Question about 1999 Chevrolet C1500

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Intake manifold the intake manifold gaskets are plastic and rubber do you just hand titen the manifold or what is the tork specks for the bolts

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I usually just tighten them hand tight using the cross pattern there is a tourque spec it is 44inch lbs i belive but never had a problem tighting them like i explained

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

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Bolt torque sequence on 1991 jaguar xj6 4.0 intake manifold?


intake manifold or head gasket? i know head gasket need a sequential order followed by how many degrees and Lbs of pressure. if its on the intake i doubt it needs an specific torque. just try not to crack the intake manifold since its made of plastic.

Oct 29, 2012 | 1991 Jaguar XJ6

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Replacing spark plugs and coils on Mazda Tribute V6


Here are DIY step by step instructions for replacing the spark plugs and / or coils in a Mazda Tribute V6 (based on a 2001 Tribute).

This is a lengthy procedure, but don't be frightened, it works...I have done it a few times. This will save you a few hundred $$$ if you do it yourself. Make sure to read all of these instructions, preferably while looking at your engine, before you get started. You will need 2-3 hours to do this job.

NOTE 1: IF YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC ISSUE WITH CYLINDERS/COILS 4, 5, OR 6, YOU ARE IN LUCK, YOU ONLY HAVE TO REMOVE A PLASTIC ENGINE COVER. IF YOUR ISSUE IS WITH CYLINDERS/COILS 1, 2 OR 3, OR YOU ARE CHANGING ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS, YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. THESE INSTRUCTIONS COVER CHANGING ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS AND CAN BE USED TO REPLACE ANY OF THE COILS.

NOTE 2: IF YOU ARE THINKING OF REPLACING YOUR SPARKPLUGS BECAUSE YOUR ENGINE IS RUNNING ROUGH, PLEASE DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND GET THE ENGINE SCANNED FIRST TO MAKE SURE THAT A COIL IS NOT THE ISSUE. YOU CAN REPLACE YOUR PLUGS AND BAD COILS AT THE SAME TIME WITH THIS PROCEDURE. YOU WILL BE UPSET IF YOU DO THIS WORK TO REPLACE ONLY YOUR SPARKPLUGS, THEN YOU FIND OUT AFTERWARDS THAT A COIL WAS BAD AND YOU HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN LIKE I DID.

1. Tools: Pliers, ratchet wrench, ratchet wrench socket extension, 8 mm socket, 10 mm socket, Spark plug socket, flat head screw driver, plastic zip tie, plastic cup or bowl. Not necessary, but very helpful: Magnet on an antenna to pick up dropped nuts/bolts.

2. All directions are given from a point of reference as if standing in front of the car, except for removing the coils and plugs from firewall (back) side of the engine.

3. Using flat head screwdriver, loosen band clamp on large rubber air intake hose where it connects to the intake manifold on the right side of the engine. Slowly work rubber intake hose off of intake manifold.

4. Unplug wires from back side of air idler valve - small unpainted metal part mounted on top of air intake on manifold (close to where the air intake hose connects to intake manifold).

5. Disconnect small rubber hose from top of the ERG valve (black metal disk near back right side of manifold.

6. Remove the two bolts that hold ERG valve to manifold bracket. Use the 10 mm socket and ratchet to remove these. If you are trying to remove the 8 mm bolts, you are removing the wrong bracket. Be careful, there is a gasket between the manifold and the ERG valve, make sure it does not fall out when removing bolts. Place bolts and gasket in cup.

7. There is a small plastic sensor just to the left of the ERG valve towards the back of the engine. If you look at how the sensor is attached to the manifold, you will see that the back left side bolt that holds this sensor, also connects the intake manifold to a plastic wiring harness at the firewall. You will need to remove the 8 mm nut from this bolt to free up the intake manifold in a later step. Now remove 8 mm bolt from other side of sensor. Might need the socket extension to remove these. Place nut and bolt in cup.

8. Unplug wires from the back of the sensor discussed in the previous step (7).

9. There are 3 hoses of different sizes plugged into the back of the manifold. Unplug all three hoses from manifold. Remove zip ties if needed to slide hoses off. Left hose may have a compression clamp, use pliers to loosen clamp while sliding hose off.

10 There are two large black plastic wiring connectors supported by the back left side of the manifold. They are supported by plastic clips with plastic barbs. Use the flat head screw driver to pry off the support clips from the manifold - don't worry, you won't break them. You will be able to plug them back in later.

11. There are still a few things attached to the intake manifold, but there will be enough flexibility now to lift up the manifold and replace the spark plugs.

