This sounds like a common Camry problem. After driving my vehicle for about 20 minutes in highway traffic, the vehicle has difficulty idling when I slow down behind another car or turn a corner.This quickly deteriorates and then the car actually stalls when I slow right down or turn a corner. Then usually the car starts again right away, but when I slow down again, stalls.Then when I start it up again, usually in traffic, I can’t get the shift into Drive.If I allow it to sit engine off for 3 – 5 minutes, it starts again, the shift can slide into shift, and the car goess off again, like nothing happened. Until the next time, which is usually the following day.
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Re: 1996 Camry 100 km stalling
You have one of two very common problems.
Number one may be a stuck open EGR valve
Number two would be a failing Idle Air Control valve (IAC).
Try this: Open the hood & locate the EGR valve, close to the firewall, behind the intake. Find & take with you a small hammer. The next time that it happens, open the hood & tap on the EGR valve. If it is sticking "open" the tapping may dislodge the carbon particles that are keeping it open.When the EGR valve is open, exhaust is getting into the intake at idle, and this will def stall out the car.
There is no repair to the IAC valve, it would need to be replaced if it is bad.
One of these two scenarios will cure your problem, I see it every day.
This sounds like a common Camry problem. After driving my vehicle for about 20 minutes in highway traffic, the vehicle has difficulty idling when I slow down behind another car or turn a corner. This quickly deteriorates and then the car actually stalls when I slow right down or Then usually the car starts again right away, but when I slow down again, stalls.Then when I start it up again, usually in traffic, I can’t get the shift into Drive.If I allow it to sit engine off for 3 – 5 minutes, it starts again, the shift can slide into shift, and the car goess off again, like nothing happened.
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I don't really agree with the IAC idle air control valve however, you can test it by unplugging it while the car is running; if the valve is bad (assuming no bad wires or pcm problems) the engine will not change it's sound. On the other hand if it's good the engine will sputter and have an erratic idle but probably wont die...........
A common culprit of your cars condition is often a bad crank shaft or cam shaft position sensor; for most vehicles they are easy to change and only $10 or so. There are tests that can be done to check the parts and that another topic. The crank shaft position sensor is where I would start. And, as another person said the fuel filter is a good thing to replace; could be your problem, and it probably needs it anyway. Good luck and try and keep from throwing parts at her; work the problem don't let it work you.
Hello. Welcome to FixYa. Please allow me to assist you.
What you have is this: Disconnecting the battery caused your car's computer to lose its 'base idle' parameters. This info is kept in the computer, but, removing power to the computer allows the info to be erased, so to speak.
This is, unfortunatly, a normal condition, and, easily rectified.
What you need to do: Get in the car, start it up, and drive it; simulating stop/start city traffic, and then take it out on the highway, hit passing gear a few times, pull off, and let it idle 30 seconds and repeat highway speed, and passing gear a few more times, then simulate city traffic again. You might need to apply a slight bit of gas during the idle periods of the drive. If you do it right, you can reset the base idle parameter under10 minutes.
If you have any questions, please feel free to get back to me via reposting.
Sounds like you have a small bit of dirt or grit in the fuel system when accelerating it is drawn with enough force to cut off the fuel supply then is released when engine at Idle. 1 run liquid fuel line/injector cleaner in 1 tank 2 check fuel lines for debris 3 change fuel filters 4 have fuel tank flushed here is trouble shooting order less expense to greater.
Hansandfranz is 1/2 correct; the car does need an "Idle Relearn", but, you do NOT need a scan tool for this. The vehicle just needs to be driven for the ECu to relearn the "base idle".
Get in, drive it down the highway. Do some passing gear downshifts. Pull off to the side of the road, let it idle for 30 seconds, repeat 2 more times. Then, try to duplicate some "in-town" (stop & go") driving, for about 15 minutes.
This will reset the "base idle", and your stalling condition will disappear. Expect to have to do this again if you replace the battery. Very common; the Computer (ECU) loses the base idle parameters when the battery is disconnected. Easily rectified just by driving as mentioned above. Feel free to comment back if you have any other questions.