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Re: front wheel bearing
There is a tool you can use to remove the old bearing and press in the new one with the spindle still on the car. Here's a link to the procedure:
The tool is called a Hub Shark. It looks like a pain to use it, but I know from experience that dealing with the pinch bolt is much more of a pain. This is the only way to do it that I know of that doesn't involve removing the pinch bolt. It may be easier than it looks but it appears that it'll be an annoyance trying to work around in the wheelwell.
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According to Autozone.com, you must replace the whole control arm. Here is their procedure: NOTE
do not begin the removal procedure unless a new strut-to-lower arm nut, a new ball joint pinch bolt/nut and a new lower arm-to-front subframe bolt/nut are available.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Do not use a hammer to separate the ball joint from the front wheel hub and spindle.
WheelsLower arm strut nut and dished washer. Discard them.
Place the steering wheel in the unlocked position.
Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward. Over-extension of the halfshaft joint could result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of the halfshaft joint.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Use extreme care to not damage the ball joint boot seal.
Lower arm ball joint nut and pinch bolt. Discard them.Lower arm from the front wheel knuckle
Remove and discard the lower arm-to-front subframe bolt and nutRemove the lower arm from the vehicleTo install:
Install or connect the following:
Lower arm strut into the lower arm rear strut bushingLower arm into the front sub-frame bracketNew lower arm-to-front subframe nut and bolt. While holding the lower arm horizontal, tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-132 Nm).Ball joint stud-to-wheel hub and spindle, making sure that the ball stud groove is properly positioned.New lower arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 46-52 ft. lbs. 62-71 Nm).
Clean the lower arm strut threads to remove dirt and contamination.
Install the dished washer with the dished side away from the lower arm rear strut bushing.
Install the front suspension lower arm strut-to-strut nut and tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm).
remove caliper, rotor, caliper bracket, lower ball joint shaft and two strut bolts. remove bearing housing and any snap rings. remove old bearing. replace and repeat in reverse. watch the abs sensor! costly if damaged. This is not for beginners...
The front wheel bearings on your Dodge Dakota allow the wheels to spin freely on the axle spindle. These sealed bearings may cause noise once they wear out, develop a pit on the races, bends and other damage that interfere with wheel performance. However, the front bearings form a single assembly with the wheel hubs and they should be replaced as a single unit. Fortunately, installing a new assembly is not a difficult process.
Removing the Hub/Bearing Assembly
Before raising the front wheel(s), loosen the half shaft nut using an axle nut socket. Then remove the wheel/tire assembly and the half shaft nut. If your particular Dakota model comes equipped with an Anti-lock Bake System (ABS) sensor, remove the sensor form its bracket and move it aside.
Now you are ready to remove the brake caliper and rotor. Make sure to secure the caliper to the coil spring using a piece of heavy wire. Do not let it hanging by the brake line to avoid damage to the brake hose attached to the caliper. With the caliper and rotor out of the way, you have access to the hub/bearing assembly mounting bolts.
On some models, you can only access the hub/bearing mounting bolts through the holes in front of the hub/bearing assembly. Rotate the assembly by hand as you loosen and remove the mounting bolts. Once you remove the bolts, you can detach the hub/bearing from the steering knuckle and halfshaft. If the bearing assembly seems stuck to the halfshaft, use a 3 jaw gear puller to remove it.
All the Ford Escapes (thru 2011) have a Gen1 cartridge type bearing on the front. I'm pretty sure that the bearing is also the same for all Escapes; FWD and AWD, V6 and I4. I'm not sure, but I suspect the Hybrids are the same also.
The Gen1 bearing is difficult to replace yourself unless you have access to a hydraulic press.
The bearing has a press fit into the knuckle and the wheel hub. For most people, I would recommend the dealer or a decent shop.
If you're brave, here are the shorthand steps to replace the bearing:
Remove the wheel/tire.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor.
Remove the ABS sensor. It's a small bolt, be careful.
Remove the axle nut and press the axle shaft out (You should use a special tool for this) Beating it with a hammer is NOT recommended and will damage the axle threads. It's not stuck or rusty, the spline on the axle has a slight Helix that locks it to the hub.
Remove the lower ball joint. Do this first, while the strut and tie rod are still connected, because you might have to really work it over. Remove the cross (pinch) bolt and nut. Pull the ball joint out. If stuck, you may have to open the pinch joint a little with a punch or chisel.
Remove the tie rod nut and the tie rod from the knuckle.
Remove the 2 strut bolts.
I'm pretty sure that the knuckle/hub assembly is now loose, then:
Press the hub out of the bearing. Half of the inner bearing race will be stuck on the hub.
Press that inner race off the hub. Maybe a "bearing splitter" will work.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing out of the knuckle. It's OK to press against the inner race; you're going to replace it anyway. (Note: whatever you're doing, don't try to save the bearing. Don't.)
The new bearing can be installed either way; it's symetrical.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only! Do not press across the inner race. You can use the old outer race as a press tool. Do not damage the seal retainer or seal.
