Question about 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab

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Backfire engine backfired makes loud ticking noise now and brake pedal is real soft. vacuum line?? intake maniflold leak??

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B FIRE CAUSE? TIMING JUMPED?

Posted on Oct 08, 2008

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Our oldsmoible silhoute has had many issues , we have spent $1800 trying to fix it


A backfire is usually an indicator of either timing or vacuum. Though you didn't include the year or engine size of your vehicle, the timing is not adjustable, and more than likely NOT your issue. This brings us to what it most likely is: Emissions System/ Vacuum/ Air Induction. The slower your vehicle goes (the less open your throttle is) the MORE vacuum there is present in the intake manifold. The faster your vehicle goes ( the wider open your throttle is) the LESS vacuum there is in the manifold. When you open your throttle, it lets more Air into the engine, which, in turn, displaces the vacuum. A vacuum leak allows air into the engine, which replaces the much needed vacuum for the car to run properly at idle and lower speeds. But when the vehicle is driving faster, the symptoms of the vacuum leak may not be noticeable, due to the fact that the engine is utilizing the extra air intake. The symptoms, however, return when the vehicle returns to idle. Using a 3/4" hose, you can put one end of the hose to your ear and probe the engine with the other end. Using the hose a stethoscope, listen for any "hissing" sounds coming from the intake or hoses, to detect a vacuum leak. Spraying Brake Cleaner / around the manifold, while the car is parked and idling, and listening for the engine to surge as the Brake Cleaner is being sucked into the engine, is one method that can be employed, though, I must say, with extreme caution. An open spark plug wire can cause the spray the ignite! There is also the option of having a smoke test done by a qualified technician, to locate a leak.
An Engine backfire is merely a condition where the cylinder in question has a poor air /fuel and spark ratio or timing. A leaking Fuel Injector can cause a backfire as well, such as the backfire that is present when too much starter fluid is used. First: get the codes pulled for your Check Engine Light for free at Autozone or Orielly's. Look for O2 sensors to be reading a Lean condition , which indicates a vacuum leak, or not enough fuel ( as in clogged injectors) if it a clogged injector, the code should say "misfire" and indicate which cylinder(s) has the issue. If the code has O2 sensor "Rich" condition, you are looking at too much gas being dumped into one or more cylinders, or not enough air. Though, by your description, it is more than likely a mere vacuum/ air issue.
MR. VINCENT, ASE MASTER TECH, MOBILE MAN CAN ,LLC

Oct 18, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making whistle noise on off on run and stopping.


There are basically two types of whistle noises.

* Whistle when you get more gas (increase RPM, put gas pedal, sometimes just idling but louder when you put more gas)
This usually intake-side leak.
Intake manifold itself, intake manifold gasket (most likely), even airfilter housing, Airflow meter housing (connector), anything where air goes to engine.
usually engine get rough or unstable idle when intake leak occur.
Engine knocking or pinging may feel.

* Whistle when you decrease RPM (engine brake, reduce speed, sometimes just idling but louder when it dropping RPM)
This usually Vacuum-side leak.
There are many vacuum hoses in engine room. even inside of cabin (heater control, etc)
Try to spot where it coming from.
Vacuum also connected to Brake servo, heater control and spark timing.

Put metal or plastic pipe (small PVC pipe will work fine) to one of your ear then isolate source of noise and find where it come from.

Feb 26, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When I press the brake pedal it's real hard and there's a loud whussing sound but the pedal doesn't go down


You power brake vacuum booster is bad , that would be my first thought . What make vehicle do you have ? Under the hood in the engine compartment behind the brake master cylinder is a round metal object , this is the brake booster ! The rubber diaphragm inside is bad ! The whooshing sound is vacuum leaking out of the diaphragm !

