on, causing flooding,
  7. Choke dead causing hard starts . (stuck open)
  8. power valve clogged.
  9. Highspeed accelerator pump bad, causing only sight hesitation.

my guess? based on 1 word "stall" its #1 to 3 or 6.
black spark plug tips would be #6

or if black sparks, the float valve is stuck open flooding engine and stalling.

we can go for days on carbs. but will not.

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I have a 1991 chevy 1500 pickup that I use to plow my driveway. I replaced the fuel filter because the truck wasn't starting. Truck starts right up now but only stays on for about 5 minutes then

for shore i am a mechanic i know whats wrong you need to drop your gas tank i know its not your pump ok but there is a big leak insided you tank very simple to fix you need a 6 inch piece of fuel line and two clamp take out the fuel pump and replace the piece of fuel line thats on yur fuel pump assembly ok im glad i could help

Nov 12, 2012 | 1991 Chevrolet C1500

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Fuel injection problem

carb needs cleaning, you may have a air leak. spark plugs being fouled up , and might even have timing out. there is 2 jets or more in the carb if there is a problem it can weaken fuel having choke on can give it more air and fuel. depending on model of engine. on fuel in line there will be a filter, very small these can get damaged and let sludge from the tank in. clean out the carb remove it and open it up clean out and you will see brass like screws blow them out with an air line, refit with new seals, you can make them if they not available. or you a sealer thats for fuel.. air lines you can spray them while engine is running and if engine pitch changes that can be were the air leak is.

May 28, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2006 crv 2002 willnot start with turning key willstart with tow or short pushallparts of fuel (diesei)line cleaned pump&inj.test ok engine will turn when key is used key test ok test show lack of fuel...

hi if when engine starts and warms up it then runs ok ? then starts ok rest of day ? considering vehicles age/milage ? have you checked heater glow plugs ? you only need one glow plug to fail/ leak to earth on cyl head and this will knock out/ leak power to earth of all other g/plugs also consider the possibility that the engine coolant sensor ( not the temp sender) has gon faulty this sensor gives ecu signal to provide excess fuel for cold starting on cold starts and auto cuts off as coolant heats up? rather like using choke control on carbs years ago ? also diesels used to have excess fuel device on pumps on trucks in days gone by ? whick assisted in cold starting hope this info helps?

Feb 03, 2010 | 2006 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

1970 CHEVY IMPALA CUSTOM V8 350 eng. carb. rochester 2bbl. chokes itself then dies, a few times seems okay drive few miles then an dies d takes awhile before it starts or have to prime it any...

Sounds like you either have the float level set too high or you have debris getting into the needle and seat. To clear needle, disconnect the fuel line and divert it into a large container and allow the engine to run 'till it runs out of fuel in the carb and stalls. (use a length of rubber fuelline attached to the steel line to do this) Once it stalls, re-connect the line to the carb and re-start engine. The new fuel rushing into the carb shouls clear any debris.
If that fails to work, remove the top half of the carb (you can do that on the car) and check that the float is not adjusted too high and manually clear the needle valve.
I generally remove the stock filter in the inlet and use a larger plastic or metal inline filter in the line itself. Just make sure you locate it somewhere where it won't get really hot or interfere with anything that moves (alt, drivebelt etc).
Needing to prime the carb does not indicate a flooding condition though if it's running out of fuel, while running to empty carb, check the flow rate. It should pump about a half gallon of fuel into the container before it stalls.
Pressure should be about 5-7lbs running. Also check that the line to the tank isn't leaking. If it is, it will **** in air and stall the engine for lack of fuel. The mechanical pump and lines are a very simple system...something I mentioned here has got to help you!
good luck and if you have any follow up questions I'll be happy to help!

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it starts from cold because the auto choke is on ,allowing a richer mixture ,try removing the sender unit in the tank and seeing if the connection from the pump to the outlet connection is ok or leaking causing a loss of fuel pressure

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