Question about Chevrolet Suburban
Drain and flush the system..Alot of time the stearing fluid and break fluid are the same materials
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2000 Alero power steering pump
Air in lines. Start car and turn full left and full right several times. then let it sit till the foam is gone and top off the fluid and repeat.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
The most obvious places are the Power steering rack itself - at each end, and the hoses that are attatched to it.
A leak at the pump is easily spotted.
Hoses are cheaper to replace than seals on the rack (which may require a new unit)
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
The power steering container is at the front of the engine on drivers (left) side. Unscrew the lid and check the level add some if low.If that don't help then replace p s pump.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
2006 f350 crew 4x4. Replaced p/s pump,booster,put gauges to check pressure? Fluid clean, lifted in air to check steering linkage and turning without load. Still baffled ! I work at a Ford dealer and mechanics said its normal. Thats BS! I replaced the p/s pump so im guessing the screen was new with the pump. I will check for the hell of it. I have a feeling it is suspension under load. The symptom on this truck is not turning when brake applied. Also hard turning when vehicle is on and in park,wont turn.
Posted on Apr 10, 2010
This is a very common issue with this car.The problem of the Ford Taurus spewing powersteering fluid out of the cap is caused by a loose nut on the passenger side of the steering rack. This not only allows fluid to leak past and fill the rubber boots up on the tie rods/steering rack, (the right hand side fills too, because of an air vent equalizer tube that connects both sides), but it also allows the system to **** air which causes the foaming and spewing from the pumps cap/dip stick.
The cure is to jack up and secure the car, remove the passenger front wheel.
There is a rubber accordian style boot on the tie rod end. Use a super long flat screwdriver to pry under the far side clamp that secures it to the inner part of the rack and break it off. Now use a pliers to squeeze the smaller clamp on the side closest to you and slide it off and all the way to the end towards you.
Slide the whole rubber boot as far as you can towards you so you can see the large round nut that is inside the end of the rack. You'll know this is the problem when fluid pours out of the boot.
The tie rod goes through the center of this nut. The nut has four holes around it on the face of it. I assume they used a spanner tool to install this at the factory, but there's no room for a tool while the rack is on the car, so you'll have to manufacture a long instrument yourself.
I purchased about a 3 foot long narrow metal rod from a hardware store, then I used an angle grinder to shape one end of it into a blunt cone shape that would fit into one of the holes. It's awkward to do, but using it on all angles avoiding the brake line and wheel rotor you can tighten this nut by hitting the rod with a hammer. The nut will turn about 1/8th of a turn, then re-angle your rod into the next hole above the one you just did tightening the nut to the right (clockwise).
The nut on my car was loose by three full turns. The driver's side of the rack has a different setup, you don't need to try that side, the passenger side is the only side that is affected. Once you have this nut good and tight, I used a zip tie to clamp the big end of the rubber boot back on the rack, then pushed the rest of the accordian boot back into it's original place and put the smaller compression clamp back on the end closest to you.
Put your wheel back on, fill your ps pump back up with fluid and start the car, turning the wheel back and forth to purge the air from the system. It'll still be foamy for a while, but keep shutting the car off, let the bubbles disperse, add more fluid if needed, etc.
I learned this from another forum where many, many posters had tried this and it worked for them also.
Posted on Aug 12, 2010
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