Question about 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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1994 Jeep Grand Cheroke engine dies every few miles

My jeep dies as I am traveling dwn the road with no warning. It happens every time I drive it. Then after a few minutes, its starts up again. I have disarmed the security system which helped, but it still dies, any suggestions? PCM maybe?

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  • karen_spence Oct 13, 2008

    I did have my mechanic check the fuel system, says it is pumping normally. Can you tell me where the relays are that I want to switch around?

  • karen_spence Oct 14, 2008

    We found a module labeled auto shutdown system, could this be the issue? Is there a way to bypass or shut this down?

  • karen_spence Oct 14, 2008

    the problem is in the on board security system so what dose the auto shutdown fuse do?

  • karen_spence Oct 14, 2008

    We still are dead in the water yates, we have checked all the fuses, the are all fine, it still will not turn over at all, Called the auto store about getting a code cecker, they said it would not help if the problem is electrical, I am becoming very frusterated, any other suggestions as to what I can check? The thing just wont fire

  • karen_spence Oct 14, 2008

    Hi Paul, it isnt patiqular as to when it dies, doe ok when cold, but after it warms up is when it starts dying. It will restart after a while, go a mile or mayed 3-4 then die again, it also has been known to g further, there is no rhyme or reason to it from what I can tell

  • tonkababe Oct 16, 2008

    We have a similar problem with our jeep. When we drive the jeep for some miles the engine automatically dies down. Is it the fuel pump?

  • ezarate Nov 17, 2008

    I have the same problem. Had realized that if car is with all electronic devices turned of, will run again, if anything goes on (even headlights!!!) the car will stumble or simply die... 


    .. all the rest seems to be working properly. 



  • joe-hale Feb 20, 2009

    Drive my jeep 1994 cherokee for a few minutes and it just stalls, no warning or stutering. you stop the car, put in park and turn the key, off she goes, again a few miles down the road the same thing will happen.

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This is 100% certainly the "CKP" or crank possition sesor. I had the same problem on my SE 4.0L cherokee, i replaced the ignition pack - leads, dizzy cap, coil as the dizzy cap had major dirt and arc marks inside, king pin lead was loosing connection when warm also.
However this did not solve my problem, it helped, thats it.

I then used the in car diognostic system to see what that told me, sure enough - code 11, code 12 and code 55. meanings as follows.

11- no signal from crankshaft sensor
12 - main battery power disconnected
55- end of test

Once i replaced the crank shaft sensor and disconnected the battery for 30 mins to reset all fault codes it removed code 11.

Follw this link to learn how to use the on board diognostics - http://members.cox.net/wilsond/engine_codes.html

Hope this helps people out there!

Joe

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

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I had this problem myself. It turned out to be the crank sensor. It bolts into the bell housing.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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Hello!

I did read this problem with the car shutts down if you will pull your feet out from the gas pedal, or pushing the brakes, i had 5-6 diffrent Grand Cherokee, from 94-98 all the same problems, and after changing the battery of the car, everything went fine, i used to be a car dealer, and when the crs were not running, the battery drains a little, even i could start the car from the first time.
So, i suggest that you change your battery to known good one.
Hope this Helps.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

I have a 1994 Grand Cherokee, and I can tell you first had that the first place to start when jeep just start to turn off is the CPS, or Crank Position Sensor. it is mounted on the driver side top of bell housing, just at firewall. I have gotten to the point I can change it in 15 min on the side of the road, and I always carry a spare. it's held in place with one 10mm bolt, and the wire lead wraps around off to the Distributor harness plug area.

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

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I have read that this problem of stalling, or engine dying while in motion, is due to a bad cam position sensor. Replacing this sensor should solve the problem.

I don't know much about this, but I am researching problems with '94 Grand Cherokees prior to possible purchase of a used one and found this to be an oft-cited issue. The aforementioned solution was suggested by several sources. I have no verification of the utility of this advice.

Good luck.

