I have replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat 3 x , coolant temperature sensor and checked the mixture on the coolant to make sure it was correct. I have done an air bubble purge on this car at least 3 times and the gage still stays on cold for the longest time. Then it will go up to normal operating temperature but when you drive it , it goes back down to cold. The more the load on the engine the quicker it goes down.to cold. All the while the air in the car stays nice and warm.(once it's heated) Don't know where to go from here..
Well sounds like first start your car record where the temp needle reads, then let the engine warm up (with out driving) then rev the engine to about 3500-4000rpm a couple times does your needle move at all record then hold your rpm at 3500 for about 5-10 sec does this get the gauge to drop? sounds like you may "if not over heating at all and coolant level and circulation is good" have a circuit problem, you can test this by going to auto zone and ask for a scan to be done on your car when the plug into your OBD 2 ask them to go into DATA STREAM and then check to see what temp your ECM thinks the engine coolant is at does it match your gauge at idle and at 3500rpm if not its a faulty circuit
Park the Protege on a flat, paved surface, apply the parking brake and release the hood latch.
Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear wheels, then open the hood.
Lift the left front quarter panel of the Protege with the floor jack and place a jack stand under the front left frame rail. Repeat this for the right side to elevate the front axle of the Protege.
If the car is cool, remove the radiator cap. Do not remove the radiator cap if the engine is hot or still warm. Allow ample time for the motor to cool down, and then remove the cap slowly.
Put on safety glasses and crawl under the Protege. Locate the lower radiator hose, and loosen the clamp. Original clamps my be the type where you need to squeeze to tabs together to remove them, or they may be the kind that tighten and loosen with a screw. Use the channel locks for the tab kind or a screwdriver for the screw kind.
Line up the drain bucket beneath the lower radiator hose and remove the hose. Be careful, because the antifreeze will come out quickly. Wipe up any spills immediately with the shop rags.
Replace the lower radiator hose and resecure the clamp. Lower the Protege back to the ground.
Remove the air cleaner assembly in the engine compartment if necessary to access the thermostat. Remove the lid first, then the filter, then the bolts at the bottom of the air cleaner box using the ratchet, socket and the extension.
Disconnect the coolant temperature switch from the thermostat housing.
Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Remove the mounting nuts, the thermostat housing, the thermostat and the gasket.
Thoroughly clean the surfaces of the thermostat housing and the cylinder head housing with the gasket scraper. Take your time and get the two surfaces very clean.
Insert the new thermostat into the cylinder head, making sure the pin is on top and the spring of the thermostat is in the cylinder head side. Install the new gasket so the print side of the gasket is against the cylinder head flange.
Replace the thermostat housing and nuts, and tighten them securely. Do not overtighten, or you could damage the cylinder head.
Replace the upper radiator hose and clamp. Replace the coolant temperature switch, and replace the air cleaner assembly.
Make sure the drain bucket is beneath the radiator neck in the event antifreeze purges air bubbles from the system. Add new 50 percent mixed antifreeze and 50 percent water to the radiator. Add it slowly, using a funnel if necessary. When the radiator is full, start the engine with the radiator cap still off, and allow the Protege to reach operating temperature. Add antifreeze to the radiator as necessary. Fill the surge tank when through. Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake and test drive. Recheck the antifreeze level a couple times and add as necessary
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I Thank you for your help. It seems the problem was the thermostat after all. It seems that for a Mazda you cannot buy a thermostat from your local auto parts store. When I compared the one that originally came out of the car against the ones I had purchased from the stores, it was apparent there was quite a difference. Mazda has multiple rubber seals on their thermostat. Universal products are often a good thing. In this case OEM is the ONLY way to go!
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