How do you replace a passenger side control arm ?

The rubber gets hard and makes noise. Wash the rubber blades in vinegar, that's supposed to soften the rubber.Hope this helps.

Usual method,Pull the cotter pin and use 2 open end wrenches,on top of each other to increase the contact area and pull slowly.The nut should come off.
2nd method,use a sharp air chisel and split the nut apart.
3rd method,shield the CV boot and heat the nut or cut it off flush with a torch.
4th method,freeze the nut with 134a and then remove it with the 2 wrenches.
5th method,Cut across it at an angle with an air cut off tool
down to the ball joint threads to release the nut pressure then remove it with one wrench.
Do you need more methods?

Sounds like a bad bushing. Could be the brake strut rods (going from the lower control arm near the tires, up to the front of the frame near the radiator, the bushing is at the front. Or could be bushings on one or both of the control arms.Or it could be as simple as the wheel alignment shims have fallen out.

Best bet is to raise the front end on jackstands and carefully compare left and right sides, looking for any differences in rubber bushings or such where each suspension member attaches to the frame. If it is NOT the control arm that attaches to the coil spring, you can, if you have the tools and the ambition, remove the control arm yourself. The bushings are pressed in, so you can take the control arm to a machine shop (ask your auto parts store where to go) and have them press the new bushings in. You really should do both sides (left and right control arms) at the same time. You will need to get an alignment when you are done.

If you don't have the tools, knowledge, and ambition to do this yourself (it is not terribly complicated but it is difficult, and you have to have the right tools) then take it to a trustworthy repair shop. It's been years since I've had this done, but I'd guess it will cost around $300 for a shop to fix.

I'd suggest getting of a Haynes or Chilton's manual at your public library.
You have to take the control arm off, which the book says is about 1.9 hours for an upper on one side, or 3.5 both sides, for a professional mechanic, so you might want to double that time if you are not a pro. This includes removing the control arms and doing the bushings. You'll need a tool to Disconnect the ball joint and you'll also need an alignment. Installing the new bushings don't seem to require a tool. Parts seem to be about $25 per side + alignment of course.

Hi, to make the process much more simple you will need to rent, buy, barrow a ball joint press. this tool set will make the job 10 times easier. you can rent these sets from advance auto parts and return them to get all of your money back, its pretty nifty. with the tool you will be able to press the ball joint out and back in. first and foremost put the cars subframe on a jackstand so the car doesnt fall on you in the middle of the job. next remove the cotter pin out of the ball joint and tie rod nuts. then remove the tie rod end nut and remove the tie rod from the spindle, then remove the ball joint nut and separate the lower control arm by prying the control arm down, then use a bungee cord to hold the strut/spindle out of the way, then use the ball joint tool to remove and replace the ball joint. Putting it back together is just the reverse of taking it apart.

The vent actuator door may have gone bad and needs to be replaced. The common problem is not the motor but the actuator gears crack and break, but try to reset the actuator buy disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it first, but make sure the radio is turned off before you do that. If the actuator lost it's position, this procedure will reset the actuator's position if it's lost and don't know where to turn the vent doors.

This is how to replace drivers side or the passenger side actuator. Passenger side difference is noted at end of this letter. My 2000-2005 Chevy Impala driver side climate control was stuck on cold, no matter where I switched it to. The light on the panel was also out. Resetting by disconnecting the battery did not work. I had to buy and replace the drivers side actuator (Part Number 15844096 - $38.46 at Chevy dealer). The passenger side actuator is also the exact same part number. They are both located under the dash, about equal height as the climate control knobs. Make sure you disconnect the positive cable on the battery before removing the switch. Drivers side actuator is accessed by removing the bottom dash cover on the drivers side. Two easy clips to disconnect the dash cover, remove the floor courtesy light by twisting, and the cover comes right out. The drivers side actuator is harder to work on than the passenger side, due to room. But I replaced my actuator with only having to take off the bottom dash cover. There are two screws holding the actuator on. I used a 1/4 hand driver with a 3" extension, a 1/4 universal joint for the 1/4 socket (and the universal is needed), and a 7/32" socket. These were the only tools I needed. After unscrewing the two screws, I pulled the actuator off of a small arm it is connected to which switches the flap for the climate control system between hot or cold. I then was able to let it hang down, and disconnected the wire running to the actuator. Room was an issue, and I did some of this by feel. Now comes the tricky part. The new actuator has to slide back on the small arm, but it is flat on two sides, with rounded ends. The new actuator has to match the flat ends to the same position as the old actuator. I hooked the wire onto the new actuator, and let it hang down. I held the old actuator up by it, and had my wife hold the battery connector to the battery to get power. The new actuator will rotate when the connection is made, and stopped rotating when I had my wife pull the connector from the battery. It took a couple tries, but I finally got it to stop at the same position as the old actuator. I then lined up the new switch, and got it on the control arm. This took a few minutes and tries, as I had to do it by feel. I then put the two screws back in and tightened them down. Again, tricky due to room. Once done, I put the cover back on, reconnected battery, and warmed up the car. Was very happy to find that I now had heat on the drivers side, as Canadian weather is cold this time of year.
The whole job took me about an 1 1/2 hour to do.
Also, note if you have to replace the passenger side actuator, you need to remove the passenger side bottom cover on the dash. You then remove the glove compartment door by removing the five screws on the bottom of the door. Slide the whole glove compartment door out of the car. You will be happy to know you have much more room to replace the passenger side actuator, so it should be much easier and quicker than the drivers side.

Good luck and you may want to inspect the passenger side actuator also.

Hub should not come apart...it needs to be replaced. Drive out whats left of it however you can. be careful not to beat up opening or it may give you trouble re-installing. U joint comes apart just like those on any driveshaft...There isn't enough room for grease fitting when assembled so get grease in before putting back in car. Control arm bushings should have no play.

The cap pulls off, try to pry it with a screwdriver. then set the arm where it needs to be and tighten the nut under the cap. This is common, the nut usually just loosens.

no special tool needed

It would probably be a good idea to just replace all the bushings while youre at it. car has a few miles on it and there may be a noticeable differance from one side to the other in terms of handling if you just do one side. Just do it now and get it over with.