12. Remove the plastic engine cover - there are three 8 mm nuts to remove. You will need the socket extension. One the nuts are removed, you will have to wiggle the cover off especially on right side. Place nuts in cup.

13. The plastic intake manifold on top of the engine is now exposed. If you look down at the front side of the engine, you will see the coils for cylinders 4, 5 and 6 (going from left to right). The tops of the coils will probably say "Motorcraft" on them. Also, there are two cables attached to the top of the manifold - leave them alone.

14. There are 8 bolts that hold the intake manifold down. The bolts are located in two rows of 4 across the top of the manifold. Loosen them all using the 8 mm socket with extension. Note: these bolts do not come completely out when fully loosened.

15. Slowly work the intake manifold loose by lifting up on each side. NOTE: Work the manifold off of the bolt discussed in step 7 (back right side of manifold), NOTE: Work slowly watching for anything that might be hanging up. You should eventually be able to get about 4" of clearance between the back right side of the manifold and engine, and 8-10" of clearance on the back left side. Move around to the passenger side to help lift off the manifold. While working on the back side plugs, you will stand on the passenger side of the car.

16. Once you are able to lift up the manifold, get a cup, block of wood, anything suitable approx. 5" tall to prop up the manifold (place under center of manifold). This will keep the manifold off your hands while you are working.

17. The three coils on the back side of the engine are now visible if you are standing on the passenger side of the car (cylinders 1, 2 and 3) Cylinder 1 is closest to you - passenger side, cylinder 3 is furthest from you - driver side.

18. Each coil has one 8 mm bolt holding it down. Take the 8 mm socket and ratchet and remove the bolts from the 3 coils on the back side of the engine. Place bolts in cup.

19. Lift each coil away from engine (do not pull on wires plugged into the coil). Pull each coil's silicon rubber tube out of spark plug hole, bend tube to get it out without pulling on the coil wiring. Leave coils plugged in and lay them to the side. NOTE: If you are looking to replace a coil (or coils) simply unplug the coil wires from the old coil, and plug into new coil at this stage.

20. Using sparkplug socket and socket extension, remove each of the back 3 spark plugs.

21. Install the new spark plugs (gap them first if they are gap type).

22. Slide each coil rubber tube back into sparkplug hole and bolt down coil (8 mm bolt). Congratulations! The hard part is over with!

23. Make sure the rectangular intake port gaskets are clean on the engine (before lowering the intake manifold back down).

24. Slowly work the intake manifold back down to the top of the engine - make sure that the manifold is back on the bold discussed in step 7, and that nothing is binding.

25. Bolt the manifold back down (eight bolts, 8 mm, still attached to the manifold). Use 8 mm socket with extension. Gradually tighten the bolts going from bolt to bolt until they are all tight (don't fully tighten one bolt first).

26. Remove coils and spark plugs on front side of engine. Replace spark plugs and re-install coils. Same procedure as back side of engine, but much easier. Replace coil(s) if desired.

27. Re-install the two plastic wiring connector support clips to the left side of the manifold - push barbed clips into manifold.

28. Reconnect 3 hoses to back side of manifold. Place new plastic zip tie on hose that had zip tie.

29. Reinstall plastic sensor on back right side of manifold (8 mm nut and 8 mm bolt).

30. Plug in wires back into back side of plastic sensor.

31. Reinstall 10 mm bolts and gasket on ERG valve and tighten to manifold.

32. Reconnect small rubber hose to top of ERG valve.

33. Reconnect large air intake hose to intake manifold and tighten hose clamp using flathead screwdriver.

34. Plug wires back into back of idle air control valve (this was uplugged in step 4).

35. Leave the plastic engine cover off for now. Check all around the manifold and make sure everything is reconnected.

36. Start engine - should start and run normally (or better). If not, go to trouble shooting at the end.

37. Reinstall plastic engine cover (three 8 mm nuts). Make sure engine is not running when reinstalling plastic cover.

TROUBLE SHOOTING: If engine light comes on (and wasn't on before changing plugs), or if engine runs rough, stop engine and double check that all wires and hoses are plugged back in. If you find wires or hose left disconnected, reconnect them. Disconnect car battery for a few minutes then reconnect (to clear out engine alarm). Restart car, engine should run well, engine light should be cleared.

on May 01, 2010 | Mazda Tribute Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to fix oil leaks in chevy ss impala 1996



Instructions

1. Removal

Unscrew the bolt that holds the negative connection to the Impala's battery. Set this bolt aside for later use.

Remove the engine cover to access the intake manifold and manifold gasket. Disconnect the throttle body inlet duct from the engine.

