An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: 88 chevy van sterring tie rod
I'm just going to tell ya the whole proccess of replacing tie rods. First thing is to make sure you got the nut on the back side of the tierod free. Use a vice grip and a wrench to do so. Once that's done, remove crown nut. You know, the nut that has notches in it. Do your best to remove cotter pin. If you can't, well it's still possible just harder to do so. Then, use a hammer and hit the end where the crown nut was. Once tie rod is off on that end, twist tie rod off. COUNT the number of turns it takes you to do so. Then put new one on with same number of turns. You should get an alingment done afterwards. If you don't want too, be prepared to spend money in tires in the near future.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You will need to rent or borrow in inner tie rod tool but here are the directions.
1. Break the jam nut on inner tie rod to outer loose.
2. Remove nut from outer tie rod attaching it to steering knuckle.
3. Use hammer to get tie rod out of knuckle.
4. Unscrew outer tie rod then jam nut
5. Remove clamp from boot and slide off inner tie rod.
6. Using side cutter or hammer and chisel break off metal clamp on the inside of inner tie rod boot.
7. Using inner tie rod tool, unscrew inner tie rod from rack and pinion
8. Reinstall parts and have it aligned
I recommend you get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for most auto parts stores ($20-$30). But to save you some money:
1. Loosen the lug nuts.
2. Raise front of vehicle.
3, Support it with jack stands.
4. Chock/Block the rear tires.
5. Set the parking brake.
6. Remove the front tire.
7. Mark the nut shaped end of the tie rod and the jam nut with a straight line on top.
8. Using two wrenches - one on the tie rod (nut shaped) end and the other on the jam nut,..loosen SLIGHTLY the jam nut (clockwise turn). While loosening the jam nut - make sure you count the number of turns 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 etc...
9. Using 11/32 Socket remove the tie-rod end to steering knuckle nut.
10. Use a tie rod end separator (fork) or ball joint separator (jaws) and separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
11. Before turning the tire rod off the steering arm: Count the number of turns coming off the arm using the mark you put on the tie rod nut shaped end.
Notice on the final turn off the arm what the mark position is. This wil be the position you start when screwing the new tie rod on.
12. Place the jam nut back just short of it's original position.
13. Screw the new tie rod back starting with that start position and with the same number of turns.
14. Connect the tie rod and steering knuckle.
15. Tighten the tie rod to steering knuckle nut to 40 ft-lbs.
16. The tie rod end and jam nut should then be tightened. They should be close anyway within a 1/8 turn.
17. Install lug nuts.
18. Lower Van.
19. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Using the everyother nut until all are tightened process.
20. Wheel alignment? Test drive Van and have checked at an alignment shop.
The Stabilizer Bar Bushings:
Steps 1. thru Step 6 above. Remove both tires.
7. Remove bolts (should be 10 of them) attaching the cradle plate to the bottom of the front suspension cradle.
8. Remove the cradle plate.
9. Remove the stablizer bar links from the stabilzer bar. Confused? There is a straight bar coming from the Strut down to the sway (stabilizer) bar (which goes from one side of the Van to the other). Remove this nut.
10. Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar bushing retainers (one on each side) from the front suspension cradle.
11. Be careful this bar is heavy and will fall suddenly and may hit you on the head!!
12. Remove the bar and bushings as a unit (together).
13. Install the new bushings with the slits facing the rear of the Van and the square corners facing the ground.
14. Make sure you clean the areas on the bar where the bushings are positioned.
15. Use lubricant (non-petroleum based, like vegetable oil) to easy re-assembly.
16. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.
a. Align the stabilizer bar in position using the depressions in the cradle.
b. Do not tighten all-the-way the bushing retainers until later.
c. Tighten stabilizer bar to link stabilzer (sway) bar to 65 ft-lbs.
d. Tighten bushing retainer nuts to 50 ft-lbs.
e. Tighten the cradle plate bolts:
M14 at 123 ft-lbs
M12 at 80 ft-lbs.
Let mne know if this worked for you. Good Luck!!
Any other questions? Drop me a line on fixya.com!
first break lose the locking nut on the rod, just break it lose!!!
the take off the nut holding thr tie rod too the hub mount
then take a hammer and hit it up
if that doesnt work use tie rod end remover
then just unscrew it
in stall the new on back too where you breok the locking nut lose thats your adjustment, out it all back together,and lock down the nut !!!
pretty decent job ahead first jack up car support with jack stands remove front wheels remove nuts on tie rod ends remove tie rod ends from spindles with tie rod end tool or tap with malet were they sit to loosen them hit the spindle area not the tie rod or tie rod threads then dissconnect power steering lines from steering rack also disconect steering linkage to rack there should be 2 main bolts holding assembly to frame remove them should free rack i know that car may have a unique design were u may have to remove inner tie rod ends first if it has those round bushings that always go bad disconect inner tie rod ends behind engine on top of steering rack then remove rack from wheel well replace those inner tie rod bushings u may be able to leave outer tie rod end connected to spindles and u may be able to get to the sterring rack from behind engine good luck
FOR A "2006 NISSAN SENTRA" & ANY OTHER MODEL THAT HAS A SMOOTH SOCKET HOUSING, WITHOUT A RATCHET END TO USE A CONVENTIONAL INNER TIE ROD REMOVER TUBULAR TOOL... THIS IS THE TOOL YOU HAVE TO USE... I FOUND ONE AT AUTO ZONE AS A LOANER TOOL...
you will need to back off on the lock nut on the tie rod end then remove the tie rod end from spindle turn tie rod counting the number of turns to take it off put new tie rod the same number of turns put back in spindle and tighten lock nut your steering wheel will probably be off center so you will need to have the toe reset on the alignment machine