Question about 2006 Mazda 3
Can you please resend the detail about the reset of the throttle stop for the mazda 3 my only concern is that the manual says that it may cause engine malfunction if the throttle stop is moved which i think it has been
Well, to get it in gear, you can do a few things. The first being press
the clutch in and run it through all of the gears without applying
throttle and then try reverse again. You can also let off the clutch
half way and slightly pull the shifter in to reverse. As you let off,
it'll eventually pop right in to gear.
Comment by mohammed387, posted on Oct 05, 2008The solution is to reset the ambient idle setting
This is easily done … all you need is a piece of wire (like a straightened glider clip) and a screwdriver.
When facing the engine with the bonnet up you will see a little black box on the top of the passenger side wheel arch, with the words "DIAGNOSIS" embossed on it. Open it up by pushing on the top of the side clip. There will be a number of cells inside, some with terminal points. The lid of the box contains the key to these cells. When you insert one end of your wire into the TEN cell and the other in the GND cell, it causes the ECU to be bypassed and the ambient idle setting will be used.
Follow the black air intake tube which runs in front of the engine block to where it meets the intake plenum on the driver's side of the engine - that’s the throttle body. On the top left side of the throttle body you will see a small raised cylindrical section, sometimes with a black plastic covering, which contains a large Phillips head-topped screw. This is the idle adjustment screw. It turns anti-clockwise to increase the ambient idle speed.
So now here is the procedure.
1) Make sure that the engine is warm, but not hot.
2) Turn off all electrical items (fan, radio and lights)
3) Start the car and after it settles into a regular idle notice where the needle is on the tachometer. It should be just over the graduation mark below the "1". (around 850/900 rpm)
4) Bridge the TEN and GND cells
5) You should notice the idle speed change after a few seconds.
6) Have a look at the tachometer. If the ambient idle speed moved then you have discovered the problem.
7) Slowly turn the idle screw until the revs come up to just over the graduation mark on the tachometer.
8) Do this slowly, as there is a slight lag in screwing and response.
9) If the radiator fans come on during the process then stop adjusting and wait for it to go off.
10) When you have it idling where you think it should be remove the bridging wire. In a few seconds the ECU idle setting will kick in. If the engine remains at the same rpm then you have matched the ambient idle to the ECU setting.
11) If not, then replace the bridge and adjust the idle screw,
12) Repeat steps 10 and 11 until the idle speeds are matched.
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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2. Running out of gas, or poor fuel quality
3. Evaporative emissions system (EVAP) concerns: fuel vapors leaking into engine
4. Incorrect Fuel Pressure
5. EGR system concerns: leaking EGR valve or restricted ports
6.Base engine concerns: low compression, valve train problems and timing issues
7. Ignition system concerns including, but not limited to:
Faulty spark plugs
Faulty coil or related wiring
Ignition module or related wiring issues
Ignition related sensor faults or wiring issues
You will have diagnose each element until you find root cause.
And it could be more than one element faulting out.
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issue at low speeds
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
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