Question about 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

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1997 light duty 4x4 f250 torsion bar removal

I have removed the adjustment bolts but still can not remove cross member or torsion bars

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Nissan Frontier torsion bar replacement

well it depends how you want to adjust it, if you want to lower it, back out the screw on the torsion key a couple of turns. raise, screw it in a couple of turns

Posted on May 29, 2008

RJones1125
  • 373 Answers

SOURCE: How to install trunk lid torsion bars

one of those bars come out of its bracket ( on my 89 cougar)
none of the local shops would touch it, no even the body shops.
so i just connect one end to the lid, like normal, then with a pry bar, pryed out the other end and put in a small block of wood (two by four) then released the pry bar. took another bite pryed it out again then added another block until i got the desired spring back into the torsion rod. yes that's (jury rigged) but my trunk works almost like it should. if you need i can send you a picture of what i did.

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: How to install trunk lid torsion bars

HOW TO INSTALL TRUNK STRUTS ON A LEXUS SC400 1995

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: want to change torsion bar keys

The torsion keys are supposed to give 2-3" additional drop vs.the "free" method. I know adjusting the torsion bars kills the ride but how bad is it and how far can you go???

Believe, 15/16 socket would be the correct size. Also, be aware that they are probably pretty rusted and VERY hard to turn at first. Air tools do no good, so you'll need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a long pole to put on the end. This is the fastest way to get the torque you need to break those suckers loose. 

I suggest measure and writing down the height about 3-5 spots on each side, whether it be the frame, body, or whatever. Crank each side a few FULL thread turns, then measure again. Once you get about the height you want, measure both side to make sure they're equal. After that, it's best to get a full alignment as some of the suspension will now be at different angles (of course).

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

honeymokey
  • 3113 Answers

SOURCE: The trunk lid torsion bar has broken so the lid no longer stays open. Very dangerous. Any assistance? Thanks

Replace with a new or used one.

Posted on May 05, 2009

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1 Answer

How do I adjust the torsion bars on my 4wd 1994 toyota pickup?


On the end of the bar in the chassis cross member you will see a cast arm and a big bolt and a lock nut . By undoing the lock nut and turning the bolt you apply extra torsion or less torsion on the rod . I f you do not have enough adjustment in the bolt then jack up the front of the vehicle so that there is no load on the bars . Remove any retaining clips and reposition the cast bar on a different spline . The closer to the cross member means extra torsion on the bar when the vehicle is lowered to the floor. and you can increase that load by screwing in the bolt to push the cast arm away from the cross member.. If you want to raise the vehicle then repeat the jacking steps and use a pair of stilsens ( pipe pliers) and twist the bar away from the cross member before replacing the cast part. That puts load on the bar even before lowering it down and so the body will sit higher. ONE VERY IMPORTANT NOTE USE QUALITY CAR JACKS BEFORE GOING UNDER THE VEHICLE AS THE WORK BEING DONE WILL PULL THE VEHICLE OF THE JACK AND PERSONAL INJURY WILL OCCUR.

Mar 18, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

In a 2000 ford expedition does the cross member under the transfer case need to be removed? to take the transfer case out . if so how do I remove the bars attach to it ?


First you need to measure the height from the ground to the frame on each side on level ground. Write those numbers down. If you follow the torsion bars to the crossmember, you will see arms or levers attached to them. Counter clockwise will lower them. Remove the bolts, then the torsion bars then the crossmember.

Aug 21, 2013 | 2000 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

What is the torson bar on jimmy and where can you get the part for it?


1995-2005 Models NOTE: The following procedure requires the use of the torsion bar unloader tool No. J-36202 or equivalent.
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the transmission shield, if equipped.
  3. Install a torsion bar unloader tool to relax the tension on the torsion bar adjusting arm screw; record the number of turns necessary to properly install the tool. Remove the adjusting screw and the unloader tool.
  4. Unfasten the lower link mount nut from one side, then disengage the torsion bars. NOTE: Note the direction of the forward end and side of the torsion bar being removed
  5. Remove the lower link nut from the opposite side.
  6. Remove the lower link mount, upper link mount nut, upper link mount and then unfasten the torsion bar from the frame.
To Install:
  1. Install the torsion bar and support.
  2. Install the upper link mount and mount nut.
    • Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) on 1995-96 models and 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) on 1997 and later models.
  3. Place a jack under the torsion bar to release tension, then install the lower link mount bushing and nut.
    • Tighten the nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) on 1995 models, 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) on 1996-98 models and 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1999 and later models.
  4. Install the torsion bar unloader tool and tighten the tool against the adjusting arm the same number turns recorded earlier, then remove the tool. This loads the torsion bars.
  5. Install the transmission shield, if removed.
  6. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
  7. Check and adjust the Z height as outlined in the wheel alignment portion of this section.
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Jul 08, 2010 | 1997 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Torsion Bar Adjustment


Remember if you do five turns on the right side do five turns on the left side.
First, get both front wheels off the ground (jack the truck up from the frame). Look underneath, at the tortion bar and follow it back to the cross member. Recessed inside that cross member is the adjuster. Turn the bolt clockwise to raise truck. After five turns on both bolts let the truck down and see how much space is between the lower control arm and the rubber stopper. You should see about an inch. The upper control arm should not touch the frame and as well, there should be about an inch of space there too.

