Question about 1995 Ford Bronco

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1995 Ford Bronco dies when coming to a stop.

1995 Ford Bronco, 351, Auto. Already performed KOEO and KOER test, no codes. Tried wiggle test, nothing. Problem: Vehicle does not seem to recognise vehicle speed, and does not adjust transmission. Full throttle fine out of gear and will shift through all gears fine while driving, but upon slowing down less than 15 mph, vehicle shakes and sputters, and will kill the engine if coming to complete stop. If manually shifted into 1st or 2nd gear you the can prevent the killing of the engine. Additionally, you can see the battery guage drop as the engine sputters out.

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  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    The vehicle sputters and shakes with the check engine light blinking when driving.

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    manual transmission is stuck in neutral, will not go into gear

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The idle air control solenoid could be bad. give the engine a vacuum leak and see if that helps any

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

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http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

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the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. Hope this helps

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

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1 Answer

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the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. If you have no codes, then I would start by replacing plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil.

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

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1 Answer

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the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. If you have no codes, then I would start by replacing plugs, wires, distributor cap, and coil. A good tune-up is usually not a waste of money unless its been done recently

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

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1 Answer

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the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. Hope this helps

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

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