FORD GALAXY 2.3 ZETEC 2000 MODEL (my model was not listed)
It was pointed out to me that my near side rear brake-light was out and I had noticed that without my sidelights on the front offside side light came on under braking, I also noticed that with the headlights on that the two working brake-lights came on permanently.I checked the suspect break-light but just touching it made it work, I made sure it was seated properly and now with no lights on the brake-lights work fine although the front sidelight still comes on under breaking, With the headlights on all three brake-lights are permanently on but sometimes flicker when the break pedal is depressed... could this be a faulty switch on the pedal or a faulty relay,
Can I assume that the headlight relay controls both the brake-lights and sidelights ?
I have checked for any loose wires or connections but cannot find any?
I assume the pedal switch is mounted at the top of the pedal but where and which is the headlight relay?
has anyone come across a similar problem?
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The 2000 Ford Focus has the Zetec engine, I believe. On the Zetec, the camshaft timing using notches carved out of the REAR end of the camshafts. With the valve cover off, you would need a special tool(we use a metal piece similar to the shape and size of a measuring ruler we all used in k-12 school) to insert into both camshaft rear notches to line up the timing. Other than that just make sure the crank is lined up. Presto!
Note: There are 2 ways those notches can line up, there's "right side up" and "upside down" ... The special tool should ONLY fit into the notches when they are right side up. The thickness of the tool would need to be about 2-3mm(I think).
may not all have fitted, but that year not to have is rare, when you turn on ign a ABS light should come on unless someone has hiden it to cover a fault. if you look under bonnet, and find the servo/master clylinder unit (near the brake fluid reservoir) track pipes down a block with several brake pipes running to it then it has , if the brake pipes from the master clyinder run direct to the wheels then you have not,
or find a clear road drive down it then slam brakes on hard if pedal throbs thats abs working
There is also a push in socket at the top of the light and a clip at the bottom. When the screws are all undone insert a flat screw driver under the light fitting about 4 inches from the top (remember to use a cloth under the edge of the screwdriver to avoid marking the paintwork) you should be able to push it out now.
follow the light my son..stay away from the switches and relays...your solution lies in the powers/grounds at the chassis /bulb areas...the grounded power to the front bulb is causing brakes to go on..(they are ground actuated )....so you are closer than ever to solving this ..go back to each location making sure that they are clean , grounding to chassis and getting power... the gremlin will go away when ALL are power/ground happy
There is a contact in light wiring. At some point a wire to brake lights make contact to wire to front side light (peeled wire, bad insulated connector etc.) You need to have your wiring circuit inspected.