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jumped with other car running?
if it clicks,
we next hot wire the starter solenoid,
if it clicks now with good battery (or running jump), it's a
1: bad starter. or 2: seized engine (turn by hand? yet)
if it cranks fast now hot wired, the KEY line is dead
ask how to fix either.
Change the battery in your wireless remote control. Check the fuses located underneath the drivers side steering wheel, flip the fuse box cover lid over and replace the power window and power door lock fuses. The back of the cover lid will have a diagram showing where each fuse is located, replace with the same number amp fuse. If your fuses are good and the battery inside your remote is new then you will need to replace the drivers side power window switch, click on the link below to view a replacement:
restart run car for a few miles at least get the rpm up then se if it relites
if it relites you may have an issue not necessarily serious but sensore or other sensor issue go to trax auto they will give you the code fomr code reader then you decide if its a DYI or dealer$HIT or garage mechanic friend
The best batteries I've had (and the only ones I buy) are Optima deep-cycle (dry cell) batteries. The red-top battery is great for us who live in the northeast, with the cold of winter. They have 900 crank amps, recover very quickly from a discharge, and last a long time.
I had exactly the same problem this morning after returning from the store. I replaced the OEM battery with an Optima Red Top Model 25. Problem gone. Chrysler OEM batteries rarely last more than three years. You don't need to buy an Optima, but they do last a long time.