Working on a friends 1997 VW 1.9L TD that had a leaking fuel pump, (o-ring on control shaft) Got that fixed up and car runs well but leaks oil like nobodies business from the front of the oil pan. The only other time I've seen so much oil coming out of a car like this was when the front seal was finished! I know this is a big job that will affect the timing but unlike the VW the other car had timing marks for each sproket and with just a quick look I don't see any on the VW. I find it hard to believe that there aren't any markings and may be just looking in the wrong place (hoping). I have found a proceedure on how to do the timing - OMG!!! VW'S back in the dark ages with tdc for the crank... etc. PLEASE tell me there is easy way to set the timing on these engines?
Remove rocker cover and at the rear of the camshaft will be a slot where u can lock the camshaft into position normally a flat bar which fits tightly into slot and crankshaft will be locket via flywheel fuel pump via hole into engine block find right dia drill bit
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
O-ring where? The drain plug? Distributor shaft? Or do you mean oil seal?
Geo oil drain plug specifies a compressible copper ring washer I think? Need to clean the surfaces well, and torque to spec. My own plug's seal is not perfect, but only a drop here and there usually. Autozone or NAPA can supply you a new plug and washer if needed.
Almost certainly it is coming from the rear bank cam cover gasket, for which leak the Camry V6 is notorious. Other common places are the distributor shaft o-ring seal, the crankshaft nose seal (replaceable), and the oil filter adapter bracket (if fitted)
If you get the cam cover gaskets done, specify Toyota parts, as the aftermarket parts don't last, they harden quickly.
Dear Sir, Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, theoil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.
By the "Front" I am assuming that you mean the crankshaft end of the engine.
If your engine is equipped with a balance shaft, there is a good possibility that the balance shaft seal has popped out. There is a "balance shaft seal retainer kit" available at your local dealer to fix this and prevent it from happening again. If this is not the case, it could be the front crank and/or oil pump seals. I have even seen cracked oil pump housings on these units.
Front Main Crankshaft seal leaking ---most likely ---now if it has the inspection cover on it
it can be from crank shaft --head gaskets or cam shaft seal --running down the front behind the cover
and some covers have a special oil seal in front of the cam ---this is a general answer
not the Lesabre specific --if you have the power train under warranty --I'd advise a vist to the dealer and pay the say 50buckish co pay ---but first get a closer and better look --can you remove the top or front of any of the cover ---that is not SILICONED in place --GM loves their silicone !
and see exactly where it is coming from ---if it's the front main crankshaft seal --?
Do I want to replace the front and rear seals together ?
Do I want to do the head gaskets as well --to include the intake
Do I sell the car and buy a toyota --lol ---Made you smile I Bet
Don't panic ---Identify the exact source --weigh the pro's and cons
you could try an off the shelf sealant for the oil and or a metallic or ceramic antifreeze
sealant additive too ----it WILL still need fixed but may get you around for awile --
NOTE for a leaking radiator core -if you ever put BArr's leak in a radiator to stop a radiator leak ---you Should then replace the radiator ---even if it stops the leak ---as it clogs your system and can clog your heater as well ---
Put in drive home or to a close garage then flush out the Barr's leak , replace the radiator then refill
for any parts I recommend rockauto.com ---alot cheaper than an autoparts store FOR most stuff
longest wait to my door 2 days --100%satified thus far BTW I'm a client not their friend or associate
and for used try harry'supullit.com --Hazelton pa ---best junk yard I know of and cheap --