Question about 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse

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Removing is there any bolts that i have to take out from the fly wheel to the engine 1.8 non-t or is it a rod

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Yess, there are about 6 bolts holding the torque converter to flywheel. Thats for autotransmission.
These bolts can be accessed by loosening the a plate located under the engine close to the oil pan

For manual transmission it's a rod as you put it it (shaft)

Thanks

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

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Remove flywheel


Hi Rebecca, this is a general rule of thumb because I don't even know what your car looks like because we don't have then in Australia. First you have to separate the engine from transmission, rear wheel drive just remove tailshaft and gearbox, in front wheel drive and some 4X4 it may be easier to remove the engine. when they are separated everything falls into line, remove the clutch pressure plate remembering to undo the bolts evenly so as to prevent distorting the pressure plate, then using a rattle gun remove the 19mm bolts in the centre of the fly wheel in sequence 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 6. then wriggle the fly wheel loose, do not prise loose in case you bend it. when refitting the bolts only go in 1 position, this is due to bolt spacings to assist with engine balance, have fun

Jan 05, 2014 | Chrysler Pacifica Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How does one remove the sump from the Rocam engine of a 2005 Ford Bantam pickup?


    1.Loosen the wheel nuts on both front wheels
    2.Raise the front of the vehicle, both sides
    3.Removes the front wheels
    4.Remove the both side ball joint bolts and lift the suspension of the ball joint using a steel bar or similar,
    5.Remove both inner cv joints from the vehicle
    6.Remove the battery and the plastic battery housing;
    7.Remove the air intake pipe
    8.Drain the oil from the sump
    9.Remove the resonator from the gearbox, hydraulic hose from the gearbox, reverse gear switch, speedo cable.
    10.Remove the two bell housing bolts on the top (next to the cylinder head). Take one bolt to a local tools and hardware and source the exact thread bolt but buy bolts that are approx 5/6cm longer - buy 5 bolts to be safe. Replace the two bolts removed with the longer ones.
    11.Remove the starter motor and power cables;
    12.Remove the bolt above the starter motor and insert a long bolt here
    13.Next remove all bolts mounting the sump,
    14.At the back of the engine (side where the manifold is) remove all bolts and insert one long bolt. Note none of the long bolts should be mounted into the oil pan (sump).
    15.Use a support bar to support the engine and gearbox assembly (I made one using a steel pipe and bolted this onto the engine strut bolts;
    16.Using a 17 socket and long extension remove the gearbox mounting (3 nuts), Lower the gearbox side of the engine so that the mounting bolts clear the engine mounting;
    17.Insert a large screw driver or similar between the engine and gearbox assembly and separate them (note most gearbox will separate itself);
    18.You will notice a +/- 4 to 5 cm space between but the gearbox and engine is still joined together by the longer bolts.
    19.Using a long 8mm "t" socket as shown below, insert this between the fly wheel and onto the sump bolt (x2) and remove them. Using a normal 8mm spanner / socket remove all other sump bolts. The sump can now be removed from the vehicle.
    20.[Information for using a 8mm special tool: note that the Gedore 8mm or similar will not work between the fly wheel and sump]. I had bought a cheap small 8mm socket {it comes 8mm, 10mm and 12mm in a three way small socket - cost about R12} I cut off the 8mm from this and joined a long steel rod to it and also a handle which made is a "special" T socket spanner, similar to the image below.
    21.Install in reverse order as described above.

one-remove-sump-from-rocam-engine-2005-j5ekklqbg0r4og3swv24qsbc-4-0.png

May 13, 2013 | 2005 Ford Bantam 1.3i

3 Answers

How do i remove the oil pump


    1.Loosen the wheel nuts on both front wheels
    2.Raise the front of the vehicle, both sides
    3.Removes the front wheels
    4.Remove the both side ball joint bolts and lift the suspension of the ball joint using a steel bar or similar,
    5.Remove both inner cv joints from the vehicle
    6.Remove the battery and the plastic battery housing;
    7.Remove the air intake pipe
    8.Drain the oil from the sump
    9.Remove the resonator from the gearbox, hydraulic hose from the gearbox, reverse gear switch, speedo cable.
    10.Remove the two bell housing bolts on the top (next to the cylinder head). Take one bolt to a local tools and hardware and source the exact thread bolt but buy bolts that are approx 5/6cm longer - buy 5 bolts to be safe. Replace the two bolts removed with the longer ones.
    11.Remove the starter motor and power cables;
    12.Remove the bolt above the starter motor and insert a long bolt here
    13.Next remove all bolts mounting the sump,
    14.At the back of the engine (side where the manifold is) remove all bolts and insert one long bolt. Note none of the long bolts should be mounted into the oil pan (sump).
    15.Use a support bar to support the engine and gearbox assembly (I made one using a steel pipe and bolted this onto the engine strut bolts;
    16.Using a 17 socket and long extension remove the gearbox mounting (3 nuts), Lower the gearbox side of the engine so that the mounting bolts clear the engine mounting;
    17.Insert a large screw driver or similar between the engine and gearbox assembly and separate them (note most gearbox will separate itself);
    18.You will notice a +/- 4 to 5 cm space between but the gearbox and engine is still joined together by the longer bolts.
    19.Using a long 8mm "t" socket as shown below, insert this between the fly wheel and onto the sump bolt (x2) and remove them. Using a normal 8mm spanner / socket remove all other sump bolts. The sump can now be removed from the vehicle.
    20.[Information for using a 8mm special tool: note that the Gedore 8mm or similar will not work between the fly wheel and sump]. I had bought a cheap small 8mm socket {it comes 8mm, 10mm and 12mm in a three way small socket - cost about R12} I cut off the 8mm from this and joined a long steel rod to it and also a handle which made is a "special" T socket spanner, similar to the image below.
    Once the sump is off you will be able to remove the oil pump
    21.Install in reverse order as described above.