Jul 21, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine cuts out when foot brake applied


sounds to me like a severe vacuum issue...pump the brake pedal quickly while in park if engine start to stall or does stall then take carb cleaner and spray vacuum lines and around intake near gasket engine will rev or die out when you hit a leak...very careful inspection of lines if no money for carb cleaner..or it could be brake booster is bad...loud air sound when pushin or holding pedal would indicate and issue there

Nov 27, 2012 | 1994 Honda Accord

3 Answers

Brakes stay soft even though they have been bled and the brake booster replaced. It sounds like there is an air leak somewhere. I replaced the master cylinder as well then they were bled and still I have...


If there are no brake line/fitting leaks and no crimped or bent brake lines/hoses:
The key to my answer is the sound of air leaking...
Check the Brake Booster to the rear of the Master Cylinder.
1. Check the Vacuum Hose going to the Air Resonator with the one way check valve. Make sure the Vacuum Hose does not have cracks, holes, etc.; or does not collapse with the engine on. If there are any problems with the hose - replace the hose. With the engine on: remove the Hose for the Resonator and check for a vacuum. CAREFULLY: Remove the Resonator and reconnect it to the Vacuum Hose. Again check for the presence of a vacuum coming from the inside of the Resonator. If the Hose had a vacuum, but the Resonator does not = Replace the Resonator. If there is a Vacuum - Reconnect the Vacuum Hose and Resonator to the Brake Booster

2. Checking the Brake Booster Seals:
a. While the Engine is running: Push in the brake pedal. Stop the Engine while keeping the Brake Pedal pushed in.
(1) If there is a change = the Brake Pedal sinks to the floor: The Brake Booster has a Air Leak.
(2) If there is no change = GO TO TEST 2 (#3 below)

3. Turn the engine on and wait a couple of minutes and turn the engine off. Push in the Brake Pedal several times.
a. If the Pedal goes down farther the first time, but continues to rise = gets harder after the 2nd, 3rd time the Brake Booster is fine.
b. If the Pedal continue to go farther down on each push = the Brake Booster has a leak.

One seal in particular - located where the Brake Booster is attached to the Fire Wall - located behind the Brake Pedal Arm. Check the mounting bolts for tightness. With the engine on and a partner pushing on the Brake pedal: try to determine if that rear seal is where the air is leaking from.
Any Air Leak in the Brake Booster Main Seals = a new (remanufactured) Brake Booster must be purchased, as these are not repairable.

Let me know if this helped. or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

May 13, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Breeze

2 Answers

Engine increases rpm when brake pedal is depressed


Inspect brake booster vacuum line from engine intake to brake booster for leaks also inspect brake booster check valve, more than likely your brake booster is causing a vacuum leak to your Intake thus leaning mixture wich increases idle rpm

Apr 03, 2010 | 1990 Toyota Pickup

2 Answers

Loud whistle noise from my 97 dodge ram 1500 sprayed brake cleaner around engine for vacuum leaks but didn't hear any change in idle, so confused.


sounds like a vacuum leak. spray w-d 40 around vacuum hoses to find out. intake manifold might be leaking or sucking air as well use w-d- 40 there as well. if it has a turbo charger it may be going out. water pump, alternator and belts can make winning noises as well.

Jul 07, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab

2 Answers

1998 caviler when brakes are applied engine revs up


Hello;
Yoou most likely have a vacuum leak in the line from the booster to the intake. It could be a bad booster or check valve as well.
Thanks;
Rich
RPM Northwest

Jun 04, 2009 | 2005 Hyundai Tucson

1 Answer

Surging and loud whistling noise


Sounds like a vacuum leak. Check all vacuum hoses on the intake, throttle body, etc. Sounds like one cracked or came off. Post back if you have any questions. Hope this helps.

Feb 08, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Impala SS

2 Answers

LOUD TICKING NOISE IN ENGINE AFTER INTAKE REPAIR


How long have you ran the engine ? I know that they will run rough and sometimes make strange noises for a few secounds or a little bit untill everything get oiled up again. I would make sure all the push rods are back in the right place and that all the lifters are tight.

Jan 18, 2009 | 1998 Pontiac Bonneville

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