Engine idles fine until engine warms up and choke butterfly opens, then it misses. I just installed a new carbeurator hoping this would solve the problem. The problem is some better, but still idles ragged. HELP, please!
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Re: 1985 Toyota Pickup 22R
When the engine is running ragged, place your hand over the opening of the carburator. If the idle smooths out, you have a vacuum leak somewhere on the intake system; it could be the base gasket for the carb, the intake manifold gasket, or a broken vacuum line, or a combination of that. What you have is too much air getting into the engine, but the air is not going thru the carb. Please check for vacuum leaks, you can use a can of carb cleaner, spray the intake manifold, if the idle smooths up, that would be a good place to start.
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Be sure the hook on the bimetallic spring contacts the choke shaft lever.
Install the cover and retainer and lightly tighten the screws.
Turn the ceramic element to align the mark on it with the middle mark on the housing.
The engine must be cold to make this adjustment.
Remove the air cleaner.
Find the automatic choke. It's the round thing on the upper right-hand of the carburetor. There is a wire coming to it from the positive side of the coil.
Note: The automatic choke is a round ceramic thing with the heating element wound inside of it. (The ceramic part may be covered with metal so that it looks just like the rest of the carburetor.) The choke is held in position by a triangular ring clamp and three screws so it can be loosened and rotated for adjustment.
Pull the throttle arm on the left side of the carburetor down to free the little step arm (cam) that the screw at the top of the throttle lever rests on.
Note: This stepped "cam" is connected to the butterfly valve inside the throat of the carburetor by a shaft that extends all the way into the automatic choke. With the engine cold, the butterfly valve should be closed. As the engine warms up, the coil inside the automatic choke uncoils, opens the butterfly valve, and moves the cam to reduce the idle speed.
Release the throttle arm so that the return spring snaps it back. The little screw at the top of the throttle arm (again, with the engine cold) should now rest on the top step of the stepped cam. This sets the hi-idle, which is needed together with the choke on a cold engine to provide sufficient idle speed to keep the engine running until it warms up fully.
Loosen the three screws on the right side that hold the choke in place.
Keep your eye on the butterfly valve in the carburetor throat.
Turn the choke element clockwise (viewed from the right) until the butterfly is standing straight up, then turn the choke counterclockwise (viewed from the right) until the choke butterfly fully closes (barely -- not too tightly), then tighten the three screws that hold the choke in place.
Note: This is important; the automatic choke may be assembled wrong and not catching the hook on the coil spring at all.
Start the engine with the air cleaner off. As the engine warms up, make sure that the butterfly opens until it is standing straight up (full open) when the engine is fully warm. If it doesn't, readjust the choke until you get it right.
Note: The engine is now warm, so you won't be able to adjust the choke per the foregoing. Note the position of the notch on the side of the choke relative to the three little ridges on the body of the carburetor. If the butterfly is too far closed with the engine warm, turn the choke clockwise just a bit to straighten it up. The notch on the choke should never be too far outside of the three ridges on the body of the carburetor. If you are not able to adjust the choke using these method, something may be sticking, or perhaps the coil spring inside the canister is broken, or perhaps the wire has fallen off of the contact on the canister so that it is not getting power from the battery properly.
repost with the spec differences beween the two engines Im a bit foggy here..Im thinkin one had or has intake restrictor plates under the intake for not letting hot gasses enter under the carb mount...
should adjust the butterfly to about 3/8" opening at 50 degrees farenheit when engine is cold. Usually about 1 mark to the lean side on the choke spring housing. If unsure set the choke to the center mark than richen up one mark at a time until the engine starts and idles up when cold after properly setting choke by fully depressing and releasing the accelerator before cranking. If it doesn't idle up enough turn up the fast idle screw 1/2 turn at a time. Another common problem with the YFA is the choke heat riser tube rusting off at the manifold and the choke not unloading when the engine warms. Install a new riser tube after using a drill bit the same diameter as the tube to drill out the remainder of the old tube in manifold before inserting the new tube and attaching to choke housing.
Toyota engines have a built in TSTV- thermo controlled vacuum system where vacuum is applied to the choke system in various levels as according to the temp. of the engine. If the TSTV is faulty or if the vacuum pipes are incorrectly placed then you have a choke which is not opening up properly. Fuel is thus not burnt completely and due to the incomplete combustion there is a formation of soot on your exhaust. Try to get the choke to open up in relation to the temp of the engine. The fuel/air ratio alse needs to be checked ( idle mixture control) once you have the vacuum system working properly.
I'm not exactly sure about the 1987 toyota choke, but the basic concept of a choke is that the butterfly(flap in top of the carburetor) needs to close to allow less air and more fuel to enter the intake when the engine is cold. This is acomplished on most carburetors with an electric choke thermostat. The thermostat has a bimetallic spring that is would up and connected to the butterfly through a rod. The bimetallic spring is made of a special allow that expands and contracts as the temperature changes. Usually through a relay of some sort 12v or less is applied to the choke thermostat with the engine running and used to heat the spring therefor releasing tension on the closed butterfly. It sounds like your butterfly is never opening as the engine is warming up, and staying on fast idle. See if there is a wire on the thermostat and remove it and check it with a voltmeter with the car running, there should be >8vDc. If there's voltage then the thermostat is probably faulty(as long as the linkage is ok) If there is no voltage, check the fuses and fuse links and then consult a schematic to see where the voltage is suppiled from/to, could be a faulty relay as well.
in your carburetor there is a priming passage. look in there with the air cleaner out and pump the butterfly it should squirt gas. if it doesn't then you need to open the top part of the carb and clean the hole with a hair clip. if this is not the problem it will be the choke but I'm 70 percent that this is the problem.
There ar two thermo vacuum switches on the intake manifold,one in the center top by the EGR pipe right next to the valve cover,and one center bottom on the outside right below the carburator,it may be that one of them is not fully opening/closing when the motor is cold.I'm not sure on this as I've never had this problem with my 22R's,hopefully this will point you in the right direction,if you want comment back and I'll research this further(it's 5 in the morn and I cant access my 22r manual)
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the rubber fuel lines being old and cracked. The hoses would warm up and fuel would squirt out of the cracks. I had to replace three fuel line hoses and it has been running great ever since. Good luck.