remove-oil-pump-j5ekklqbg0r4og3swv24qsbc-4-0.png

Dec 10, 2012 | 2005 Ford Bantam 1.3i

1 Answer

Hoow to set up the timing belt


What do you mean by drive belt. If your talking about the serpentine belt, it should have an auto tensioner. Same goes for the timing belt. There is no adjustment. If the belt is loose then it needs to be replaced.
Replacing timing belt,Sienna 1998:
1.Disconnect battery (-) cable and plastic wiper washer cowl assembly
2.Remove spark plugs and put all wirings,cables out of the way
3.Drain coolant (cold) and remove upper hose
4.remove front right tire and wheel plastic fender apron
5.jack up engine under oil pan with rubber,towel or wood slightly
6.remove right engine support rod and its bracket
7.remove all drive belts.Examine condition;Label if re-using
8.remove plastic upper timing belt cover & gasket
9.remove crankshaft pulley bolt-use the ff. methods: a.air impact wrench or Toyota Special service tool-best b.chain wrench on pulley then breaker bar/socket on bolt-good c.open fly wheel cover,jam screwdriver on gear teeth then unbolt-tough d.breaker bar/socket on bolt, jam bar tip on floor, lower car then "start" engine -smart
10.remove pulley by hand or use carefully 2 prybars then remove plastic lower T.B.coverand gasket
11.reinstall bolt and turn engine clockwise to align timing marks:one on each camshaft sprocket and one on the crankshaft sprocket
12.remove T.B. tensioner spring-2 bolts loosen alternately then keep upright
13.remove crankshaft sprocket guard then the sprocket, then the belt.
14.Examine belt condition for damage and correct cause of damage if any
15.remove idler T.B.pulleys & check for smooth operation/contamination/leak
16.check all oil seals, water pump leaks,etc
17.Check T.B.tensioner spring for oil leak and tension by pressing push rod against hard object-there should be no movement or leak
18.Compress push rod using vise, align rod hole with outer hole then insert small nail, pin or wire to keep it there then reinstall along with other parts removed
19.Install T.B.carefully.No twist, stretch,prying ,oil, moisture, bending
20.Handturn engine 720 deg.clockwise, feel for resistance , and then see timing marks still re-align
21.Reinstall plastic covers and gaskets,drive belts.etc in reverse order 21.


Hope this helps.

Mar 02, 2011 | 1998 Toyota Sienna

2 Answers

Torque settings for 2005 lancer es fly wheel gearbox etc


2.0L Evolution engine

flywheel bolts 132 =/- 5 N.m. 98 +/- 3 ft lbs.

transmission to engine bolts 48 +/- 6 N.m. 36 +/- 4 ft lbs.

2.0L Non- Evolution engine

flywheel bolts 98 +/-5 N.m. 72 +/- 3 ft lbs.

transmission to engine bolts 48 +/- 6 N.m. 36 +/- 4 ft lbs.

2.4L Ralliart engine

flywheel bolts 132 +/- 5 N.m. 98 +/- 3 ft lbs.

transmission to engine bolts 48 +/- 6 N.m. 36 +/- 4 ft lbs.

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2 Answers

When I pulled the engine in my 1994 Ford Van 4.9 Straight 6 the torque converter came out too. How do I get it off the engine?


There are bolts in between the flywheel and the engine.There should be four,you will have to turn the flywheel to get to the bolts,the converter should have been un bolted before removing the engine

May 12, 2010 | 1994 Ford Econoline

1 Answer

How can unlock the engine


IF ENGINE SEIZED IT NEED TO BE REPLACED.IF ENGINE LOCKED WHERE YOU CANT TURN IT TO REMOVE IT FROM TRANSMISSION.YOU PROBABLY HAVE TO REMOVE OIL PAN LOOSEN ALL ROD AND BEARING CAPS BOLTS JUST ENOUGH TO WHERE THE ENGINE WILL TURN ENOUGH TO REMOVE FLY WHEEL BOLTS. FROM TRANSMISSION.

Nov 01, 2009 | 1995 Ford Escort

2 Answers

How do i change the starter on a 96 century


If it's the 3.1 or the newer 3100 the starter should just be a couple 13 and 15mm bolts. Plus the nut for the cable. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

How to unbolt torque converter on a 1kzte engine and to remove engine


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