Rebuild dw708 any tips on replacing bearing on armature of dw708?

if the bearing is on the armature shaft
pull the armature from the case and place the armature in a vise (free) with a flap bar on either side under the bearing across the jaws of the vice
use a soft hammer and hit on the end of the shaft driving the armature down and out of the bearing
get a friend to help to hold the plates and the armature

I don't know the exact model but have you got the spacer that goes behind the fan and kisses up to the bearing in the case? This is why there's no clearance. You say you are rebuilding it, can you run through what you've taken apart, how deep you've gone? If you go online and search Delphi alt's you may be able to find a cross section drawing that shows the position's, or a parts list would show them in order.

no GL4 lube in tranny.
the magic $3 plastic tip on shifter is worn to dust.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html

replace part 27 (25551xxxx)
when this fails it hard to hits gears, and also alows the shifter to bounce wildly till it bumps out of gear.
if not that, its serious. (bearings and or synchro rings, dogs)

v6 have 4 main bearing sets and 6 big end bearing sets
v8 have 5 main bearing sets and 8 bigend sets
5 cylinder inline will have 6 main bearing sets and 5 big end set
It appears that some where you are short a set of bearings Check that the rebuild kit is for your engine

In most cases it is the "Bendix" or the over-running clutch, depending on what the part is called by your mechanics, parts stores, and garages locally.
I really like the pictures you show.
In your picture, you show the "business end" of the starter, or that end which fits inside the transmission housing that you normally do not see when the starter is bolted properly in place.
If you will look at your picture, you will see a tiny gear about 1 & 1/2 inches in diameter. This is the problem part, except that this gear is a part of the part called the "Bendix" or the over-running clutch.
You will be needing to take the starter all apart on your workbench and replace that part, which should cost you 10-30 dollars.
That gear itself is not the problem, it is the spring behind it most likely, or the Bendix is perhaps sticking on the central shaft and not returning due to dirt or rust. You will see when you dismantle it.
When you get the starter apart, go ahead and "rebuild" it!
Start with the solenoid.
Carefully take it apart, and take a piece of fine sandpaper and clean the copper round plunger, about the shape of a mushroom. You might also gently clean the contacts inside that touch the plunger.
If your solenoid has soldered connectors, skip this step.
Now dismantle the starter itself, remembering the brushes require some fancy finagling to get them back on the armature! ( Like using some paper clips to hold the brushes in their pockets to get the armature back into position).
You should clean the copper part of the armature with that fine sandpaper. That part of the armature is called the commutator.
Be really gentle here, and replace the brushes if they are worn way down. If you have a car parts store available, ask to see new brushes, to tell how much yours are worn.
I recommend you pack the bronze bearing inside the end cap of the started with a half-thimble full of good grease, and also grease the end of the armature that fits into the bronze bushing on the "business end" that goes inside the transmission housing.
(Have a good look at both the bronze bushings, to be sure neither is badly worn. The also are replaceable for a few $s.)

The splines are on the inboard end of your axles. These need to match the "spider" gears as they are splined also.
Normally, a rebuild consists of all new bearings, but if you are replacing the spider gears also, just keep the same spline number of what's in it.
Note, replacing carrier bearing, watch closely for the shims, and keep them where they were. Also, mark your carrier bearing caps as to wher they were. And finally, if you do the pinion bearings, you need to set pre-load, and back lash!!!

OK the starter has bushings in either end of the starter which the armature rides in, if those bearings are worn out the armature will drag on the fields and wont start the starter will need to be replaced

You are looking at region of $150 and labour on top. I am putting a tip together on starters in general that I include herein. When you get your motor off it could be helpful and save you some money in the process:-

Dead...? Sticky solenoid due to corrosion or glued up lubricant and dirt ? dismantle and rub clean with some emery paper. Worn starter motor armature brushes ? strike motor body with end of a piece of timber whilst cranking; the jolt may encourage enough contact to get the starter motor running for long enough for ignition to occur. ? For a permanent fix dismantle the starter motor and replace the carbon brushes. Corrosion in the starter motor body between the steel jacket and aluminium gear casting.? insert self tapping screw between the two parts to bridge the corrosion? For a permanent fix remove motor and strip down and wire brush components back to the metal and then reassemble.

Click, click, click ...occasional start Worn contact plates in solenoid failing to provide high current to energize the starter motor windings? dismantle solenoid and replace copper contact plates and plunger ring (readily available as an inexpensive overhaul kit).

Wahr, wahr, warh...laboured motor Worn bronze bearings on the ends of the starter motor are allowing the armature to run off centre and grind against the surrounding field magnets on the inside of the motor body? dismantle motor and replace the bronze bearings (inexpensive fix). Over-drawing motor - high current is drawn but this is not translated into effective turning effort by the motor. The field magnet windings have begun to short out, probably as a result of age or through over use in constantly trying to start a poorly igniting engine ? replace/ exchange the starter motor as the field windings of the stator magnets on the motor body are fried and beyond repair. Wheeeeeeee ..no start Although engaged fully with the flywheel a slipping pinion gear clutch means that the motor is ineffectual at turning the engine over ? remove the starter motor and replace the pinion gear on the end of the starter motor shaft

Lottery start...occasional no start

• The motor occasionally refuses to turn first time and has a defined rhythmic pulse when turning over - this is due to either burnt out armature coil or the contact face of the armature has become badly pitted causing the brush to miss making contact.

? - replace/ exchange the starter motor as armature windings are beyond repair.

the armature inside the starter swells up when hot preventing the starter to rotate. When cool it does work I know. I had rebuilt starters for a living for 5 years. The field surrounding the armature are magnets so I SUGGEST TO REPLACE THE STARTER INSTEAD
Back in the good old days the armature could be filed down so the starter would operate for years to come. Not so now with magnets in them replacing the old copper fieids. The magnets get weaker as time goes by so the starter is not worth rebuilding

In order to change the brushes inside the blower motor, it needs to be removed and taken apart. The problem with changing them is that often the armature is worn and the shaft bearings are bad, making a brush replacement a temporary repair at best. The other item worth noting is that you likely will have difficulty locating any new brushes or bearings unless you live near an electric motor rebuilding shop. Perhaps the best option for you is to get a rebuilt or new replacement from a reliable source, or get another unit from a scrapyard.