The heater fan is located under the plastic panel at the bottom of the windscreen. To change it start off by lifting the bonnet until it's completely vertical (lift it open then press the "Tabs" on the bonnet hinges), next pull off the rubber seal that runs across the bulkhead. Undo the x head screws that secure the plastic panel, there are also 2 white plastic clips which just pullout towards the engine (they may have aleady been lost if the cars ever had a new wiper motor fitted). Once the the plasic panel is out of the way, remove the wiper mechanism and below it you will see a curved black plasic panel. The heater motor is below that. It's held by 3X 7mm bolts on the left side. Good luck!
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It could be ur thermostate, that was happening to my 94 lexus es300, and the gasket was stuck in thermostate preventing it from opening up all the way, that or ur heater core needs to get flushed, what temp does ur gauge say inside the car?
This sounds like the thermostat needs replacing as long as the radiator has the proper coolant level. If your vehicle has a temperature guage watch it to see if it is at normal operating temperature after the warm up period. If the temperature goes up and down or doesn't reach what is the normal temperature that is the problem. Normally a bad thermostat will stay open which causes the engine temperature to be much cooler than normal thus no heat.
If you are asking about the fan inside your car,
The device you are talking about is the heater core. It is connected by hoses to the engine, where hot coolant from your engine produces heat. If you mean the under hood fan, behind it and in front of it are your radiator, and AC condenser coil.
there are actually 3 temp sensors. 1 is on the top of the engine that goes to temp gauge in dash has 1 wire. next to it is a 3 wire sensor for engine control and choke. on the bottom of the radiator next to the hose is a 2 wire sensor. loosen all 3 but leave connected. get engine hot past halfway point on dash gauge. with ac off disconnect 1 sensor at time. start with 2 wire under radiator. it takes the most abuse. fan will come on when you disconnect broken sensor. 2sensor must agree for fan to stay on till engine cools when turned off. note this is solution i used after verifying fuses, fuseable links and relays worked.WOO HOO! make sure you check both the fuse box under hood and fuse boxleft side of steering wheel my ECU fuse was inside my bros was outside.ECU B on my car goes to nothing and is under hood. Had it confused with ECU on wiring diagram.DOH!
It is under the glove compartment - get down there and look up and you will see a round thing. The fan may be good, it could be a relay (at least it was in my 94 maxima).
Relays are the big blue things to the right of the fuse (by passenger door - not under hood). You will have to remove a body panel to get them (a few screws). Not sure which one it the fan, but over the years my cruise control failed (see my post under 1994 maxima under gummydmilo - was a typo). My instrument panel failed. And the fan so I ended up replacing all the relays.
If you remove the fan, you can hook it up to 12 volts (the car battery), if and see if it spins - just be careful.
well my 94 just blew a belt and they all seem to run on the same main pully. As i just learned these belts need replacing, especially the timing belt. its only good for 70000 miles. If its beyond that and the timing belt gets strecthed even a 1/4 inch it can throw off the timing and much more and make your car turn pretty gutless. If the timing belt brakes, there is a good chance it can permanetly damage the engine valves. If the timing belt is weak, it may affect idle when the ac needs to be turned as well?