Question about 1988 Daihatsu Charade

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Low idling on daihatsu charade 83 model

I have replaced the timing belt, set valve timing and ignition timing. starts but idles unevenly with foot on accelerator. does not want to accelerate. please assist

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  • jlgilfellow Oct 13, 2008

    the car have been serviced and the top gasket replaced. we also replaced the cam belt. after reassembling everything i made a mistake with the wire going to the carb and the condensor. i swoped the wires and when i started the car, smoke came out. whein i checked the wire leading to the distributor was burnt. i replace the condensor and after that the car does not idle when i start up. i have checked and everything is in its place and the gap on the points is also correct.

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My first thouhts are your ignition is still your problem, but upu haven't made it clear if the problem exists only when the engine is cold.

On the Charde you must push the pedal down before pulling the choke lever for the choke and fast idle linkages to engage... then start the engine.

The idle circuit consists of an emulsion tube and a solenoid. The solenoid is on the back of the carby and has a green wire running to it. If there isn't 12 volts on this at startup you wont be able to get the engine to idle without pedal assistance.

The carburettor also has an acceleration plunger that squirts a shot of fuel into the engine when trying to increase speed. This has a concetrina boot that can leak. It is situated on to op the carby.

The vacuum hoses need to connected correctly, especially one of the distributor hoses. That one must be connected to AD port on the carby. The following diagram is one of my modified layouts, but should work satifactorily. It is configured so that you can set the ignition timing a little more advanced than factory. When you set the timing make sure both hoses to the dizzy are removed and blocked. You adjust the dizzy position until the dimple on the flywheel lines up with the notch in the timing plate above.

Diagram here

For a test try blocking the hose coming from the oil cap to the bottom of the carby. The cap is also a PCV valve and if it's not clean it can allow excess air into the engine at idle.

My feeling is your points gap is not correct. It should be about the thickness of a hacksaw blade when open. The rubbing block on the points is notorious for rapid wear if hi temp grease hasn't been applied to the rotor lobes. A small gap will cause arcing under load and not provided sufficient dwell time for the coil to charge, resulting in a weak spark, missing, over fueling and lack of acceleration.

I also recommend you replace the plugs with Bosch Super 4's. They will last you a very long time and tend to be very forgiving with older worn engines.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

  • ChasDaihard Oct 14, 2008

    OK if i understand it correctly, you joined the wire from the coil to the fuel cut solenoid and joined the wire that should have gone to the fuel cut solenoid to the dizzy?



    If so you would would have put 12 volts across the points, effectively shorting to ground everytime the points closed. I am suprised you didn't blow the 15 amp "engine" fuse.... have you checked this? If ithe wire has burned insulation in the engine bay, it's probably burned in the harness also and may have heated up the fuse terminals too.



    Try unplugging the green wire on the carb and see if there is 12 volts when you have the ignition keyed to on.

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