I need to remove the automatic clutch from the flywheel as I want to convert the engine to manual transmission. There are som bolts hidden behind the clutch that looks like XZN or spline. What kind of tool do I need to remove the bolts?
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The transmission is transversely mounted in these vehicles. The mount that secures the transmission to the body is also supporting the engine. If you want to remove the transmission without also removing the engine you will have to support the engine once you remove the transmission mount. You will need to remove the drivers side wheel, caliper, and rotor. You then need to remove the drivers side CV shaft. You will need to separate the lower ball joint in order to remove the shaft and to provide working room to separate the transmission from the engine. You need to disconnect the Shift cable (automatic) or slave cylinder (manual) from the transmission. You must separate the passengers side CV shaft from the transmission, but you do not need to full y remove it. Ensure that you do not separate the inner CV joint when pulling the transmission free from the inner splines. Remove the flywheel shield plate. If automatic transmission, unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel. Disconnect any electrical connections from the transmission. If automatic transmission, disconnect the hydraulic lines running to the radiator. Unbolt the transmission from the engine at the bell housing. Automatic transmissions will come out fairly easy...manuals you must pull back to disengage the transmission splines from the clutch disc.
The clutch come out with the engine since it is bolted to the fly wheel. If you had an automatic transmission then you would need to remove the torque converter bolts from the flywheel so that the torque converter would stay in the transmission.
If you pulled the manual transmission the clutch would stay attached to the flywheel. It's the same when pulling the engine.
Hi Clifford, Any leakage from the front, or for that matter the rear of a transmission is a big job! The leakage if its from the transmission, will probably be behind the torque converter if the vehicle is automatic, or behind the clutch release bearing on a manual box. If the vehicle is consuming engine oil the leakage may well be from the rear crankshaft seal, which is situated behind the flywheel. If you need to remove the flywheel, keep in mind that the bolts are tightened to a specified torque which must be adhered to when refitting. Wherever the leakage is from the removal of the gear box is required. Regards John
Did you take out the bolts that connect the torque converter to the flywheel? If not, this is what is most likely hanging you up. Unlike a manual transmission where the clutch spins freely, the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel. To access these bolts, look on the bottom side of the bellhousing where the transmission mates to the engine. Tou should find an access hole covered with a black plastic plug. The hole should be roughly 2-3" in size. Remove this cover and manually rotate the flywheel using the accessory drive pulle bolt or have someone bump the key until the bolts are visible. If my memory serves me, there should be 4 bolts. Remove these and the transmission should come free. Just make sure it is properly supported to prevent injury. Hope this helps out. Have a GREAT day!
Remove either the engine, or transmission. It's between them, bolted to the engine crank, and then to the torque converter if it's an automatic, or has the clutch and pressure plate if it's a standard.
No , they are different. Manual transmissions require a clutch that engages with flywheel, thus manual transmission flywheel is much thicker/heavier and designed to mate with clutch assembly. Automatic is thinner/lighter as they only have to mate engine to torque converter.
The transmission bellhousing is bolted to the rear of the engine. The flywheel (flex plate on automatics) bolts up to the rear of the crankshaft. The torque converter is bolted to the flex plate but not 'till the transmission with the converter installed and retained temporarily has been bolted in place. A clutch is bolted to the flywheel but not bolted to the transmission...the input shaft passes through the clutch disc that will drive it when in use. Therefore, the transmission is never actually bolted to the flywheel. That connection is made and controlled by the converter or clutch. There are "direct drive" systems but they are never used in passenger cars. Those systems use a coupler or variable engagement process that depends on rpms of the engine etc. To understand what you are working with more fully you can google "how an transmission works". I also suggest you obtain a haynes or chilton manual to aid you in putting your car together. The entire thing is complex but simple...After reading up on it you will see what I mean by that. Good Luck!!!
pull the transmission. remove the torque converter (automatics) or clutch and pressure plate (standards), the bolts for the flywheel are under that. make sure you replace the flywheel with the proper one especially if it's a standard.
You'll probably have to change the clutch plate on the flywheel. You'll have to get a floor jack, but a transmission jack is easier to remove the transmission. To remove the transmission you'll have to remove the tortion bars on both front wheels. Also, you'll have to remove the crossmember aft of the transfer case. You'll also have to remove the front and rear drive shafts. The manual says you should keep the transfer case from leaking oil out the back. but, you can just top it off after you're done. Be careful not to damage the seal seal for the rear drive shaft. Anyway, once you get the transmission and transfer case out (you'll have to remove the shift and transfer case levers), you should have enough space to remove the clutch plate from the flywheel on the engine. You should have an alignment tool to make sure the clutch plate is aligned with the crankshaft so you can put the transmission back on.