Question about 2004 Saturn ION
I turn the key and the lights come on but it won't crank
Sounds like it is the ignition switch. You need to purchase a new switch from the dealer and make sure that it is a redesigned one, or at least get their guarantee that the new one will not fail.
There is most likely a build up of grease inside the switch. This is a design flaw with the factory switches, but has apparently been fixed with new switches from the dealer. Like I said, just make sure it is a new one when you are buying it from the dealer. You will need to perform a Passlock Relearn once the new switch is installed.
The old ignition switch will need to be replaced. If you feel like saving yourself some money and do it yourself the follow the instructions below.
1. Remove cover behind the steering wheel
2. Unplug the switch and unscrew the two torx bolts
3. Install new switch by reversing process.
Any time a component in the Passlock system is changed, the learn procedure must be completed for the Theft Deterrent System to sync the password. The procedure requires no special tech tools or computers.
30 Minute Learn Procedure
1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON, vehicle will not start.
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale light, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale light will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes, the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.
You should be good to go. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
I've learned today that this problem of not starting - even though the battery is fine - has been occurring even with replacement ignition switches. The dealer will charge about $200 to do the replacement, but as you can see in DJ Easyline's instructions, above, it's quite easy to do. You should expect to pay roughly $30 for the ignition switch. However, i've run into multiple people who have had that done and the problem came back.
This morning I found a website called www.nopasslock.com and they sell a module to disable/bypass the PassLock system. It costs $69.95. Everyone who experienced the no-start issue, which typically resolves after a 10-min reset, has had the issue go away permanently after using a bypass.
I'm handy enough to do the replacement ignition, but am not sure if that's the best route to follow. I have a 2003 Saturn Ion 1 that just turned 44,000 miles. Otherwise the car is fantastic and a joy to own. I drive 6-7K per year max and bought it in Feb 2008.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
If the car won't start, check the basic things first:
Is the battery OK? Read the next paragraph for a simple way to check battery.
If the car doesn't start with the automatic transmission in "Park", does it start in "Neutral"? Sometimes a car won't start in "Park" but starts in "Neutral" because of a problem with a neutral safety switch.
Are the battery cables tight and not corroded?
Is there enough fuel in the tank? It's a common situation when the fuel gauge isn't working properly and the car runs out of fuel with the fuel gauge still showing some fuel in the tank. Check signs of low fuel level on the second page of this guide.
Does your car have an anti-theft system that for some reason doesn't allow the car to be started?
No lights on the instrument panel If you turn the ignition on and no Car Lights come on at the instrument panel means that there is no power coming from the battery. It could be a dead battery or often a bad ignition switch could cause this. Turn the headlights on, if they work, means the battery has power, so the problem could be with the ignition switch or wiring between the ignition switch and battery.
Posted on Aug 10, 2011
I also have the same starting issues with the temperature and the anti-theft.. waiting 8-10 mins then trying again usually does the trick..
Recently I did not want to wait so I opened the hood and removed the big square fuses and put them back in, then the car started... so something to try if your frustrated..
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
The lights come on but is the battery ok, it can have enough power the light the lights but no crank the engine, have it tested.
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: won`t crank
check your fuel pressure and also check your plug gaps and make sure you have a stong spark, you say it stays running once started on ether? does it run well or poorly? is it drivable or not please explain in more detail -please rate -jeff
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
SOURCE: motor cranks but won,t start
hes right check the ignition control module.i had to replace mine because my cavalier would start fine one minute and the next it would be idling rough and backfiring. your best bet is to replace the control module.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
The starter is turning only when the solenoid close the contact to deliver the current to the starter . When this happens it then turns the bendix to engage with the flying wheel to start the engine.
The reason that you need higher voltage to have correct needed current going through the contact of the solenoid, hence the starter. The contact is corroded or rusty due to high spark at high current at every start time causing high resistance. V=IR the R resistance of the contact now is high so it need higher voltage (14.3 vs, 12.8 V) to deliver the same needed current for the starter.
Unfortunately, the solenoid is integrated with the starter, so you can not just replace the solenoid without replacing the starter.
If you can find the new battery holding at 14.3 V as you mentioned, then that is an economical solution since replacing the starter is costing more.
BTW where can I find the battery at 14.3V in case my friend's car has a same problem?
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
It's possible that the wire that connects the starter to the battery has corrosion/battery acid on it and is creating a lot of resistance in the wire. Sometimes you'll have a good connection, sometimes you'll have a bad connection thus creating an intermittent problem. You should check the wire that hooks into the starter, disconnect it, clean it with a small, wire bristle brush, and maybe spray some of that red, battery terminal spray on it, then hook it back up. Make sure you disconnect the battery first. It's pretty hard to get down in there but you can save yourself a ton of money if you do it yourself. You may be able to reach it better from underneath if you drive the car up on some ramps.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
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