Question about 1996 Nissan Maxima
WHILE DRIVING ON FREEWAY ENGINE AND ALL ELETRICAL VIOLENTLY SHUTS DOWN WITH A "THUD", LOSING ALL POWER FOR ONE FULL SECOND. ITS AS IF YOU TURNED THE KEY OFF. THEN JUST AS QUICKLY IT ALL SUDDENLY BEGINS RUNNING AGAIN WITH ALL DASH WARNING LIGHTS LIGHTING UP OR FLASING AND RESTARTING, AS IF CAR WAS RESTARTED I.E. AIRBAG DASH WARNING INDICATOR LIGHT COMES ON MOMENTARILY THEN GOES OFF, ETC. TRANSMISSION "OD" LIGHT COMES ON, THEN BLINKS, THEN GOES OUT, THEN YOU'RE BACK TO NORMAL UNTIL THE NEXT SUDDEN SHUT SOMETIME LATER. SEEMS AWEFULLY ******* TRANSMISSION TO BE MOVING 60-70MPH IN DRIVE WITHOUT ENGINE RUNNING. I SHIFT QUICKLY INTO NEUTRAL DURING THE EVENT TO TAKE STRESS OFF TRANSMISSION. CODES ONLY SHOW KNOCK SENSOR AND FUEL EVEP CANISTER CODES. I DON'T BELIEVE EITHER TWO ITEMS CAN CAUSE SUCH A QUICK AND TEMPORARY (A COUNT OF "ONE THOUSAND ONE") SHUT DOWN.
Last time I saw something like this, it was on a Honda Pilot. The cure was replacing the Ignition Relay. It could also be a faulty ignition switch. Here's a DIY video if you care to perform the replacement yourself:
Posted on May 03, 2017
Re place spark plugs
Posted on Apr 26, 2017
Ignition switch have the problem,chanche as soon as possible and never have the starting key with other keys neverrrrrrrr.
Posted on Apr 19, 2017
Change your ignition switch common problem with this year model notice i said switch not the lock cylinder
Posted on Apr 11, 2017
The engine sensor is bad,
Posted on Apr 08, 2017
Maybe the main computer stops accepting or reading the KEY code briefly then back again. many electrical issues are caused simply because the ground wire connections to the body especially on older units have either vibrated loose over the years or have corrosion built up underneath even though by looking they appear clean on the outside. connect all of your cleaned ground wires to cleaned bare metal on the body. no more electrical shorts.
Posted on Apr 07, 2017
It sounds like your car has an intermittent open current feed problem. Has there been any electrical/component repair or replacement recently? If so, that would be a starting point for diagnosis. Sounds like an ignition switch type problem. If you had an intermittent battery connection, the car would continue to run from the alternator output, but would not cause the warning lights to go through their initial "bulb check" sequence. But if "on" voltage is lost at the ignition switch, or that circuit, it would.
Posted on Apr 05, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The best way is to use a scan tool to clear the codes, that will turn off the light, also disconnecting the battery over night may work, but no completely sure about that, it varies from year to year.
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
i would start in fuse and relay area with voltmeter.
Posted on Dec 05, 2009
Testimonial: "That's the problem, not a blown fuse relay but a defective fuse relay. The fuse tested ok but when taken out you could tell it was broke. Thanks!"
DID you properly gap the spark plugs?? This will cause misfires and may cause hard or no start conditions. Also inspect all your Ignition coil boots for cracks or oil. Clean them and blow any oils in the spark plug chambers!!
Posted on Sep 29, 2010
check your coolant in radiator and in the overflow bottle. make sure its nice and green and not light coffee color. if its light coffee color that you will need a new ****** and a radiator. check that and post results. also what is the check engine light code?? have you scaned it?? if you havent, than do so and post code number.
Posted on Nov 03, 2011
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