No check engine light on. when it comes to a stop it idles rough, and the oil light blinks the more i throttle the louder it gets.. knock is very loud until about 45 mph then it quiets down a little but still noticeable. oil is topped off, same with coolant. it does sound like there is something moving around inside in the engine. im thinking blown rod? bearing? ehhh.. any help would be much appreciated. thanks.
First of all, stop driving it. Second of all, it may be that your oil pump may be going out, however unless you are a mechanic, I wouldn't go any further.
How To Replace GM Passlock Ignition Key Lock Cylinder...
NOTE These instructions and pictures...
SOURCE: 1986 FORD 300 SIX CYLINDER ENGINE KNOCKS
Hi Bill 609!
Definitely sound like a rod insert to me. With my practiced ear, I cna tell the difference between a main bearing knock (deeper sound, more of a thudding noise), rod bearing knock (not so deep, gets louder as the engine revs, kind of a rat-tat-tat-tapping noise), and a wrist-pin knock (not quite as loud or deep and gets louder with decelerating RPM).
You can tell which cylinder the knock is on by removing the spark wires to each cylinder one at a time while the engine is still cold enough to knock. (Don't get shocked!)... when you hit the right one, the knock will noticeably quieten or possibly quit altogether!
The 300 Six is a tough old motor and I have seen them survive for years with rod knocks... Just allow the engine ample warm-up time before driving, drive on the conservative side, and keep an eye on oil level and pressure.
An oil and filter change to a higher viscosity oil with a can of STP Oil Treatment (Or something similar) is a good band-aid fix for now, I would recommend Castrol GTX 20/50w... in my opinion, Castrol is the best brand out there, I use it religiously - - - I have a customer with a Chevy Suburban who has followed my advice and adhered to good maintenance discipline that has racked up over 300,000 miles on the original small block and no consumption or engine issues, and is still running strong!
Bill, the temporary fix will work for a while, hopefully a long while --- BUT when it reaches the point that the knock doesn't go away, it is time to park it until the real repair can be done --- otherwise you risk throwing a rod and destroying your engine beyond repair!!!
Please don't hesitate to post a comment or ask if you have further questions. I hope this information answers your question and concerns and wish you well with the Ford. *** And remember to rate my assistance... Your rating is my only compensation for helping you in the free blog!!!***
Thanks!
-WildBill
SOURCE: 2002 Ford Focus
you will have to read the diagnostic code that the computer is sendig for the check engine light to activate
SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking
These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.
Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.
SOURCE: 97 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6 Idles rough only when cold
Orand
Ther is a air Idle control valve located on the side of the throttle body. unplug it remove it spray it and clean it with carb cleaner replace it plug it back in and you will be a Happy person again.
Lugnut61
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