Question about 2002 Kia Optima

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Wont start gives crank sensor code changed sensor still wont start

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  • wsbatson Jan 24, 2009

    I need the location of the crank sensor for a 2002 KIA Sportage

  • lilbigdread Feb 03, 2009

    cant find crank sensor

  • mikenmenchie May 11, 2010

    From reading here on the forum, you might look into some other things - look at the fuel system - filter, pump, etc....

    One solution involved the Throttle Position sensor.


  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2014

    crank sensor change car wont start

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    wont crank up just starts like it want s to but does not what could it be not oxegen sensor replaced and knock sensor put in

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Crank sensor location

Posted on Oct 29, 2008


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  • Kia Master
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Just because the crank sensor sets a code that does not mean the sensor is defective, it means there is a problem in the crank sensor circuit, that can be the sensor, the sensor connector, the sensor wiring or in some rare cases the PCM (computer)

Posted on Oct 15, 2008

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  • Master
  • 360 Answers

It also could be the cam sensor........ they share the same 5 volt supply

Posted on Oct 15, 2008

6 Suggested Answers

roedmondson
  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: no power to plugs or coils wont start

You sghould check to verify that fuel is reaching to the rails. There is a possibility that there might be a fuel blockage before the rails

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: The car cranks but won't start

Ok, check the following below--

1. Check the Ignition control Module for its operational value. it may be damaged.

2. Check the coils.
3. Check the plugs and wires.
4. Check the ECM/PCM/ECU(All represent the same device that is commonly known as the engine control computer)

Check these areas thoroughly for faults. I would also advise to replace the fuel filter and fuel pump as well.

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 412 Answers

SOURCE: my 2005 stratus wont start turns over but doesnt

2.4 L?REMOVE CAM SENSOR..CRANK ENGINE..MAKE SURE CAM IS TURNING..IF NOT..TIMING BELT IS BROKEN OR STRIPPED..NEW BELT SHOULD FIX PROBLEM..MAKE SURE YOU CHECK/REPLACE WATER PUMP/IDLER/TENSIONER

2.7L?REMOVE OIL FILL CAP AND SEE IF CHAIN IS MOVING..IF NOT..YOU HAVE COLLAPSED TENSIONER..YOU WILL HAVE SOME VALVE DAMAGE..LET ME KNOW IF TOU NEED MORE INFO

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

  • 381 Answers

SOURCE: i have 97 chrysler lhs 3.5l that just died on me

I would check the timing belt probably broke. Best way pull the cam sensor out take a flashlight shine it down in the hole and have someone turn it over. u should see it turning if you don't the timing belt is broke. good luck

Posted on Mar 29, 2010

  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 nissan altima 3.5 code p0340 (cam Sensor)

check the pin connectors to see if there split open and not making contact

Posted on Apr 03, 2010

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 silverado 4.3 cranks but

First check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

To replace the distributor follow this procedure;

The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these procedures.

There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. This "static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.

Removal;

1. With the engine at top dead center.

2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing indicating the number one position.

3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, Then make a reference mark of the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and the more precise you mark the position, the easier the installation of the new distributor will be. This will be reference mark #1.

4. Remove the distributor lock down bolt, (the lock down clamp will most likely be attached to the distributor and if so it should not be removed from the distributor) then slowly lift up on the distributor about three inches and note the direction that the ignition rotor turns, and when the ignition rotor stops turning then mark the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and then lift the distributor striaght up and out, and remove the gasket or any left over gasket material from the intake manifold. The more precise you mark the position the easier it will be to install the new distributor and an assistant might be helpful. This will be reference mark #2

Once the distributor has been removed it is important that the engine does not get cranked over by the starter or the crankshaft turned at all, or the reference marks will become useless.

Installation;

Be sure that the new distributor is complete with a new module and that there is a new gasket in place on the distributor.

1. Lower the distributor with gasket down into the distrbutor well and align the ignition rotor with the #2 reference mark and when the distributor gear engages the drive gear on the camshaft then the ignition rotor should turn to the #1 reference mark as the distributor sets all the way back down flush on the intake manifold.

2. Install and tighten the lock down bolt, and If the distributor is properly installed then the ignition rotor should be pointing to the #1 reference mark and the #1 position on the distributor housing with the engine on top dead center.

Replace the distributor cap and connect the spark plug wires, and see if the engine will start, if the engine does start and the check engine light does not come on (assuming that it was not on before) then the distributor is properly installed and there is no further timing requirements.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.



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Posted on Jul 31, 2010

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I replaced the engine in a 20002 Kia rio and now it wont start. It gives a crankshaft position sensor code. I replaced that and no change. The only time I have spark plug fire is when I release the...


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If the crank sensor circuit is malfunctioning, then that is your problem. The code does not mean that you must replace your crank sensor. (sometimes it means this, sometimes it does not) The code means that either the crank sensor CIRCUIT is out of range or the crank sensor cannot SYNCRONIZE with the cam sensor. There is a whole lot more to diagnosing a crank sensor circuit than simply replacing the crank sensor. Proper diagnostic procedures need to be followed to locate the exact cause of the problem.

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i just had the same problem on a 1997 4.0 . crank sensor is most likely bad you can spray starting fluid in the intake tube and car will start meaning you have spark but injectors will have no power I.E. crank sensor is bad 38.00 dollars at local parts store dealer told me 170.00 dollars make sure you push it all the way in when you install it i just posted a fix for this on this site today . after you start the car if it gives a misfire code and check engine light comes on loosen the crank sensor bolt and push it in again then tighten the bolt the cardboard on the sensor for the air gap wares off a little bit enabling you to push the sensor in a little bit more misfire should be gone there is only a few thousands of an inch adjustment for the air gap and it makes a difference. hope this helps

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SORRY TO SAY BUT WHEN ONE SENSOR GOES BAD 90% OF THE TIME BOTH GO BAD AT THE SAME TIME. YOU WILL ALSO HAVE TO REPLACE CRANK SENSOR .WITCH IS ABOUT 80 BUCKS AT THE LOCAL AUTO STORE SUCH AS ADVANCED AUTO OR AUTO ZONE . BOTH CAM SHAFT SENSOR AND THE CRANK SHAFT SENSOR. THIS SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM WITH THE DODGE STRATUS. GOOD LUCK. KENNY

Mar 02, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Stratus

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