Rear drums usally have to be played with first spray some lubracant (WD40) on the center and around the studs. hit the face of the drum with a hamer in the spaces between the studs (with out hitting the studs) and tap the sides if there is movement then keep trying but if its not getting anywhere after 3 or 4 times you will have to loosen the slack adjuster or cut the anchor (retaining) pins
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IF your referring to the brake drum, then this is going to sound funny. Kick it hard, hit with hammer, all it needs is a few good hits or bumps if all things holding it on are removed, like your wheels. If a few good kicks don't dislidge it, try to remove tension on the brakes by turning the brake adjuster with a flat screwdriver till brakes are loose enough to remove the hub/drum by hand.
Hey there. This could be a few different things. I would start with the E brake. the cable could be locking the rear brakes. Are the rear brakes disc or drum brakes? If they are disc the calipers are held on with two bolts but more than likely they are drum brakes. There are a number of things that can break in a drum brake. There is usually 3 seperate springs that can break. As well as an adjutment for the tension on the shoes. The e brake retaining clip, the retaining clip for the shoes, etc. A good thing to go and get is a Repair Manual for the car. It will have a diagram of your brake setup. New hardwear and shoes are usually easy to get if somthing is broken. Start by pulling off the tire and try to remove the drum, If they are locked up as bad as it sounds you will probly need to use some force. Now on some cars there will be two bolt holes, you can use rhem. You will need to find two bolts that fit the threads then you tighten them down evanly, this will press the drum off the cae so you can see what is binding up your rear brakes. That shoul get on the right track to getting it fixed. Any questions just ask. Have a good day.
The best way would be to remove the wheel and see if you have drums or discs. Disc brakes on the rear will look like the front brakes, as discs are required on the front of 1970 vehicles and newer. You will see the rotor which will be shiny where the pads have rubbed it. On a drum, it will look like a rusty metal bowl facing away from you. If you have custom wheels you may be able to see through the spokes, but dust guards will not let you tell from the back.
Yes, Undo the 32mm nut, first.
And, don't get the bearings dirty with dust from the brake drums, or , if you do, replace the inner and outer bearings with new greased up ones.REAR DRUM BRAKES Brake Drums REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION Brake linings contain asbestos. Asbestos is a known cancer-causing agent. When working on brakes, remember that the dust which accumulates on the brake parts and/or in the drum contains asbestos. Always wear a protective face covering, such as a painter's mask, when working on the brakes. NEVER blow the dust from the brakes or drum.
Raise the vehicle and support safely.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
On vehicles without rear bearing hub, remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut lock, wheel bearing nut and washer from the spindle. Remove the outer wheel bearing. Remove the drum with the inner wheel bearing from the spindle. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes. Remove the grease seal.
If equipped with a rear bearing hub, remove the drum by removing the retainer screws from the drum and pulling the drum from the hub assembly. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes.
On vehicles equipped without rear bearing hub, lubricate and install the inner wheel bearing. Install a new grease seal. Install the drum to the spindle. Lubricate and install the outer wheel bearing, washer and nut. Adjust the bearing preload following the procedure outlined in the "Rear Wheel Bearing'' of this section. When the bearing preload is properly set, install the nut lock and a new cotter pin. Install the grease cap.
On vehicles with rear bearing hub, install the brake drum to the hub assembly and install the retaining screws.
Install the wheel and tire assembly. Adjust the rear brakes as required.
Apply the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained, prior to moving the vehicle.
Behind the backing plate of the wheel look for the adjusting hole . It is at the bottom end and has a rubber plug in it. Remove plug and use a brake spoon of screw driver and turn little gear looking thing inside hole. This will pull brake shoe away from drum. It will turn for what seems a long time but just keep going until it stops. Then try to remove drum may have to use hammer. If not turn in other direction until it stops and try again to remove drum, with a hammer until it comes off
Most of the time with the rear brakes locking up the brake drums are warpped. If you remove the rear brake drums and take them to almost any auto parts store (Napa, Checkers ect.) they will turn the drums for about $10 a piece.
After you have the drums turned you will need to readjust the rear brakes.
i think your aware of how to change the brakes if im right and your problem is the rusted drum doesnt want to come off the only way to get the old drum off is to remove adjuster plug from behind drum dustshield and adjust the shoes so that there not even close to the braking area of the drum then try and wiggle the drum off of the assembly if it is not coming off then you need to use the old nylon hammer on the drum and i mean you must hit the drum from side to side trying by hand to wiggle the drum off its a tight fit and you need to strike the drum on the face not on the fins not wanting to damage with persistance and care and patience you will eventually be able to remove the drum to service brakes take care and good luck with it