When I bought my 2000 Jeep G.C. I immediately bought new 20" tires and rims for it. It has been a year now and I regularly rotate the tires but I want to know what problems I should expect or look for with larger rims and tires to make it continue to run great.... Also I have not change the brakes or anything else on the body. Have not notice any problems.
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Re: Riding high on 20s
Im assuming you went to wider tyres also.Your steering is now under added stress due to extra force required to move the added rubber to road surface area,mainly from standstill and not so bad at driving speed.Either auto and manual but your speedo may no longer be accurate.Added stress to transmission.Slow take offs and added fuel consumption unless on hiway speeds.Added stress on suspension components.Basicly,it wont happen over night but you are shortening the life expectantcy of your vehicles components
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best talk with a tyre shop on this one as they will have tyres there that will fit the 20" rims and give the clearance that you want for your car. Rim off set is important and they should have this information in catalogues. Listen to tyre shops specialists and not your "mates" as your life depends on the selection of the tyres and rims
The factory aluminum wheels on Jeeps tend to become fused to the rotor and drum surfaces. A lot of can spray rust remover and a lot of tire kicking, after removing all the lug nuts, that will loosen up the bond between the wheel and rotor surface and the wheels will start to come off eventually, lots of kicking, alternating between the top and bottom of the tire.
If they have been spin balanced properly, then the wheels and/or tires are out of round or you have a bent rim. The right way to check this is to use a dial indicator and measure the runout of the tire and the rim. A good tire shop should have the equipment to measure this. There is always some radial runout (difference in distance between the center of rotation and the outer surface, both on the tire and on the wheel). When the tires are mounted on the rims, If the high spots of the tires happen to be aligned with the high spots of the rims, this makes the total runout worse. If the high spots of the tires are aligned with the low spots of the rims, the total runout is better. There is a limit on how much runout is acceptable to give a smooth ride. The tire shop should also measure lateral runout, which is the side-to-side variation in the wheel as it spins, or "wobble". If excessive, this would be a sign of a bent rim. Also, with the vehicle jacked up so the weight is off the wheels, you should check for any looseness in the suspension and bearings, which can also cause vibration.
There are lots of possible causes, and they can all be fixed.
One is alignment. If there is a bent tierod or something from hitting a curb, the front tires will be scrapping sideways slightly, and very noisy. Very high traction tires are also very noisy inherently. Wheel bearing will also do this, but unlikely at this new age. Rotating radial tires from one side to another will cause excess tire noise because cords will be slack in the tire. But there is not much that can be done if that is the case except new tires. Tire pressure either to high or low can be very noisy. Wheel balance can do it also.
I would start by first making sure you dont have a bent rim. Check the tires for any bubbles in the sidewall or any deformation in the tire as this would suggest a broken cord inside the tire. If that checks out, get the tires balanced and see if that solves the problem.
I recommend taking your vehicle to a shop (any shop) that use a Hunter tire balancer. These machines can detect all variables that affect ride quality by not only spinning the rim, but it uses a roller to inspect the tire itself for its "road force". They can also measure the rim while on the machine for run-out to detect for a bent rim. There can be times when a tire can be mounted to the wheel in a postion that promotes more vibration, but the hunter machines can check and show the correct location to minimize the feel to the driver. Here is a picture of the kind of balancer you want your vehicle serviced at. Please let me know how things work out.
My Death Wobble started immediately after I installed a set of Coil Spring Spacers (to lift 1.75 inches) on my stock 2005 Jeep Wrangler X. Turned out, the DW was because while changing the height, I also lowered the CASTER angle in the front end. So, to fix it, I could have purchased a set of eccentric bolts for $50+. Instead I went out and purchased a piece of 1.5 inch flat bar for $10 from OSH. I cut out 4 1.5 inch squares. Then i drilled 7/16 inch holes centerline, but close to one side (in exactly the same place) on all for squares. I then removed the lower control arm bolts, nuts and washers. I installed these square offset washers I made so the front axle would be pushed forward (to increase the Caster angle). The toe setting changed a bit, so I reset them to about 1/8 inch toe in. After driving my Jeep, I noticed there is no more DW. The steering wheel was off center, but after 3 attempts, I have that perfectly centered. I have every intension of having the alignment checked, but not till after I find the new tires I want. If anyone is interested, I can draw out and photograph the cure and send it to you. My e-mail is bb62471(at)yahoo(dot)com.