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Re: brakes went out
You most likely have a leaking power brake booster unit, here is how you test it, run the engine for a few moments, then after turning it off press on the brake pedal a few times, if it sink and then gets hard to push the booster is working, if no change the booster is defective.
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I have the same truck! You could have a leaking wheel cylinder. Look at the brake drum on the driver rear and see if its wet. also check your brake fluid level. If you are leaking you will be low. Wheel cyl's are not super hard to do, just make sure you do everything and both sides. also do one side at a time so you can use the other side for reference when putting it all back together.
The extra brake travel can be; 1. air still in the brake lines and need bleeding 2. if there are brake drums on the rear they may be out of adjustment 3. if there are warped brake disc or caliper problems that will add to the brake travel
Hi oakleafwoodw, sounds as if the brake master cylinder has busted a seal allowing the brake fluid to leak by cylinder when you push the brake pedal giving you no or very little pedal pressure....it is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall, you will see all the brake lines attached to it , remove those and the two bolts holding it on,take it with you to auto parts store for a rebuilt one , they will keep your core for rebuilding, other wise you pay a core charge., verify that they have the one you need before hand, get a quart of dot 4 brake fluid, hook it up, and bleed air from the brake lines starting with wheel cylinders in this order Right rear......left rear.....right front.....left front...making sure to keep fluid level topped off in the master cylinder during the whole bleeding process or you will pump air into lines....OK!! caution: you should not drive it until you have good brakes!! you said they still work but if you had to stop suddenly ,it won't do it.
It went to the floor because you had to compressed the piston to get it over the new pads and rotors. The brakes need to be pumped up after you replace pads in order for the pistons to come back in contact with the new pads and take up the gap. Pushing the pedal to the floor is never a good idea and a good way to ruin a master cylinder in older vehicles.
As far as the pulsation, have the rotors turned. Make sure the wheels are torqued to the proper spec when you are done (140 lb/ft). Pump up the pedal when you are done and you should have smooth braking.
Chk. for vacume to booster, or loss of vacume like a break in vacume hose, do you hear a hissing noise when you step on break peddel. If you don't hear anything chanses are its the booster. When peddel gets hard to push you either lost vacume or booster went bad.