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Re: 360 ci Dodge Rear Main Bearing Seal Replacement
Yes ,regardless of which seal is used as you have to loosen main bearings so the crank can be moved down as the seals are crush type and you wont have the clearance to fit the new one,Split seals (2 piece)are the easiest to fit without moving the crank too much.The one piece seal also means trans removal.As far as removing trans completely you may be able to move it back while its being held up by a trolley jack and only pull it back far enough to give you the clearance needed.Autos are far easier than manuals.If its the rope type seal a special tool is used to fit them and its not a tool that is sold just anywhere as that type of seal kept noahs ark from sinking and havnt been used in engines for many many years.
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I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't have to remove the engine/transmission, split the trans from the engine, remove the TC or clutch/pressure plate, (you should have drained engine oil and auto trans oil before doing this), remove the oil pan, remove the rear most main bearing cap, rotate a new seal into place, replace rear main bearing cap, torque, etc. and reassemble.
Worst case you may have to remove harmonic balancer and front timing chain cover, front seal, release all the connecting rod caps and main bearing caps, remove the crankshaft, replace the rear main seal and reassemble. It's a 1966 engine...you should consider replacing the front timing chain with a roller chain as well as rod and main bearing inserts if you have to do all this.
check first in the workshop manual if it is a one piece seal or two piece seal. If it is a one piece seal then the gear box and flywheel have to come off. If it is two piece then the gear box has to come out and the sump has to come off so that the rear main bearing can be removed.
Remove the oil pan. Remove the rear main bearing cap. Loosen the other main bearing caps. Using a special tool that resembles a chinese finger lock pull out the top part of the seal. It's a "rope" seal. Install the new seal in the block and the cap. Replace rear cap, torque all the main bearing caps to spec. Reinstall the pan. This job is pretty big for a novice - I don't recommend you try unless you have unlimited patience.
I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?
Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
Remove the starter.
Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface.
Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
The Rear main seal on a Cherokee with the 4.0L is a 2-piece seal and the transmission doesn't have to be pulled. You have to remove the oil pan and rear main cap. That's it. The transmission doesn't have to be removed. Hope this helps.
While you have the transmission removed be sure to replace the rear main bearing seal.On a1982 you will have to remove the oil pan to replace the seal,It has a two piece seal.After removal of the oil pan carefully remove the back main bearing cap,you will have to use a straight pick to roll the top seal out of the block.Lubricate the deal with oil before you install it.Be sure to get a new oil pan gasket with your other parts.Make sure you torque your main bearing cap to manufacturer's specifications.
Wrong. just remove the oil pan, exhaust downpipe and O2 sensor, and starter. take off the crank bearing brace and finally remove the rear main bearing cap. half the seal will be in the cap and half you push out from around the crank with a small brass punch so as not to damage the crank pull out with needle nose pliers and slide the new one in ( noting that oil should go on the mating surface of the crank and liquid dish soap on the outside of the upper seal). rtv the lower seals wings (top and bottom) and reinstall. rear main cap 80ft.lbs i believe, 35ft.lbs for the bearing brace. or just follow this tutorial with pics http://dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811
did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
is it warped ?? ( bent )
because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
here is how to remove the crank shaft. REMOVAL
Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.
Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
Immediately install the oil Dan.
if you have an email address i can send some images