Is there a special way to remove the rear rotor? And I'm having trouble compressing the piston on the rear caliper in order to replace pads. Is there a special tool or technique that will allow me to do it myself.
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Re: Changing rear breaks
Try tapping around the rotor hat (the area that actually fits over the hub, where the lug bolt holes are) with a hammer. That usually will loosen up a rotor that's stuck due to heat, dust, etc. As for compressing the rear piston, they're a screw-in design, not a compression design like the front calipers. You need a piston retracting set (you can borrow them from AutoZone), and with that you can screw the pistons into the calipers. After removing the reservoir cap underhood, screw them all the way in so that you have ample clearance for the new pads over the new rotors, then pump the brakes a few times before you hit the road (put the reservoir cap back on first).
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A special tool is required to compress the caliper piston on the rear brakes-don't use a C-clamp on the piston. Raise the vehicle and remove the tire. The rear calipers have only one guide pin. Remove this pin and raise the caliper. Remove the old brake pads. Using the special tool compress the caliper piston-the piston will have one or two slots on it. These slots must in the correct position to remount the caliper. Install the new brake pads and slide the caliper back over the rotor and replace the guide pin. If the caliper doesn't slide over the rotor you'll need to reset the slots on the piston. Replace the tires and you're ready to go.
Those are special calipers. The piston cannot be just compressed back into the caliper - it needs to be turned as it is compressed or you can ruin the caliper.There is a kit you can rent from AutoZone or many independent auto parts stores that will perform both functions at the same time. Block fron wheels and raise vehicle passenger side. Remove wheel. The caliper is on the top rear side of the assembly you're looking at.There are 2 long bolts you'll need to remove to take the caliper off the vehicle. Don't remove the brake line or open the bleeder screw ( either of these moves will add to your work!! ) Insert a large flat blade screwdriver in between the rotor and outboard brake pad and pry away from the vehicle slightly to release the pads from the rotor. Slide caliper upwards and towards the back of the vehicle to separate from rotor. The pads will come in a full set ( all 4 pads for both side of the rear ) . Look at your replacement pads and determine if they have a retainer clip holding them in place or a compression clip. Remove outboard pad first then inboard. Match old pads to replacement pads. Inspect rotor for grooves and irregular surfaces - if any grooves or irregularity present, remove rotor and take to an auto parts store for refinishing.Compress caliper piston with kit and allow 5 minutes for pressure to bleed back into the master cylinder.install rotor if removed and wipe surfaces with brake clean. Install inboard then outboard pad and place caliper on rotor, then mount to vehicle. Install wheel, repeat procedure for drivers side, then PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 5 TIMES BEFORE TRYING TO DRIVE VEHICLE to set pads on rotors.
There's a special tool required to compress the rear caliper pistons. You may want to rent the tool. If you look at the piston you'll see one or two notches. The special tool has nipples to fit these notches. The caliper piston will have to be compressed with the tool and the notches will have to be placed in the o'clock and 6 o'clock for the brake pads to slide over the rotor. If you rent the special tool have the renter show you how to use it.
The Rear Calipers Must be TURNED CLOCKWISE untill Completly Retracted this will Allow for Space needed to FitOver Rotor Thickness this is For Rears Only.If you Do NOT Have the SPECIAL TOOL Required for this You Can Use CHANNEL-LOCK PLIERS as Long as you Closely WATCH For The RUBBER BOOT And DO NOT DAMAGE IT This Is The Solution You NEED for your Problem. Have a Good Day !!
The rear calipers on these models require a special tool that compresses and turns the piston in at the same time -- most parts stores carry this tool. It is called a caliper piston press -- and it installs where the pads would go and acts like a c-clamp,when turning handle it will turn the caliper piston backinto the caliper as it compresses it. Anytime the brake rotor or brake pads are being replaced, the rear caliper piston must be seated (bottomed) to compensate for the new brake rotor or lining. Because the Parking Brake self-adjuster mechanism is attached to the piston, a special seating method is required. The only acceptable method is by rotating the piston back into the bore using Retractor,MILLER Special Tool 8807, . Any other seating method will damage the self-adjuster mechanism. Good luck and hope this helps.
When you replace the pads you have to retract the pistons into the bore. As the pads wear they stay extended from the brake caliper. The new thinkness of the pads will not allow the pads the slip over the rotors until you retract the pistons. Your pistons may be the type that have to be turned back into the bore.Good luck.
1. Jack up and remove tire
2. Remove 2 brake caliper mounting bolts
3. Remove caliper and hang out of way with wire
4. Remove rotor, if stuck hit on all sides with a rubber mallet until it breaks loose.
5. Install new rotor
6. Remove old pads from caliper
7. Using a c-clamp and a block of wood against caliper piston, compress piston until it is flush w/caliper
8. Install new pads in same location as old pads
9. Reinstall caliper, may have to nudge it into place with rubber mallet
10. Reinstall tire.
note: There are no bearings to grease. You must replace the entire hub assembly if yours are worn.