I have a 323 IS..clutch pedal stays down has no pressure...filled up brake reservoir still has no pressure...the other day clutch pedal pressed half way down before it engages..parked the car over night following day pedal goes all the way down and does not engage..
The master cylinder located under the dash and connected to the pedal may be malfunctioning. Try bleeding the slave underneath the car first, Be sure your brake fluid is clean also. If the fluid is dirty or muddy looking, it is possible the fluid has "eaten" some of the rubber parts in the master and/or slave cylinder. Flush the system and be sure & use a good quality fluid.
The pedal is directly connected to the master cylinder and if it doesn't come up then it's probably going to be a master cylinder problem if you have bled the system & it still malfunctions.
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Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.
1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.
4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.
5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.
6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.
7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.
8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.
9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.
10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT
1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.
2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.
3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).
4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.
5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.
NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.
6. Turn on the service filling machine.
7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).
8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.
9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.
10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.
11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.
12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.
13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.
14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.
15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.
If you're talking about an hydraulic clutch system that uses brake fluid:
1. Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid. 2. Have an assistantpull the clutch pedal up and leave it there. 3. Locate the slave bleeder - the slave is connected to the master, is located on the transmission housing and pushes the clutch release lever). 4. Open the bleeder and have the assistant push the clutch pedal down. 5. Close the bleeder. 6. Make sure there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir 7. Repeat steps 2-4-5-6 until brake fluid comes out with uniform pressure from the bleeder. Non uniform pressure is sign there may be air in the system. There should be good pressure at the pedal now in the up position. Pressing it should disengage the clutch.
it sounds like the clutch master is bad it will look something like the brake master cylinder on the fire wall.you can try bleeding it there before replacing the clutch master loosen the lineup have have someone pump the pedal a couple times if you get agood shot of fluid have the person hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the line back up then bleed the system at the bleeder.
on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.
Honda uses hydrolic clutches. Pop the hood and there should be a reservoir of "clutch fluid" (clutch systems use brake fluid) next to the brake fluid reservoir. It will be marked DOT 3 just fill that up with brake fluid and you'll be good to go.
It is most likely a hydraulic clutch, and it is most likely leaking at the clutch slave cylinder. Check the clutch master cylinder for fluid, it should be a small master cylinder looking thing with a fill cap next to the brake master cylinder and booster unit. If it is empty fill it with the same dot 3 brake fluid that you use for your brake master cylinder, and make sure that you are pouring the fluid into the clutch master cylinder reservoir and not the rubber seal that should be under the fill cap. After filling the clutch master cylinder up with fluid, then try and pump up the clutch pedal. It might take a while to pump up hydraulic pressure, and you might also have to work the pedal a few times by hand at first.
Also, you might have to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder if it will not build up enough pressure to release the clutch.
first fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid.get some body to help you.besure dont let clutch reservoir fluid get low during this procedure.get a clear vinyl tube.connect it to bleeder plug on slave cylinder.put the other end of vinyl tube in a container filled with half clean brake fluid.now get helper to open bleed screw on slave cylinder just a hair.now you pump clutch pedal 10 to 15 times.with out bringing pedal the full way up.do this until you see no air bubbles in vinyl tube.when all air is out.before tighten bleed screw make sure you keep slight pressure on clutch pedal to keep air from going back in line.when job complete clutch pedal fill firm check slave cylinder brake fluid level. check for leaks.you all set to go.
Your accord has a hydraulic clutch system. The reason you pedal isn't coming back up is it is low on fluid. You will need to add DOT3 Brake fluid to the brake reservoir, or the clutchreservoir if there is one. sometimes manufacturers use the brake reservoir to do both. The clutch resirvoir is right next to the brake reservoir and is smaller. you may need to bleed the system after topping off. Thanks, and don't forget to vote
Still have air in system.. Try this: Pull pedal up,fill reservoir to the top, open bleed nipple on slave cyl all the way,leave for a while to "gravity feed" keeping the reservoir full,& an eye on the nipple, until all bubbles are expelled and clean brakefluid drips out(could take a few minutes). Close the nipple, and bleed system as usual....