Question about 1991 Toyota 4Runner

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90 toyota 4 runner over rev'ing

Hi my dad has referred me to you, could you help me with the problem with my 91 toyota 4runner? It is a V6 3.0L 4x4 automatic transmission. The engine is a 22R-E and the transmission is A340F which i believe is stock for the 91 toyota 4runner. The problem started when i was going out of down and was driving for hours on the highway, before that i didn't notice it so i can't say it wasn't there before then. I was driving down the highway for only a few minutes, maybe 4 or 5 minutes and suddenly my RPM would go up. It was sitting at about 2500 going about 100km/h down the highway then it went up to about 3700 going same speed. I have tried many things to try and fix it, i turned my O/D switch on and off, i also switched into neutral while going down the highway, waited for the RPM to drop down under 1000RPM then switch back into neutral but still went back up to 3700RPM, i also tried to speed up to 120/125km/h thinking it might gear up but did not, and RPM would reach 4200RPM. Also my fuel consumption is outrageous, i am using twice as much as i should be. I getting about 200km on a 60L tank of gas. I have changed my throttle position sensor, and my coolant temperature sensor. I have checked for proper transmission fluid and radiator fluid amounts. It has been hesitating for about a second when i am completely stopped. But does not hesitate every time. Over the last week it has gotten worse, it no longer jumps up while driving down the highway, when i go up to 100km/h it is at 3600RPM almost like whatever was the problem has stopped working entirely. And the hesitation has been getting alot worse yesterday i had it hesitate for about 2-3 seconds. My dad rigged me up a wire with clips/fuses and a button to activate my error codes while driving because i was not getting any codes while i was parked. So while driving at 100km/h i pushed the button to activate the error codes and my O/D light began to blink constantly(no codes) and my check engine light blinked with error codes 41 and 51.

41 is the
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT INtps SIGNAL--tps SENSOR
--tps SIGNAL/CIRCUIT
--ECU

and 51 is
SWITCH SIGNALS
IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/CSWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU
WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED
--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--A/C AMPLIFIER
--TPS/CIRCUIT
--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--ECU

But i think that #51 was coming up because i was driving and not in park. I have also replaced a donut that was in my exhaust pipe before my Catalytic converter. I think that is about all, if there is anything you can think of would be greatly appriciated, thank you

kevin

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  • 21 more comments 
  • wrathfull Oct 15, 2008

    I also forgot to add that we have adjusted the timing a number of times to try and resolve the hesitation but ended up just going back to default settings, which i believe is 800RPM parked when the truck warmed up.

  • wrathfull Oct 15, 2008

    i have checked it and it does not seem like alot, although there is some, but i do not know how much u mean, there is black around the walls at the end, into the air intake, but not in the throttle body itself. i have taken a few pictures, hopefully they well help

  • wrathfull Oct 15, 2008

    You mean clean out the throttle body and air intake? So I should them both off and clean out thoroughly? If so I'll do that tomorrow morning because I'm on my way to work.

  • wrathfull Oct 16, 2008

    heya, good morning ed, so i have taken the intake manifold off and am cleaning it at the moment, as best as i can with toothbrush, and getting inside the air intake galley's. The throttle body is clean but did not understand what you ment by the screw. Is that the horizontal screw on the top of the throttle body?



    Also i did find small amounts of oil in on the air intake/intake manifold gasket. I do not think that there should be oil in there.


    When i first got the truck about 8 months ago ran ok for a bit then after about a month i did the headgaskets and all seals/gaskets from there up. I also have replace the waterpump just fuel filter, just so you have more info about what i have done in the past. Thanks again for the help


  • wrathfull Oct 17, 2008

    hello again ed, ill have it all put back together in a few minutes, you asked before, i did not feel any binding when i rotate the valve open. i do have a timing light but i do not know how to "adjust that screw to set the idle after the temp gauge reaches the middle", not sure how to set that screw.

  • wrathfull Oct 17, 2008

    So i got it all together, i did find that some of the air lines were clogged up and i cleared them out, i took it for a quick drive but not on the highway. It was the same as before pretty much, but should be alot better after i get the TPS and timing set properly

  • wrathfull Oct 17, 2008

    Could you please clarify on how to adjust the idle screw to where the idle is supposed to be, I am totally lost on how to do this part. thanks

  • wrathfull Oct 17, 2008

    Also i have not properly set the TPS, should i go by the settings from they "Hayes" manual?

  • wrathfull Oct 18, 2008

    Hi ed, i did alot of testing of my truck today, still had the same problem so we tried to adjust the position of the idle screw and also the TPS, and it was still doing the same thing. With the TPS connection end pointing up the truck would surge when we would sit in park and rev it up to 2500RPM, just noticed this when trying to warm up the truck that it was doing this, so we adjusted it on the highway a little bit at a time, even tried another TPS i got from the autowreakers. So adjusting it in little bits and going down the highway for a few min to see if the RPM would go up, it would do the same, but it would take longer for it to happen the more the TPS was pointing down. And seemed to run better like that. I don't know what else i should look at to fixing this. Thank you very much for the help.

    kevin


  • wrathfull Oct 27, 2008

    heya toyota ed, i haven't herd from ya in a while, just wondering what ya thought, since i talked to ya last i have done a transmission flush and filter which did not cure the problem so this morning i took it to a toyota dealership and they said that i need a new transmission, they said the clutch is slipping, but i have talked to transmission experts that only work on transmissions and they say it does not sound like a transmission problem, if you have any imput would be appriciated thanks.