Dan

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

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Ignition module or fuel starvation.It could also be a relay Try swapping the relays around Try to do one relay at a time.ignition and fuel pump relays should be seperatly done and not swapped with each other

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • tony yeatman
    tony yeatman Oct 14, 2008

    They should be in the engine bay close to the battery with a removable lid that should have the relay location Unsure with your service manual but location and relay placement may also be in it.The suggestion I made cost nothing but does eliminate one of the potential faults and makes it easier for yates to solve for you

  • tony yeatman
    tony yeatman Oct 14, 2008

    Has it got a good injector pulse.You will need a noid light tester to plug into the injector plug

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Hi when it doesn,t start up you need to see if there is a spark at the plugs or if it is fuel as there are quite a few possibilties and guessing can be expensive if you find out just get back and lets see if we can sort it out for you yates210456

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

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  • paul yates Oct 13, 2008

    hi if the fuel system is ok and no check lights are coming on then its a ignition fault try the ignitions coil and the distributor and wiring did you get the fuel regulator checked when he did the fuel pressure test no good fuel pumping if its going straight back in the tank best of luck yates210456

  • paul yates Oct 14, 2008

    hi automatic shutdown is a fuel cut out in case you have a bump so the vechicle has less chance of setting on fire glad you found the problem any futher problems just ask yates210456 nice of stormbrewin to see if he can help too

  • paul yates Oct 14, 2008

    hi karen firstly try not to get upset now as far as i can gather the car runs for a while then cuts out then when you try to start it it turns over but won,t start so you leave it a few miniutes and then it starts is that correct or is it when it cuts out and you try to start it it won,t turn over this is important and how long are you driving when it decides to cut out and when from cold does it take a longer drive before it cuts out in other words when you drive it and it cuts out so after afew mins it starts does it take as long before it cuts out again now the engines warm and does it do it more often when warm or when you first start it from cold i will stay on for a while so i will get back as soon as paul

  • paul yates Oct 14, 2008

    hi karen i been doing a bit of research on this problem your having and you are not alone with this there has been quite a few people complaining of the same problem and got the same answers off garages as you have at a great cost to themselves they have changed every thing but the one common thing that they all agree on is the fuel pump one bloke had three fitted and didn,t cure his problem one bloke got quoted $600 for the ecu so this is a common problem so if this was mine first as i said before you need to get someone to check the fuel line pressure suggust not the mechanic that tested it first time because i would not leave you with a car that won,t start which says he doesn,t know what he,s doing or cannot be bothered not good for you once the pressure has been checked its right or wrong if its right check the fuel regulator once this is all checked get the mechanic to put noids on the injectors crank the engine see if they are getting a signal if so then we can move on the fuel side is ok . now if all that checks out we move on to the ignition see if there is a spark at the plugs a strong blue spark if so then take the plugs out check the compressions if ok replace the plugs it should start up if there is no spark and there is definatley no engine code light on you need to check the distributor take the cap off check for tracking and burned segments if ok now you need to see if there is any live feeds to the distributor and check the engines grounding wires if all is well you will need to check the crank position sensor with a ohm meter if this is within tolerance then replace the distributors ignition coil as from this point it only leaves two possibilites the ecu and a vapour lock which went out with the ark but i would check before a ecu see if any of the fuel lines are running near a heat source [exhaust ] just check round the back of your car to see if when it is being turned over there is gases coming out of the exhaust if not disconnect the exhaust at the front and try and start it is possible the exhaust is blocked but i will look into it futher for you these checks need to be done properly otherwise you will not solve the problem let me know how you go on best of luck paul

  • paul yates Oct 15, 2008

    hi karen after checking the wiring manuall for your car i have noticed that all the problems that people are having with the fuel system all pump related the asd relay which feeds both ignition and fuel pump the green and orange wire on the ignition coil should be 12v if not that wire goes to the asd relay [now if your a/c works then apparantly this relay is the same swop it for that if this does not start the car then this is the part that nobody seems to realise is there is a ballast resistor in the wiring circuit from the relay to the pump and should be 1.1 ohm this breaks down and burns the pumps out and the ecu has a by-pass relay to give 12v while starting so if you put a 12v live feed directly to the pump it should start up then you will have to order the resistor from the dealers i bet they don,t even know its there so you will have to be persistant you should marry me after this let me know how you go on paul

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