Change battery and some fuses(under bonnet) ever since vehicle will not start and showing electrical/esp faults. ran diag on vehicle and cleared all fault codes(18) which had occured since battery and fues change
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it looks like an interior light or if fitted an undef bonnet light check to see what lights are not working and check for earth if not reply an i can investigate if you have more info,just a thought its not a LPG conversion is it ?
Check the main fuses under the bonnet and also if iam correct here a relay ? yes do a lot on these cars but i do find i get weird electrical faults mainly caused by corrosion in this fuse box on the fuse feet .Mainly on cars that have been brought to spain from the northern parts of europe ,If the electrics were as good as the mechanicals on this car then it would a winner
I have 2 meganes im working on at the moment both have the same problem. the electrical falt light is on coz the pipe has snapped (or come off) under the bonnet on the passangers side close to the window (theres a black box about 2 inch wide the pipe connects underneath). if I reconect the pipe and grab the engien with both hands it wobbles and the pipe pulls off. I suspect this is coz one (or all) the engien mountings are shagged. and this will be the cause of the juddering when driveing in first and second gears. solutions iv have come across for juddering involve changeing the coil pack but thats nothing to do with the problem my 2 cars have as one of them has new coils. they are 1.6 petrol, p reg and s reg
this exact problem on a megane coupe is caused by a small air pipe that
connects to a 2 inch wide black box that is located under the bonnet
near the windscreen on the passangers side. the zigzag light indicates
an electrical fault (in this case lack of compression and will affect
your revs) if you find this pipe and it has snapped off. the reason for
this may be that your engien is lose and moves. grab the engien with 2
hands and see if you can wobble it with allot of play. if so your
engien mountings need replaceing. you may also experiance juddering in
The cheapest way to go is to change the fuel filters first and the air filter. Then I would change the crankshaft sensor.
You may have to bit the bullet , and have the fuel pump changed before the fuel injection pump. The fuel pump in the tank can be loosing pressure to the fuel injectoin pump.
I think the lesser cost is the fuel tank pump vs. the fuel injection pump.
The system runs of fuel and air. No spark like on a gas engine.
So the problem can only be lack of fuel or lack of air getting into the vehicle air induction. A restriction in fuel or air will make the engine run poorly.
this is a white box on the other side of the passangers dash board. lift up the bonnet and disconnect it. that will stop the noise but now your heaters will only get warm instead of hot. its some sort of flap to do with the heater matrix. realy anoying
when you say the bonnet has been pushed in do you mean like in a traffic accident if this is the case then is your grill damaged,the reason i say this is the only way you are going to open your bonnet is through your grill so a replacement grill will be needed.if you take this course of action,take a torch and look up under the bonnet you will se the bonnet realease at the very front of your bonnet it will have the bonnet realease cable attached you might need help at this stage,get a friend to push down on your bonnet,put your hand in and push or pull the lever until it releases as this works on a hook system and with the damage it might need a pretty stronge screwdriver to force it always remember the radiator is very easly damaged and very costly to replace .Hope this will help you get your bonnet open .adrian