My 95 Mustang had a Dorman Electric Cooling Fan fitted. The motor burnt out and have given up trying to find a new one in Australia so I brought a Davies, Craig universal fan. The problem is the old fan has3 wires (1 black & 2 red) and the new one has 2. Can I wire it in.
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most 93 to 95 have viscus clutch not electric fan (A/C evap fan sure) but some do have the Aux fan too. and the PCM reports DTC errors, if the relay fails. did it? report that?
ok the 95 XJ with 4.0 does have fan.... have FSM in hand.
If the ECT has air pockets it well never report hot temps.
it will not energize the Fan relay if the ECT fibs. for any reasons.
page 35 Chapter 7
the viscous fan locksup at (165° to 180° F).
the electric fan is as follows.
i guess you never looked in the PDC before or its lables "The fan is controlled by the cooling
fan relay, which is located in the power distribution
center (PDC). For the location of relay within
the PDC (Fig. 41), refer to the label on PDC cover" and now AUX Fan , quote2.
"When coolant temperature is above 88°C (190°F),
the powertrain control module (PCM) provides a
ground path for the fan relay. This ground is provided
through pin/connector #31 of the PCM 60-way
connector. Battery voltage is then applied to the fan
through the relay. When coolant temperature is below
88°C (190°F), the PCM opens the ground path to
the relay. This will prevent the cooling fan from being
energized. Whenever the air conditioning is operated, the
PCM engages the auxiliary cooling fan
given these facts? why not turn on A/C and end the guessing.
I use my scan tool , and innova 3140 for jeep OBD1.
it shows me what he pcm sees for ECT readings
if the engine is at 100C and the ECT shows way lower
its bad. or has air pockets around it,
no ect runs in air and works, none,.
if say the ECT is at 100C and the fan relay is not closed
the relay is bad or ECU driver to it blown. (bad ecu)
if the relay coil is hot, and the fan is not the relay is bad.
if the relay is closed and 12vdc out of it, then fan is dead.
if the fan is good (hot wired), and the relay out is hot , the wires are bad from relay to fan.
a $10 voltmeter and the guessing ends.
you can check the cooling fan by disconnecting the plug at the motor and run jumper wires from the battery directly to the fan motor it should run if its working if it doesn`t run then the cooling fan motor needs replacing. if it does run then check the plug for a bad connection. other things can cause this like the cooling fan relay, the coolant sensor that sends a signal for the computer to turn on the cooling fan by sending a signal to the relay.
the cooling fan itself maybe your problem, high resistance due to the motor being internally shorted but not totally gone, sounds like it my let you down shortly, I'd replace the cooling fan motor and burnt connector.
The most common cause for the cooling fan fuse to blow is a bad cooling fan motor. The failng motor will draw an excessive amount of current which actually heats up the fuse and melts it. Now if your fuse is blowing the instant the cooling fan(s) turn on, then that could be a "dead short". either inside the cooling fan motor or in the wiring going to it. Follow and inspect the wiring leading to the cooling fan motor. Check for any broken, cracked or burnt wires. If you don't see any of that, then you'll probably need a new motor. If you think you can tackle the job, most auto parts stores sell generic replacement cooling fan motors much less than you would pay at the dealership.
WARNING! - some cooling fan motors are easy to get to, and others are very difficult. Study yours carefully and then decide if you want to tackle the job before you start tearing it apart.
CAUTION The fan that draws cool air across the radiator can be driven by either a belt or electricity. Rotating fans can be dangerous. Some are controlled by an automatic switch and can start unexpectedly. When working on electric fans, keep in mind that electric cooling fans should be disconnected when working around them.
When replacing a radiator fan motor, always refer to the vehicle's service manual. The following is a general guide for cooling fan replacement.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal at the battery. This is necessary on vehicles using electric fans, but some vehicles may require the relocation of the charging system components.
Drain the cooling system.
Loosen or remove the hose clamps, then remove the upper and lower hoses from the radiator.
Disconnect the transmission cooling lines and plug them off, if equipped.
Disconnect the electric fan motor connector, if equipped.
Remove the fasteners attaching the fan module to the radiator.
On some vehicles equipped with air conditioning systems, it may be necessary to discharge the system. This is the case if the radiator and condenser can not be separated in the vehicle.
Remove the upper radiator cross member or mounts.
Disconnect and plug the air conditioning lines at the condenser, if needed.
Remove the radiator and fan module as one unit if possible.
Separate the fan module from the radiator.
If required, separate the radiator from the condenser.
Remove the old fan module.
Install the new fan module onto the radiator.
Reattach the fasteners attaching the fan module to the radiator.
If equipped, connect the electric fan motor connector.
Your overheating problems can have several possible causes. 1) Airlock in heating system - solution - bleed air from cooling system.
2) Radiator blocked - solution - drain and flush radiator 3) Failed waterpump - solution - fit new waterpump 4) Engine thermostat stuck in closed position - solution - fit new thermostat 5) Electric cooling fan (if fitted) failing to operate - solution - check fan, fan operating switch, all wiring and connectors 6) Not enough coolant in system - solution - check and top up to required level. Also check all hoses for sign of leakage. 7) Faulty temperature gauge giving incorrect reading.
the cooling fan is a one speed motor. operates only with key on.
The integrated control module (ICM) and the engine computer control the fan.
on at 102 degree C (@ 230 F), off at 99 degrees C (@ 230 F).
You have 3 fusible links, 2 18 gage brown and on 20 gage dark blue providing power to the ICM. You should ahve 12 volts the pink/black wire, the black/orange wire and the yellow wire going into the ICM.
First, jumper 12 volts from the battery directly to the terminal on the motor where the dark blue wire goes. Make sure the black wire is grounded. If the fan works, check the items above.
I can sell you this Ford wiring diagram book for a 91 Mustang for $10 if you are interested.
please rate as solved if this helps you, thanks.