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Re: remove rear axel
You don't have to remove the whole axle just the hub assembly this is held on by 4 bolts. remove wheel. then remove drum/ or rotor remove all the brake hardware. remove outer dust cap to bearings remove center nut and remove outter bearing. remove the hub this will give you plenty of room to remove the broken bolt. please rate this
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jack up rear of car and place on jackstands. remove rear wheels there is two bolts that hold strut to the wheel assembly also unbolt brake line bracket now inside of car is top of strut tower there is a plastic cosmetic cover once removed there are three bolts to be undone. DO NOT LOOSEN CENTER BOLT. strut will drop out with a little manouevering. Use strut spring compressor to remove strut springs. and reinstall on new struts be sure to follow all safety instructions and warnings. autozone rents this tool, or take to shop to have someone do this part of job for you. now installation of strut is opposite of removal. hope this helps
A Sunfire is front wheel drive, so there should not be a rear axle. There is a rear strut, the hub and bearing is bolted to the trailing arm and strut. The tire and wheel bolt to the hub. I would get two estimates for repairs before making a decision. It could have under-body damage too.
REMOVE**** FRONT SHOCKS, FIRST OF ALL.SUPPORT THE LOWER CONTROL ARM WITH A JACK,REMOVE FRONT WHEEL, REMOVE BRAKE HOSE AND ABS SENSOR HARNESS TO THE STRUT BOLTS OR CLIPS,REMOVE ACTUATOR FROM TOP OF THE STRUT,IF EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC ADJUSTING SUSPENSION. PAINT ALIGNMENT MARKS ON THE UPPER STRUT MOUNTING BLOCK AND STRUT TOWER AND ON THE LOWER STRUT MOUNT TO STEERING KNUCKLE SO THAT CAN BE REINSTALLED IN THE SAME POSITION. REMOVE UPPER STRUT MOUNTING NUTS, REMOVE THE STRUT TO KNUCKLE BOLTS,REMOVE STRUT ASSEMBLY.TO INSTALL ***** INSTALL STRUT INTO THE STRUT TOWER ALIGNING THE PAINT MARKS MADE DURING REMOVAL.INSTALL UPPER MOUNTING NUTS AND TIGHTEN TO 34 - 46 FT LBS. INSTALL STRUT TO KNUCKLE BOLTS TIGHTEN TO 55 - 61 FT LBS. INSTALL ACTUATOR AND ENGAGE THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR IF EQUIPPED WITH AAS. INSTALL BRAKE HOSE AND ABS SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS OR BOLTS.INSTALL WHEEL AND CHECK ADJUST THE FRONT END ALIGNMENT. TO ( REPLACE REAR SHOCKS ) REMOVE REAR WHEELS, REMOVE REAR PACKAGE TRIM. REMOVE SPEED SENSOR HARNESS, REMOVE TOP STRUT NUTS,THE SUSPENSION WILL DROP WHEN THE WEIGHT LIFTS OFF THE WHEELS. REMOVE BOTTOM STRUT BOLTS.REMOVE STRUT ASSEMBLY.TO INSTALL ***** INSTALL STRUT ASSEMBLY, INSTALL BOTTOM STRUT MOUNT BOLTS AND TIGHTEN TO 55 - 61 FT LBS.INSTALL UPPER MOUNTING NUTS AND TIGHTEN TO 33 - 46 FT LBS. INSTALL SPEED SENSOR HARNESS.INSTALL REAR PACKAGE TRIM. INSTALL REAR WHEELS.
Struts are pretty easy to remove. 3 nuts in trunk under carpet then there are 2 bolts with nuts that hold the bottom to the rear axel. then 1 stabalizer bolt. Once the nuts are off the 2 bottom bolts you drive them out with a hammer. They are tapered so that hammer wont hurt them.
Hope this helps and please don't forget to rate! Thank you!
Front ball joint with heat shield
Remove and Replace-
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the ball joint heat shield.
Remove and discard the lower ball joint cotter pin.
Remove the ball joint nut.
Loosen, but do NOT remove, the stabilizer shaft bushing assembly bolts.
Separate the ball joint from the strut/knuckle assembly using ball joint/tie rod puller J-35917 or equivalent.
Do NOT damage the halfshaft boots when drilling out the ball joint rivets.
Drill out the rivets retaining the ball joint to the knuckle strut assembly and remove the ball joint from the knuckle. Use a 1/8 in. drill bit. Refer to the instructions in the ball joint replacement kit.
Position the lower ball joint in the strut/knuckle assembly.
Install the four ball joint bolts and nuts, as shown in the ball joint kit and tighten to specifications.
Install the ball joint-to-lower control arm. Install a new ball joint-to-lower control arm nut.
Tighten the stabilizer shaft bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
For 1988-91 vehicles, tighten the ball joint-to-lower control arm nut 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus at least an additional 90° (11/2flats), plus enough to align the cotter pin hole. Do NOT overtighten.
For 1992-96 vehicles, tighten the lower ball joint nut to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm). Tighten to align the next slot in the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Do NOT tighten more than 60° (1 flat) to align with the hole.
Install a new cotter pin.
Position the ball joint heat shield and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
Install the front wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable and check for proper suspension operation
Hello, and welcome to FixYa. I'll be glad to help you out.
When you had the struts replaced, one of two things happened.
one - the rear strut retention bolts were not tightened up properly at the tops of the struts
two- the top supports on the struts were not replaced. Whenever we change the struts, we always replace the top supports. More than likely, this is your problem. The rear strut supports are notorious for wearing out, and, when they do, they make loud banging noises.
2004 Camry rear support part numbers:
I would suggest replacing the top supports to cure your problem.
1. You can replace the spindle = Expensive 2. You can use a small drill bit (cobalt) and drill though enough to use an extractor to remove the offending piece.
Suggestions to help might be to use a little PB Blaster and or heat on the bolt before trying to remove the offending piece before you attempt to remove it with an extractor. Take your time as you will most likely get only one chance to get it out.
Extractor sets are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight if you have one near you. You can insert the extractor from either side in the bolt hole.
Do you have bolt in axels? or are they held in with C- clips? If its bolt in axels you need to remove the bolts, and you may need an axel puller to get them out. If its got C- clips rear cover on rearend has to come off, and pin has to be removed to get C- clip out to get axel out.
have you tried useing an EZ out exstractor or left handed drill bits that can be picked up at any automotive store or tool store. If that does not work try completey drilling out the old bolt and rethread the hole for the bolt. If its on the strut and the bolt will be replaced with the new strut try useing a cut off tool to remove the bolt just to remove the strut and replace.