Insert the snap ring. Make sure it's fully seated. Check it again.
Press the hub into the bearing. Do NOT press thru the knuckle (and the bearing) as a base. You must support the bearing at the inner race. Using the knuckle will damage the bearing, and you'll be doing this all over in about 500 miles.
The knuckle can be reinstalled on the vehicle in whatever order you want, but I recommend putting some grease on the spline and put it on the axle first and hand start the nut. You can torque the nut later. The axle nut torque is 300Nm (220Ft-lbs).
Remove wheel. Take off outer driveshaft nut. Remove lower ball joint
pinch bolt & separate ball joint from spindle. Pull rotor &
spindle out & away to pull driveshaft outer splined end out of rotor
center hub. Look on the back of the spindle for the 4 bolts that hold
in the wheel bearing. Use a 12 point socket to remove the 4 bolts and
remove wheel bearing from spindle (out towards the wheel stud side).
Probably will have to use a air chisel to get it out. Once it's out undo
the 4 bolts on the outer (wheel stud side) of the rotor and remove the
rotor from the hub. Clean & lube the hole where the bearing was in
the spindle & the inner face of the hub. MAKE SURE IT'S CLEAN
otherwise you may get a pulsation on braking if theres a piece of rust
or dirt between the rotor center & the hub face. Reverse procedure
If the rear bolts don't come out then you will have to use a
slide hammer to separate the bearing to replace the rotor and there is a
very good chance you will need to replace the wheel bearing after
you're done (noisy on road test).
Not the job to do at home,
usually an easy 2-3 hours per side if things go bad (book time is 2.2
hrs per side). Use good quality rotors as you don't want to have to do
it again because a cheap rotor gave you a pulsation.
the rear bearing is pressed into the hub so take the hubs off and take to a engineering shop to have the new one pressed in ,now the front ones are similar in as much as they need pressing in and out ,DO NOT TRY TO DO IT WITH A BIG HAMMER ,its dangerous ,remove the wheel trim and slacken the big nut in the middle ,think its a 32mm then jack vehicle up remove the wheel ,undo the brake caliper by the 2 bolts that hold it to the stub axle ,slacken bolt on track rod end but do not remove fully and then wack the end of the stub axle where the track rod end goes through .One good wack with a 1kg hammer will do it on the end of the steering /stub axle shaft without damaging anything because you have left the nut on loose.then remove the bottom track control arm pinch bolt it has a star head and a 17 mm nut on the other end ,use a lengh of scaffold pole or a big crow bar to pull the track control arm down so the ball joint come apart ,take the stub axle off and in the back is a big circlip but leave it alone and just take it to the engineering shop ,its very dangerous to try to remove the bearing with a big hammer and drift because it can and will chip and hit you in the face trust me on this
Removal:Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel. Remove caliper assembly. DO NOT allow caliper to hang from brake hose. Always support caliper by wiring it to frame. Remove rotor. Loosen and remove ABS speed sensor mounting screw. Carefully remove sensor head from steering knuckle. If sensor head is seized due to corrosion, use hammer and brass punch to tap sensor. Tap edge of sensor ear, rocking sensor from side to side until it is free. DO NOT use pliers on sensor head. Remove axle shaft nut. Remove 3 bolts securing hub assembly to steering knuckle. Pull hub straight back from knuckle. If hub is corroded, pry between hub flange and knuckle
Fully remove knuckle pinch bolt. Insert pry bar between lower control arm and steering knuckle. Push down on pry bar to separate ball joint stud from steering knuckle. Ensure ball joint dust boot is not damaged during removal. Loosen and remove strut-to-knuckle nuts. Bolts are serrated where installed into knuckle. DO NOT turn bolts in steering knuckle. Use soft-face hammer to drive bolts out of knuckle. Remove knuckle from vehicle.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specification. DO NOT fully tighten axle nut until vehicle is on ground. Ensure hub mounting surfaces are clean and free of foreign material. Coat speed sensor with high temperature grease before installing onto knuckle.
Hub and Bearing Assembly
CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:
A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.
Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal. Removal
Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
Raise vehicle on hoist.
NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.
Metric Hub Remover Adapter
Front Hub Replacer
Turn Wrench Counterclockwise
Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench
Front Hub Remover/Replacer
Two Stud Adapter
Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)
Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.
NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.
Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .
NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.
Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting in General Diagnosis.
Remove the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
Remove and support the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Brakes.
Remove the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Remove the ABS sensor wire connector.
Remove the four bolts from the control arm.
Remove the hub and bearing from the control arm.
Remove the brake shield from the control arm.
Clean the control arm face and the bore before installing the hub and the bearing.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the brake shield and the hub and the bearing to the control arm with the four bolts. Be careful not to drop the hub and the bearing, as it could be damaged. Reconnect the ABS sensor. Tighten the hub and bearing bolts to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).
Install the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Disc Brakes.
Install the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment. Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).