Question about 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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2000 Grand Cherokee Upper Ball Joint

Keith,

I read you write up on the rear ball joint on the WJ (2000 Grand Laredo 4.0L). I beleive I have the same issue (rear end clunk over normal raod bumps) and have sway bar, links, etc with no problems obvious. I am pretty hands on (brakes tune ups, shocks springs, etc) and am deciding if i should take on this job since my dealer wants 3-3.5 hours labor at $100/hr to do it. Quoting below:

"With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum."

Do the rubber bushings come with replacement ball joint? Where exactly do the bushings fit, in the flange the bolts to the diff? I will probably have to take the parts to a local machine shop and have them do the bushing press, as I don't have an arbor press. Are they any more details you could provide about this portion of the repair that might help me....every thing else made sense, but without seeing everything apart, I am guessing at what is involved with reassembly.

Thanks, Rob

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Illustration of control arm:
http://www.penguinscouts.com/pics/jeep/Differential%20Suspension.jpg

The wishbone part, number 12, is the control arm. In the two ends, left side of picture, are the two bushings. These are pressed in bushings.

The rubber bushings, with their bonded steel shells, are separate parts, the part number for the (2) bushings are: 52088425

These bushings normally won't be damaged, but, in my case, due to extensive towing of a heavy trailer, these bushings had tears in the rubber bonding between the shell and the central spindle. These tears caused by the trailer snatching the frame around (trailer hitch is frame mounted) while the differential is essentially connected to the earth, through the tire rubber, and to the frame, through the ball joint and arm rubber bushings.

You can easily view the condition of the rubber simply by rolling under the vehicle with a flashlight, and looking. The bolts are vertical, right up through the bushing spindle, into the frame.

The bolts through the bushing spindle mount the arm to the frame.

The ball joint, at the apex of the arm, is number 8, and is Jeep part number 52088808AB.

This ball joint is an assembly which also includes the mounting flange plate. This plate bolts atop the differential housing with three bolts. The ball joint pin protrudes through the hole in the apex of the arms, and is secured by a nut, item 11, Jeep part number 06502698

Again, don't replace the bushings unless you see visible tears in the rubber web, or rotted, aged, cracked out webbing.

One more thing to note if you take down the arm... the emergency brake cables and brake lines are secured to the arm with small metal clips and bolts. Minor point here is when you reattach these bolts, don't crank down on them more than about 12 ft lbs torque, as these bolts go into the sheet metal wall of the arm, and there's no need to try to strip out these threads... Just secure them a bit, not to tank down on them.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

  • keith20mm Oct 06, 2008

    Illustration item 13 are the control arm bushings, part 52088425, one pressed into each end of the control arm.

    If you do find either of these require replacement, then you absolutely need to take the arm to either a Chrysler shop, or at least to someone with an arbor press. I don't think you could correctly or easily replace the bushings without a press, although, in my younger years, I did actually replace control arm bushings with a sledge hammer, not very pretty, but pretty effective..... and you could... ' if you had to '...

    Use a shop press if possible, and have a proper press tool so you don't damage the new bushing pressing it in... i.e., press on the steel shell only, and not on the spindle through the middle of the rubber web. Pressing on the spindle will tear out the rubber web.


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NO YEAR CAR, STATED, 4WD?
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posted over 300 times, the real manual not faked, cloned
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rust happens, and other facts of life. under any car.
what we do , is DO IT and the what comes up handle it.
There is no other ways, no magic.
point 3, we cant see your shop and all those missing tools.

http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

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