Twist off the radiator cap to allow draining of the coolant to flow more smoothly. Place an empty container beneath the radiator's drain plug, and remove this plug. Allow all of the engine coolant to drain into the empty container. Replace the drain plug once you are finished.

Tag all of the electrical wiring and hoses before removing so that reconnection is precise to factory settings. Remove these parts, individually, from the intake manifold.

Loosen the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the Impala's engine block. Lift the intake manifold from the block once all bolts have been completely removed.

Use the flat-head screwdriver to pry the old intake manifold gasket from the engine block. Discard this part once you have removed it.

Clean the engine block thoroughly with the engine degreaser and linen cloth. If necessary, use a gasket scraper to remove excess buildup and grime.

2. Installation

  • Coat the top and bottom of the new intake manifold gasket with a chemical sealer so that it bonds to the engine block securely. Position this new manifold gasket so that it lines up perfectly with the cylinder ports of the Impala's engine block.

Place the old intake manifold on top of the newly-installed manifold gasket until it aligns with all of the holes of the cylinder flanges and manifold gasket.

Attach all of the bolts with your hand to the manifold. Once all bolts have been positioned, use a torque wrench and apply 15 foot-pounds of pressure to the bolts to secure the manifold into place.

Reconnect all of the necessary hoses and electrical wiring to the intake. Pour the engine coolant back into the radiator.

Reattach the engine cover on top of the intake manifold and engine block. Start the Impala's engine and check for any leaks around the new intake manifold gasket.

Jul 08, 2012 | 1996 Chevrolet Impala SS

1 Answer

How replace intake gaskets focus 2000


SECTION 303-01B: Engine - 2.0L SPI 2000 Focus Workshop Manual IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Procedure revision date: 07/5/2001 Intake Manifold
Special Tool(s) 412108.jpg Remover/Installer, hose clamp
412-108 (T96P-18539-A) Removal
  1. Release the fuel pressure. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00.
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
  1. Detach the intake manifold bracket.
    • Loosen the nuts and remove the bolts.
    e0008065.jpg
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Remove the air cleaner housing.
    1. Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor electrical connector.
    1. Disconnect the air cleaner outlet hose.
    • Remove the air cleaner housing from the rubber bushing.
    e0009092.jpg
  1. Disconnect the accelerator cable.
    1. Unhook the cable.
    1. Remove the plastic clip and position the accelerator cable to one side.
    e0009093.jpg
  1. Disconnect the speed control cable.
    1. Unhook the cable.
    1. Remove the plastic clip and position the speed control cable to one side.
    e0009094.jpg
  1. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hoses.
    e0009794.jpg
  1. Disconnect the vacuum hoses.
    1. EVAP solenoid valve.
    1. Brake booster.
    1. Delta pressure feedback electronic (DPFE) system sensor.
    1. Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve.
    e0009099.jpg
  1. Disconnect the EGR valve.
    • Discard the gasket.
    e0009351.jpg
  1. NOTE: Clamp the hoses to prevent coolant loss.
    Disconnect the coolant hoses from the intake manifold.
    e0024942.jpg
  1. Remove the vacuum hose assembly.
    e0009101.jpg
  1. Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor and the idle air control (IAC) valve.
    e0009353.jpg
  1. NOTE: Do not remove the oil level indicator tube.
    Remove the bolt and bracket from the oil level indicator tube.
    e0008058.jpg
  1. Remove the intake manifold upper support bracket.
    e0024943.jpg
  1. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors.
    e0018167.jpg
  1. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
    1. Intake manifold runner control (IMRC).
    1. Camshaft position (CMP) sensor.
    1. Ignition Coil.
    e0024941.jpg
  1. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00.
  1. Remove the intake manifold retainers and position the manifold to the rear of the engine compartment (shown with engine removed).
    e0009357.jpg
  1. Remove the IMRC manifolds (shown with engine removed).
    • Remove the two studs first.
    • Discard the gaskets.
    e0028869.jpg
  1. Remove the intake manifold from the engine compartment.
    e0028727.jpg

Mar 08, 2011 | 2000 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Intake manifold bolt pattern 1999 jimmy 4 by 4 i replaced the intake gasket my son did not use a bolt pattern o a tork wrench it leaks at the back under side


Remove the manifold add sealant to both sides of the gaskett and tighten from the midlle outwards.touque is about 20LBSsqinch.That should work fine

Jan 12, 2011 | 1999 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

I need torque specks for valve train for a 1987 nissan truk v6 3.0 litter


cylinder head bolts 40 - 47 ft lbs, intake manifold bolts 12 - 14 ft lbs. , intake manifold nuts 17 - 20 ft lbs. , rocker arm shaft bolts 13 - 16 ft lbs. exhust manifold bolts 13 - 16 ft lbs. i hope this helps.

