I was driving around when my battery light came on so i took it to the local repair shop and they said i need a new alternator. so i got one and put it on then the next day the battery died again so i get it to my machanic and he said my alternator is broke. so i go and get the best one i can find and put it in. when i install it in my car my battery eventualy dies again. when they checked my alternator it always says no output what is my problem?????
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Normally the "Fuse-able Link" is right next to the Battery. It'll be a short length of wire supplying all the current to the fuse box.But this won't be the cause.
I have a problem with your description "Battery still dies while driving around". Can you elaborate on this?
Assuming the Battery and Alternator are not defective, the fan belt is tight enough and the Battery is fully charged, all should be ok.
You'll need an OBD-II scanner tool to read the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) which will help in troubleshooting the problem. You can either rent or buy one (Sear, NAPA, Pep Boys, or Auto Zone). Or else have the car towed to your local Dodge dealership for repairs or to any local auto repair shop w/ ASE certified mechanic.
If you are able to pull the codes before going to a shop, post them and we can take it from there.
how old is the battery get it checked and make sure the connections at the the battery and the terminal on the stsrter pos. post are tight. find the grd term on the engine and make sure every thing is good and tight
There are no computers involved in working on a motor vehicle
The vehicles have processors,in your case a PCM
(Powertrain Computer Module)
The repair shops have a scan tool,scanner or PC Based Scan
Tool Software. No computers at all, to fix your truck
You need a repair shop to find & resolve the Diagnostic
Data Connector issue,before they proceed to other issues
You do not always have DTC-diagnostic trouble codes,
present that can be read with a scan tool or code reader,
but there may be data stored, if the scan tool is used properly
to look at monitored system data using the correct Mode
You could clean the throttle plate,check the TPS Sensor &
see what you have for idle control,such as a AIR Idle Solenoid etc
Humm ...Didn't die before the accident? now dies? BMW has good mechanics,but could not find any problem???. I gota think that it is related to the rear ending,but how? I would look for loose connections, Battery Ground that might have been removed before welding.Battery terminals, Any primary connections that may not be making 100% contact . It's worth a try.Good Luck
This is going to sound crazy but i had the same problem with my 2003 silverado, changed the plugs, battery, and alternator with no sucess at all. Finally took my truck to a well respected auto repair shop locally in my area and they suggested i change the fuel filter under the truck. Crazy right? Why not, so i did and my truck ran perfect after i changed it. Shop tech said my truck was starving for fuel which in turn was not letting the alternator spin above the correct RPMs at all times which in turn caused the electrical computer system to not operate correctly. If you tried everything might as well try the fuel filter before you have to spend big bucks at the repair shop. Hope this helps.