Quits when slowed or stopped. have to turn off and restart then rev the engine and throw into drive. seems likes its running out of gas. If i,m on the freeway giving it constant gas its fine. Fuel line? fuel filter?
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Re: 1996 chevy lumina
I have had the same problem with my 1996 Chevy Lumina Car and it was the Throttle Position Sensor. Make sure to check your Air Filter and Replace Spark Plugs and Wires. Thank you for using Fix Ya! Don't forget to rate the overall rating of this answer. Thank you.
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Its time for another car Jerry. The oil pressure light was telling you the engine was running on less than 10 psi of oil pressure, and the knock was a rod or main bearing. Now that the engine has been run low on oil pressure for some time, one of the rod or main bearings is junk, and so is the engine. By the time you replace the engine, even with a used one, you could take the same money and buy another car. Even if you took the engine apart and fixed the bad bearings, the rest of the engine parts are very weak from running without oil.
Hard starting? Try holding accelerator to floor until it catches then let off immediately, so as not to over-rev engine. (As it was done for a flooded situation with carburetor.) You may be getting leak-by on one or more injectors, causing it to act like a flooded situation.
High milage? Try engine cleaner, run for couple hundred miles and then use an additive like Restore. If it's just dirt this may help. Make sure you are using the correct viscosity oil for winter temps. If it's from wear only parts replacement will fix it.
The pattern you describe is consistent with an alternator going bad. Maybe the fields are already rubbing together. Test it this way: Start the car and leave on idle, when the whine is worse, then start using up electricity, by increasing the demand. Turn on AC, then lights, then full blower and then high beams. If there is a change in the whine, then either alternator or voltage regulator is the culprit. When a compressor pulley bearing is bad, noise shifts just by turning AC on and off.
Sounds like the dealer is shooting in the dark at your expense. If it was the O2 sensor, it would throw a code. Ofcourse, Fords drivability diagnostics was bad back then. I don't remember exactly how the ignition is set up on them. I would be looking at the trigger sensor for your ignition and ignition module.