Dec 22, 2010 | Nissan Pickup Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

It leaks coolant under the thermostat houseing between the block and manifold


Sounds like your intake manifold gasket is leaking. This is a very common problem for these trucks.

Mar 28, 2010 | 1998 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

I have a chevy 283 v8, I have replaced the head gaskets however i dont know the tork sequence or spec to reinstall them, also the rocker bolt spec


Spark Plugs: 20-25 Cylinder Head Bolts: 60-70 Intake Manifold: 25-35 Exhaust Manifold: 18-22 Rocker Arm Shaft Bracket: none Rocker Arm Covers: 25 (inch/lbs) Connecting Rod Cap Bolts: 30-35 Main Bearing Cap Bolts: 60-70 Flywheel to Crankshaft: 55-65 Vibration Damper or Pulley: Pressed on

Nov 03, 2009 | Chevrolet Impala Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Intake manifold gasket / replace


3.8L Engine

NOTE The 3.8L (VIN K) non-supercharged engine uses a two-piece intake manifold consisting of an upper air plenum which mounts the throttle body and a lower intake manifold assembly which houses the fuel injectors. The 3.8L (VIN 1) supercharged engine uses a similar lower intake manifold. The supercharger serves as the upper manifold.
Lower Manifold

NOTE Two bolts which fasten the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head are accessible only after the upper intake manifold is removed. These bolts are located in the right front and left rear corners of the lower intake manifold. Remove the upper intake manifold to service the lower intake.
The 3.8L (VIN 1) supercharged engine uses a manifold similar to the 3.8L (VIN K), but the supercharger serves as the upper manifold.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. On 3.8L (VIN 1) engines, remove the supercharger assembly. Please see the procedure in this section.
  3. Remove the upper intake manifold using the procedure above.
  4. Remove the EGR outlet pipe from the intake manifold.
  5. Detach the engine coolant temperature sensor wiring harness from the sensor.
  6. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts and carefully lift off the manifold.

To install:


0900c15280269f1b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Lower intake manifold bolt torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine
  1. Clean all parts well with degreaser, especially the gasket seal surfaces on the upper and lower manifold pieces and between the lower manifold and the cylinder heads..
  2. Install new gaskets to the cylinder heads and new seals to the engine block. Carefully lower the manifold into place. Apply thread-locking compound to the bolt threads. Make sure to install the two hidden bolts in the lower intake manifold. Hand start all bolts, then torque evenly to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). Follow the toque sequence, starting in the center, then working outwards in a circle.
  3. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of the removal process.

Upper Intake Manifold (Plenum)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. On 3.8L (VIN 1) engines, remove the supercharger assembly. Please see the procedure in this section.
  3. Tag for identification, then remove the right side spark plug wires.
  4. Disconnect the ignition wires from the fuel rail.
  5. Remove the fuel rail. Please see Section 5.
  6. Remove the cable bracket from the intake manifold.
  7. Remove the throttle body.


NOTE Two bolts which fasten the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head are accessible are accessible only after the upper intake manifold is removed. These bolts are located in the right front and left rear corners of the lower intake manifold.
  1. Remove the upper intake manifold bolts and carefully lift the upper intake manifold from the engine.



0900c15280269f1c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Upper intake manifold and bolt torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine
To install:
  1. Clean all parts well with degreaser, especially the gasket seal surfaces on the upper and lower manifold pieces.
  2. Install new gaskets to the cylinder heads and new seals to the engine block. Carefully lower the manifold into place. Make sure to install the two hidden bolts in the lower intake manifold. Hand start all bolts, then torque evenly to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Follow the torque sequence, starting in the center, then working outwards in a circle.
  3. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of the removal process.

Sep 11, 2009 | 1999 Buick Regal

1 Answer

Coolant in # 1 cylnder\clean intake port of intake manifold


Check the lower intake gasket again the new gaskets that are being use made out of plastic with rubber port seals sometimes don't seal right I still used gasket sealer with the new plastic gasket even if it has rubber seals. MY 4.2 v6 had that problem but I went ahead and replaced the head gaskets also just to cover all the bases. And my F-150 has 210,000 miles on it. Make sure you tight the bolts I know it probably calls for something like 8 ft lbs which to me is not tight enough. Double it.

Apr 18, 2009 | 2000 Ford F150 Flareside SuperCab

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