Cant get brake pedal on 405 after changing rear calipers and one front.have put a new master cylinder on and a new brake load sensing unit pedal just hits the floor have bled it lots but no joy can you puta bit off light on this problem for me cheers nigel
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Re: peugeot 405 no brake pedal
Try a pressure bleeding system on it for the brakes.incidentaly if using the pedal to bleed brakes or getting new pads out to their position gentle use of pedal is advised otherwisw you can reverse the seals in the master cylinder and you wont get any pedal if this happens
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What about the front pads/calipers...also check the master cylinder..the master cylinder is the unit that the brake pedal connects to and it can have bad seals inside where the fluid is blowing by the seals and not building pressure
Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System
1992 Festiva Workshop Manual
GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS
Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.
Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.
Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid.
During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers.
To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.
Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.
Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting.
The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.
Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.
Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.
Close the bleeder fitting.
Have the assistant release the brake pedal.
Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.
When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.
Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.
Check the master cylinder fluid level.
If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.
The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS
vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For
details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures
later in this section.
Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold
it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master
cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until
all air is removed from the master cylinder.
Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the
vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill,
immediately flush the area with water.
If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line
disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by
that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then
all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake
pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the
brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the
caliper or cylinder.
When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If
the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is
Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder
Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid
Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system
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there are o rings under the resivior (where the brake fluid goes) where it connects to the master cylinder fluid bleeds from the suplly to the return side if they are bad also check the master cylinders in the back brakes(if drum type) they might be leaking
I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words.
Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.
Check the left rear brake for sticking on also, if it is then you have a master cylinder problem. replace brake master cylinder but check the adjustment of the brake light switch first. the switch is above the brake pedal, make sure it is not holding the pedal partially on.