I busted one of the front auto locking hubs an have been tryin to repair it but none of the parts dealers show my truck having auto hubs its a 95 F250 all they have are manual locking hubs is it possible to convert auto hubs to manual? also what is better a body lift or suspension lift and is it better to keep the straight pipe or put like a flow master on? last thing someone told me about putting a flood gate on the turbo anyone hear or know anything on that? thanks for any help provided
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Re: ford auto locking hubs
You can convert auto to manual hubs warn hubs or milemarker makes good hubs. As far as lift a suspension lift is better. This really depends on what you want to do with truck. I had a 97 f250 diesel 4x4 and put front leving springs on it and new poly spring bushings and was able to clear 35" tires on factory wheels. The best exhaust upgrade is going to be a new down pipe from turbo to exhaust as far as straight pipe or muffler it depends on personal preference
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Nov 19, 2011 - Uploaded by fixpro256
Ford repair for truck rear door wont open - part 1 of 3 ... Another option (an expensive one): Each latch/cable assembly cost about $180 at the dealer. That is ... This video is only for the upper cable on a F250 but the others are very similar. .... Also works on 1997 1998 2000 2001 2002 2003 - Duration: 18:38.
Nov 15, 2011 - Uploaded by 1A Auto Parts
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/DoorLockActuators/Ford/F250-Truck/... 1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a broken or snapped rear power door .... I used your video to replace all four lock actuators on my Ford F350 ... It locks when it should unlock and unlocks when it should lock!
There are some special 4 tooth and hex sockets for removing the nuts inside the hubs of the truck. YOu can find these at NAPA or maybe AutoZone or Advance. I would go to NAPA because they more than likely have it and also know something about repairing this assembly. Ford uses Dana front end parts and NAPA has original Dana parts in stock... so it is as good as or better than original and they would have the tool for it. Be careful and follow the procedure exactly for putting the front hubs back together. YOU CAN RUIN THE FRONT END OF THE TRUCK IF YOU DO NOT PERFORM THIS SERVICE CORRECTLY. And trust me... many of the idiots working in repair garages do not know how to do these older 4x4 hubs either... ask someone and read the books for the right procedure... some of the older mechanics may show you how to do it. Ask
If you are seeing the front drive shaft turn,Then it is in four wheel drive, Your truck has automatic lock in hubs,The most common problem with Rangers is that the lock in hubs get worn and wont keep the axle engaged to the wheel, If you go to Auto zone they have new lock in hubs for around $50.00 Or you could up grade and get hubs that you manually turn and lock in.
Are you under warranty? Make it the dealers problem if its eligible.
If the front hubs are grinding regardless of being in 2wheel or 4wheel drive it can be the hub bearings which turn regardless. If it grinds only when in 4x4 then the wheel shafts or differential or front driveshaft or transfer case is making the noise because all of these parts move when in 4wheel drive.
Start out with buying yourself a $25 book from the Parts House. The I would go to the front HUBS, secure & safety vehicle before you do anything, Clean, Inspect, Lune & Repair front Hubs as required, get the brakes while you're there. Check your drive line, axles, u-joints etc. Clean , repair , replace as needed. Check for Tranfer case Operation. Is there power going to the front Axle when 4WD is engaged? do you feel a change when you engage the Transfer Case? Have you checked the Power on the circuits? Have you Manual or Auto-locking Front Hubs? Answer all those Questions & read before you do anything.
I have the same hubs on my truck as what you have. I have been told it can be done you just have to know if you have a dana 50 or 60 front axle. The warn hubs i'm sure are a better quality hub but if your worried about the auto feature of your current hubs. That is vacuum accuated when you 4 wheel drive is engaged. And there fore vacuum engaged. Mine used to work great but after a lot of mudding sand got into seals and vacuum didn't work anymore so i treat them as free/lock hubs.
There are two parts to the auto-locking hubs. Inner and outer. Both of them have small tabs on each of the 'cams'. Chances are, they are broken off on the outer hub. When you clean them up real good, you can see them. I believe when the axles turn the outer hub, the inner and outer cams push against spring pressure and lock the unit to the wheel hub. These hubs will break when engaged at higher speeds, especially on a dry tar road.