- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Fuel and spark circuits tend to be separate. A faulty crank and/or cam sensor will stop the spark and injection signal but unlikely, I think, that it will completely stop the fuel pump.
I am wondering if the immobiliser is disengaging?
A friend with a Kia once left his keys on the kitchen microwave with a similar effect. Fortunately the car was almost new and the dealer took pity on him and reprogrammed the system free of charge.
I suggest you check the fuses. There is sometimes several associated with engine management, fuel pump and suchlike.
The ASD relay supplies battery voltage (12+ volts) to the fuel injectors
and ignition coil(s). With certain emissions packages it also supplies
12-volts to the oxygen sensor heating elements. The Fuel Pump Relay is a
separate relay controlled by the ASD relay input to the PCM. Fuse #12
(10amp) provides 12 volts to the coil side of both the relays and the
ignition switch. Fuse #6 (30 amps) supplies 12 volts to the output side
of the relay. Fuse #16 (15 amp) from the relay output to the Oxygen
Sensors and Fuse #26 (15 amp) relay output to the PCM. Fuse #24 (20 amp)
is Fuel pump relay output to fuel pump. Fuse #19 (10 amp) supplies 12
volts direct to the PCM. look for burned or melted wires in the offending circuit. sounds like you wiggled a wire while installing new relay.
Try running a separate power wire from the battery direct to the pump. If this cures the problem then splice it into a wire that has power when the key is on and put an in-line fuse in it. Hope this helps.
well if it is cranking its not starter or battery . maybe check to see if fuel pump is working .check fuses. you should be able to hear pump run for a few second . if pump working maybe fuel filter or sensor like throttle position ,air idle sensor. make sure all wires are hooked up on alternator & starter . no vacuum hoses off any where . is check engine light on ?
When you say you hooked it up direct, do you mean you by-passed the relay? Have you actually tested the pump itself? My son owned two of these trucks, and on both the wiring to the fuel pump rusted off at the connection to the pump inside the tank.
bad fuel pump, loose wiring, blown fuse, or bad fuel pump relay. don't think just because a fuel pump is brand new out of the box it's good. i got an A/C delco fuel pump, installed it in the customers truck tried to start it .... nothing. checked all wiring, grounds, fuse, relay etc. everything was good. pulled the pump back out of the tank and wired it direct to a battery and it did nothing. got another pump installed worked just fine.
The fuel heater is connected with the fuel pump, if it does not work, the fuel pump won't pump. Manifold heater has separate relays, fuse, and selenoids which are under the driver battery. If you have been working on it a lot make sure the battery is charged up.
Fuel pump and injectors are plugged. Any time a car sets with gas in it the gas separates and will varnish the fuel pump and injectors and possibly cause a fire just like a Vette I had to work on had the same problem. That means new fuel pump and filter and possibly injectors.
i recently did my chev s10 and they give you a new wire harness that you have to splice the wires and hook them up so it now has the same hook up. those wires are for your gauge as well as your pump. if your sending unit was not hooked up you would not go any where..take it back and demand this gets fixed.