Have a spuratic problem that comes and goes. Can be months with no problems and than starts up again. When I come to a stop, it starts to run rough and then stalls out. It will start fine in park and nuetral, but as soon as I put it into gear (drive or reverse) it stalls out. Car has to sit for about 20 min. before it will drive without stalling out. Sometimes longer, sometimes shorter.
Have replaced fuel lines. fuel pump, filter, all vacuum lines, spark plug, plug wires, alternator, starter, drained out the gas cleaned the tank (while installing new pump), even the nuetral safty switch (Was mentioned to try in many times I've asked others), all sensors I can get my hands on and still having problem every now and again. No one seems to have any ideas as to what it can be. Have taken it to garages, they have found nothing... I'm at a loose and about to have car towed and be doen with it. Any ideas or thoughts??
Hi, you have to check your TCC switch, you can do this by disconecting the wire at the harness at your transmission, use a wiring schematic to verify the correct wire, when it is unplugged drive it around an if the problem doe not come back you know what to replace TCC solenoid. Do not drive on the highway with this disconnected though! Another possible problem may be you EGR valve. Let me know if you solved this problem.
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Hi. It would be useful to get a code read and some live data from a decent diagnostic tool. There are quite a few possible causes including, pressure in tank - if the fuel tank can't vent pressure then a vacuum will eventually form stopping fuel getting to the engine, this will cause it to loose power and stall. Then after a few mins the pressure will drop and the process start again, easy test is when the car stalls remove filler cap - if that's the fault there will be an audible hiss and the car will start up again.
part blocked exhaust will have same problems but will more generally cause a lack of power and acceleration.
are there other symptoms? i.e only when conering or only when pulling off or stopping, engine light on/off. Jon
Crank shaft sensor or air mass meter, is this a v6? I had the 2,6 a4 same fault same miles funny enough. changed the air mass meter is was ok after that. thing is they have so many sensors, you need to get it on a diagnostic machine to be sure.
Look for an IAC sensor (motor) Idle Air Control. Usually located on side & front of throttle body. Not 100% sure which type you'll have but if you have pintle type (pointed end) Remove it, spray it well with throttle body cleaner as well as port it came from, and retry. If it cures it temporarily & starts to do it again, replace it.
have the car checked when the check engine light is on,also a good scanner will be able to give you the history codes,get back to me with the codes and we'll go from there. you need someone with a professional scan tool
I had this kind of problem on my car a couple of times. It can either be the idle control valve or overheating. you can clean the idle control valve or replace it. the one for my car was like $140 at the dealership.
MY 2002 RAINIER DOES THE SAME THING I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT IS THE THROTTLE BODY. I NEED TO CLEAN IT OR REPLACE IT. I HAVE THE 4.2 AND YOU CAN GET ONE FOR $200 PLUS SHIPPING. THE THROTTLE BODY STARVES THE CAR FOR AIR CAUSING THE IDLE, AND SHUT DOWN PROBLEMS. I AM GOING TO TRY IT THIS WEEKEND.
Disconnect the air hose going to the Idle Air contorl Valve and plug the line with a small screw.
if the problem of the idle goes away and the car runs smooth and doesn't stall at stops, it's the air control valve housing sensor, it's basicall the whole unit thats no good. If it still stalls, clean the throttle body housing and all parts in where the air gets sucked in, put a rag underneath to keep the dirt from dripping down, start the car with somebody inside the car reving up the engine to 2000rpm's to 2500rpm's, then spray in to the throttle with burst of throttle cleaner and you will see the gunk keep coming out, you may have to change your spark plugs after this is done also.