Temp controls unit intermittent, cruise control also
When you first turn on the key the temp control unit lights up the same time as you get readings on the odometer. Sometimes it does not come on at all and other times it will come on and when you start the car it goes off (as it is suppose to) but never comes back on. I checked the unit itself and it doesn't seem to be the problem. The cruise control also only works sometimes.
It's starting to get cold here and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Re: Temp controls unit intermittent, cruise control also
Had the same problem with my wifes 2000 intrigue. AC/heater module worked intermittently and the cruise didn't work at all. Replaced ignition switch module. $99 and about an hour and a half for a non-skilled do-it-yourselfer. Have the part store show you a replacement procedure out of a chiltons. Its easy if you know the procedure.
The GM dealer said the code pointed to the HVAC module. Bogus.... Igniton switch module fixed my problem. Good luck..
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Re: Temp controls unit intermittent, cruise control also
When looking at a power distribution schematic, the HVAC and cruise control share a dedicated feed from the ignition switch. It sounds to me like the switch has an intermittant fault, since the display is lit and then when cranked it goes dead (as it should) but the switch may never remake the contact when returning to run causing the loss of power.
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The s light blinking means you have an active code in you tcu or transmission control unit. there is a juumper wire behind the passenger side kick panel and if you use a paper clip or small wire to connect both terminals in the connector you can read the engine and transmission code out on the dash. Once the jumper wire is connected turn the key to the on position engine off and count how many times the s light blinks. Thats the number of your code. I would read the codes out first before doing anything else.
The PCM on a 2004 Ford Mustang is a combined control unit, consisting of the engine control unit (also known as an ECU) and the transmission control unit.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Launch X431 Master
the coolant could be just overflow,, as far as the temp,, replace the thermostat as a first thing, when your car gets that hot, it causes readings to be sent to the computer that sends mixed signals to other parts of the car, The first thing you should do is pull the diagnostic codes. This will tell you if the thermostat is dead.check the temp sending unit, it is located under the upper radiator hose, 19mm wrench will take it off, it costs about 20 bucks but you also need to replace the thermostat. all in all its about 25 bucks total and all your gauges work fine....
check if your car has a speed sensor located in the diff rear cover if so from memory early face lift xj40 models used that sensor for the cruise only signal . the speedo signal came from the abs circuit. does the speedo fail at the same time? the sensor in the diff used to change spec when the oil increased in temp whatever sounds like the speed signal is at fault, blue wire i think at the seed control module good luck
hi i had this problem with engine management light and no power over 2000 revs the solution was replacing split breather pipe and all codes checked and cleared, the cost was £30 @ jagtech stockton hope this helps
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition
CODE Description of Trouble Code 11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking 12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal) 13 No change in MAP from start to run 14 MAP sensor voltage too low 15 No vehicle speed sensor signal 17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long 21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream 22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range 23 Intake air temp sensor out of range 24 Throttle Position sensor out of range 25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found 27 Injector control circuit 31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit 32 EGR system failure 33 A/C clutch relay circuit 34 Speed control Solenoid circuits 35 Rad Fan control relay circuit 37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure 41 Generator field not switching properly 42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles 43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire 44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range 46 Charging system voltage too low 51 Fuel system lean 52 Fuel system rich 53 Internal control failure 54 No Cam signal at PCM 55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found) 62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored 63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied 64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure 65 Power steering switch failure
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the brake fluid level. This may be an answer. Also have you had the brakes checked. The cruise control is integrated with the brakes. Any little thing wrong with them effects the cruise.
i just recently replaced mine and the temp control had burned . the dash fascia needs to be removed. the vents must come out and then remove the screws that hold it on..there are probably 10 screws.. under the vents , behind the ashtray, and behind the cruise control switch and dimmer switch.. once this is done you need to remove the 4 screws that hold the heater control unit in. the bulb that needs to be replaced lights up temp control and fan speed...you may be able to download an exploded veiw of the dash fascia...this is an involved job...but worth it at night!