  • wrathfull Oct 27, 2008

    ya sorry should have put helpfull, i will try that today and let ya know tommorow if there is a difference, thanks

  • wrathfull Oct 28, 2008

    heya ed, so i did add the additive and did not notice any change, i used a product by Lucas oil and does say it will help right away. i am thinking its not a tranny problem but then again it is hesitating when you try and go from a complete stop, thanks for all the help ed, much appriciated.

  • wrathfull Oct 29, 2008

    heya, i tried doing that and did not find any hesitation through the gears, only when from a stop. so i don't know if the two are related or not.

  • boompa Jan 03, 2009

    HEY, I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 96 4RUNNER (HAS 360,000) MILES BUT STILL PERFORMS OTHER THAN I WILL BE AT A STOP SIGN AND ALL OF A SUDDEN IT WILL REV UP TO 2500. HAVE TO BE READY TO APPLY THE BRAKE. THEN IT WILL RUN FINE AND LATER SAME OLD "REVUP". LOCAL SHOP CHANGED TWO ITEMS THINKING THAT EACH ONE WOULD CORRECT IT (OVER 500.00). THEN WHEN IT DIDN'T THEY JUST SOMEWAY SLOWED THE FAST IDLE(2500) DOWN. NOW I HAVE TO START IT BY HOLDING THE ACCELERATOR DOWN SLIGHTLY BUT IT DOES NOT REV UP BUT IT IS NOT FIXED!!!. CANT START IT ON COLD AM AND HAVE IT RUN FAST OD WARM UP. ALSO, UNREAL HOW MUCH GAS IT USES WHEN IT HAS IT'S PROBLEM----EVEN SEE MUCH BLACK SMOKE. I WISH I HAD THE ANSWER. GORDON

  • boompa Jan 03, 2009

    HEY KEVIN AND ED, I FORGOT TO SAY IT BUT WHEN MY 4RUNNEWR IS IN IT'S "SPELL" REVING UP EVEN WITH THE FAST IDLE IT WOULD HESITATE FROM EVERY STOP ABOUT 2 3 SECONDS. EVEN THOUGH IT WAS REVING UP TO 2500 IT STILL WOULD HESITATE WHEN YOU FIRST STARTED AND SMOKE (TRUCK DOES NOT USE OIL-EVEN WITH 360,000 MILES. GUYS I DON'T KNOW. I WILL GET MY PAPERS SHOWING WHAT THEY TRIED TO REPAIR. BOOMPA

  • Anonymous Jan 15, 2009

    Well I am going into shop for 3rd time today maybe the Throttle sensor as my 4cyl 924runner with 320,000 on it is hesitating in 2nd gear mostly. It was not the injector, coil or igniter, wires nor vacuum hose to regulater. So heard Toyota's are famous for this problem and it is a simple hose of sorts, but was looking in here to hopefully find which one?

  • Anonymous Feb 20, 2009

    1988 Toyota sports. Revving to 200 when idling and the battery light goes on. Then I turn it off and start the engine and no revving and no battery light. This happens all the time. Seems to not so much once the engine is heated up

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    The farther you screw it in, the slower the idle will go. If everything is good (no air leaks anywhere), the top of the screw should be close-flush with the top of the aluminum flat.

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    OK, good.

    Now: Start the engine, get it up to operating temperature, and adjust the idle screw to where the idle is supposed to be. Now, open the little diag connector box, and, using a standard paper clip, locate & jump the terminals E1 and Te1. Hook up your timing light & set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Tighten the distributor retainer bolt, remove the jumper & the timing light, drive it, and advise of the results that you experience on the highway.

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    Yes; remove that screw & clean it out real good. That screw is the final adjustment for the base idle. Don't worry about the oil, that is normal, unless you ahve large puddles of it. Get back to me when you get it all back together, adjust that screw to set the idle after the temp gauge reaches the middle. The we can reset the base timing and the TPS; you do have a timing light, yes?

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    Yes. Clean them out real good. Also, remove the small screw on the top side, spray down in there real good, too. It needs to be perfectly clean for the upcoming TPS settings to be exact.

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    Thnaks for the pix. Now, rotate the valve open slowly. Do you feel any binding? If so, this is your RPM sticking high reason. Get some good carb cleaner, and spray the daylights out of this whole chamber & valve. Scrub the walls with the cleaner with an old toothbrush.

    Spray it intil it is completly shiny.

    Start it up, and run the engine RPMS up to get the cleaner out of the engine. Drive it, and repost if there is ANY improvement; then we can discuss more issues with the TPS. The valve must CLOSE properly to set the TPS, and the black gunk may have impeded the TPS closed throttle switch.

    Drive it & get back to me tomorrow.

  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    Glad to be of assistance. Before we do anything, do the following for me:

    Locate & remove the tube running from the air filter box to the intake manifold. Undo the big ring-clamp. Using a flashlight, manually open the brass coloured round valve, and inspect the interior of the throttle plate/throttle body area. Advise me if you see large amounts of black gunk.

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  • Toyota Master
  • 1,861 Answers

Go ahead, get the TPS close, we'll final adjust it later.

Posted on Oct 17, 2008

  • Toyota Ed Oct 27, 2008

    How are you?

    Go out to a parts store and see if you can get some "TRANS-X", or some other type of additive for "slipping clutches" in the trans; dump the whole thing in & drive it. If the problem changes any at all, the trans internals may need attention. Really thought I'd get a better rating other than "Thanks for Trying" from you; that is a real low rating. Please get back to me if the trans additive does anything, good, bad or no change.

  • Toyota Ed Oct 28, 2008

    Accelerate thru the gears *** manually***. Low, 2nd Drive. Note where the hesitation occurs.

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