Question about 1998 Dodge Stratus
I got in the car this morning to go to the store. The car started fine. I drove it only about 2 blocks and parked it. When I came out to go home the car would not start - I am not sure what is going on. Sems to have power from the battery because the door locks work, the windows work, the fan moter blows..... The strange thing is that when I turn the key to the on or start position, I see the odometer light but none of the guages move at all. They normally jump into position - for example the gas guage jumps to the fuel level - This does not happen now. Also, the radio does not work any longer. ?? When I turn the key to try and start the car there is nothing - no noise at all. I did try jump starting the car with no results. Any ideas????? Thanks
I have 98 startus the fuel pump and filter have been change had some fuses glowed door locked dome light after all
Was fixed car starts to leave home but wont start to get home turns over just wont fire any ideas plz? ???@@
Posted on Jan 20, 2012
There is a 20 amp fuse under the hood that blew on my 96 stratus that caused the same problem. check that out, maybe the same thing. good luck.
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
With all starter/ battery problems the first thing to do is clean the battery terminals so that the battery posts and connections are clean. Then check to see if voltage is getting to the solenoid wire at the starter. It may be a faulty transmission park switch (AT) or a bad clutch switch(MT) If voltage is getting to the solenoid it may be the starter. This sounds like the classic example of dirty battery cables and low dollar jumper cables.
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you have a universal failure of your instrument panel circuits. The Speedo and odometers run off a cable that goes down into your tranny, not electrical.
Pull each fuse out one at a time, test each for continuity, clean the blades with an eraser and reseat, then go to the next one. Tighten all the ground cables you can find, starting from inside, then the firewall, engine block, battery, etc. This should fix it unless you have an open in the instrument circuit. A short will blow the fuse involved so that will be obvious. Just replace the blown fuse with the SAME VALUE- DO NOT USE A HIGHER AMP FUSE! If you have a blown fuse, hopefully you'll be lucky and it won't blow again.
I say check each fuse because sometimes instrument circuits are shared with others and not obvious which fuse is the one. And if one fuse is not making good contact, then others are likely to be on their way. If it is a short it will work momentarily until the fuse blows- thats why they're in there- to protect the circuit.
If you have a short you will have to track it. Take the blown fuse out and run your tests on your wires- most. Sometimes those little instrument lights get a bad connection- glazed contacts & sometimes they act as sub-fuses as well, so it can get complicated. This is my generic solution for most vehicles.
Good luck hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
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