May 12, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

On a 2002 isuzu trooper 3.5 V6 with auto and 4wheel drive do i need to remove engine to pull oil pan? i have a loud banging in motor and need to check crankshaft & bearings


Yes, you need to pull the engine to remove the oil pan. This requires that you remove the propeller shafts and the third cross member to slide the transmission toward the rear of the vehicle. I suggest you purchase a service manual before you start this process. More than likely the rod bearing for cylinder 1 has failed. This seems to be a common problem with later model 3.5L Trooper engines because the oil pump and oil gallery do not deliver oil as efficiently to the number 1 rod bearing.

Apr 26, 2010 | 2002 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Knocking coming from under the extended cab from


There called torsion bar mount bushings, and will cost about $34.00 for both of them. Parts Source.

Jack up RH side of truck, crawl under LH side
  • 1 Remove nut from torsion bar mount stud that secures the mount to the cross-member. You'll have to feel for it, you won't be able to see it from below.
  • 2 Remove bottom two bolts. Easy, they're in plain view from below. Now the mount is free.
  • 3 Push up on cross member, remove old mount.
  • 4 Insert new mount - push up on cross member, slip mount in between frame and cross member. Drop hole in cross member over the stud.
  • 5 Loose assemble nut and two bolts. Torque down once other side is done.
Now over to the passenger side
  • 6 Jack up driver side of truck
  • 7 Repeat steps 1 and 2
  • 8 To get the mount out, try pushing up on the cross member, just like the driver side. If it comes out, great. I couldn't get the cross member up high enough on mine. I used a big screwdriver and ripped it out by separating the rubber from the metal plate. It came out in pieces.
  • 9 Install new mount. If you didn't have trouble getting the old one out, you probably won't have a problem getting the new one in. As I said, I did. I couldn't raise the cross member high enough to slip it in. Solution: whack 3/8" off the stud. You'll still have plenty left for the nut.
  • 10 Reinstall nut & bolts, torque down.
  • 11 Remove jack, Torque down drives side.
Good luck. The TRW's are one-piece urethane, (I think) and came with a lifetime guarantee. They'll probably outlast the vehicle.

Nov 15, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

How do you replace a rear passenger side torison bar on an oldsmoblie alero 1999


SAFELY RAISE AND SUPPORT REAR OF CAR ON JACK STANDS. REMOVE THE TORSION BAR TO KNUCKLE BOLT WASHER AND BUSHING.REMOVE TORSION BAR TO CHASSIS BOLT.REMOVE BAR FROM THE CHASSIS.TO INSTALL.INSTALL TORSION BAR TO THE CHASSIS TORQUE THE NUT / BOLT TO 48 FT LBS.PLUS ADDITIONAL 120 DEGREE TURN.TORSION BAR TO THE KNUCKLE TORQUE THE BOLT TO 51 FT LBS.

Sep 24, 2009 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

97 f150 4x4 tosion bar removal


You could but you may need the torsion bar adjuster tool. I am sure you can get by without it on this truck. Make sure you have a good jack that goes pretty high and some jack stands. Hammer back if you need some directions.

Jun 11, 2009 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

2002 ford f150 4x4 manual trany want to remove transfer case do iunbolt it from the front or back side of mount


i just did this on my 04 f150 heritage 4x4 manual... first you have to remove the rear cross member where the torsion bars are adjusted at... not sure what you mean by the side mount, but there are i believe six bolts that hold the transfer case to the tranny... 3 on the right, and 3 on the left, the upper right and left are difficult to get to... it makes it easy if you remove the forward drive shaft first and there should be some cable and fuel brackets on top of the tranny back by the transfer case that you could remove to... once you take those bolts out, transfer case should slide right off... let me know if there is anything else i can help with...

Jan 17, 2009 | 2002 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Crossmember mount nuts


This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder.
Tools and Materials Required

Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred
2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum
Breaker bar, 1/2" drive
Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets
Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm
Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc.
2-lb. sledgehammer
3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool
Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal
Torsion bar tensioning tool
Penetrating oil, as required
Chassis grease, as required
High pressure thread lubricant, as required
Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired
Gloves and eye protection
Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack.

Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts.
With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground.
Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants.
Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on.
Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later.
Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set.
Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused.
Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember.
Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt.
Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one.
When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side).
Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart.
Remove the tool.
Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember.
On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember.
Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it.
Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount.
Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach.
With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar.
Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet.
Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled.
Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar.
From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble.
Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember.
Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place.
Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened.
Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt.
Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s).
Completely lower coach.
Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it.

Jun 23, 2008 | 2004 Ford F250

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