Question about 1994 Mazda MPV

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Distributor the dizzy in my 94 mpv isnt providing spark 2 the plugs iv cleaned the cap and checked the leads and coil pack do u think the sensor is buggered ? if so is it possible for a 93 dizzy to bolt onto a 94??

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Yes

Posted on Oct 05, 2008


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Iv gota 3ltr 94 mitsi v3000.the car trys to start but theres just no spark.iv replaced the coil and stil nothing.i was told maybe its the cam angle sensor?? can anybody help and or tel me where the sensors...


the cam angle sensors are part of the electronic ignition system inside the distributor, have you checked the ht lead from coil to dizzy cap, also check to make sure all earth bonds on car are ok

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Motor will turn over but no fire to the sparkplugs. Changed the distributor cap and still no fire


to be more precise,would really need to know the model of engine;4G64,6A11,6A12 etc.should be on vehicle ID badge.the 4 denotes a 4 cylinder,6 is V6,the earlier models have an external coil,or coil pack,the later models have the coil either inside the distributor under the cap.if external coil,remove the coil HT lead that runs to the cap from the cap,place near an area that is earthed and crank engine,should see a spark jump to the metal object.
Both early and later models run modules inside distributors.these often fail.Either can replace them or just get a second hand dizzy complete
Also crank engine with cap off and ensure that rotor is turning.I assume that this one fits into the end of cam at one end of the head,so this should not be a problem,but still check.the more that we find that is ok,the closer we get to what isnt.
hope this helps or get back with some more info and will endeavour to pinpoint problem.

Mar 21, 2011 | 1995 Mitsubishi Galant

1 Answer

I have a Mazda astina 323 94 model it cranks but won't start doesn't seem to be any spark from the leads I have recently changed the leads , Im guessing it's the coil and distributor cap please help


1 remove the cable from the coil to the distributor.
check this agains earth, when you turn the engine over.

if spark, suspect rotor arm is not setting spark to each spark plug lead.
open distributor and clean the rotor arm with a cloth or wire wool
not sand paper as this will take off too much and cause a problem

2 check inside distributor for moisture. spray inside with WD40 or equiventy water repelent.

3 if not spark at coil open distriutor cap and with ignition on, open and close points in distributor with a screw driver and check coil again against earth again if you get sparh, problem is points not opening and closing.

4 turn over engine with distributor cover removed to see if rotor arm is moving if not then cam drive to distributor is defective. this controls points and rotor arm.

if rotor arm turning and spark at points but no spark at coil suspect Low tension wiring or coil needs replacement.

i hope this was helpful

Dec 12, 2010 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

IT IS MISSING iVE REPLACED THE PLUGS


Misfiring Escort...
THE Guide!
1- check HT leads, including the main lead from the coil. pull one off at a time and see if there is any difference in engine noise, if a lead makes no difference to the engine note when you pull it off it is broken and you need a new lead for that plug - best to replace a full set since the others will be on their way out too. try each plug and check the leads like this with the engine running, 2- clean/repace distributor cap and rotor arm if it is dirty or corroded, there are 2 Clips, one on either side of the distributor cap, pull em off, take the distributor cap off, look inside the cap, there are 4 pins, are they all corroded and covered in white stuff?, they should be shiny brass, clean them up with fine wet and dry sandpaper, make them flat and shiny again. also still on the distributor is the rotor arm, pull it off, it may need a bit of wiggling - clean this up the same with the wet and dry, get a very fine grade of wet and dry sandpaper since you want the metal to be as smooth as possible afterwards, once the cap and rotor both have shiny metal clean them with mild detergent, rinse and dry them fully, not only to clean them of dirt and grime but also the metal filings from the sanding are "bad" for the distributor.. once dried refit the rotor arm (it only goes on one way, do not force it) refit the distributor cap, make sure its the right way round (make a note of its position BEFORE you remove it) 3- check if air filter is blocked and replace it if it is very dirty - if you think it is blocked try running the engine without the filter and see if it runs better, you know for sure you have a bad filter if this is the case. 4- check fuel filter (especially on 1.0 and 1.3 engines) for blockage and fuel line for blockage (replacement costs £3.50-£5 or so)
apart from that its "experience required" jobs like setting the ignition timing - just get a normal tune up after you've checked out the leads and dizzy/rotor arm which is quite cheap on an escort, you only turn the dizzy and move 1 screw...
Just for reference in case i have misjudged you're ability and you want to try tune it yourself... 1989 MK4 Ford Escort ;-D you didn't give CC so you'll get all engine data for 1989! (petrol)
NOTE: the CVH engines have hydraulic tappets so no adjustment is possible and no data is given. ---------------------------------------------
Escort 1.3 "HCS" 1988-1990 1297cc Valve tappet clearances - Inlet --- 0.20mm - Exhaust 0.32mm Firing order 1-2-4-3 Idle speed - 700-800RPM -
750RPM is optimal idle but anything between 700-800RMP is acceptable.
Ignition Timing- 15 Degrees before top dead center at idle RPM
Spark Plugs : Motorcraft - AGRF22 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap - 1.00mm (check it is right or it will misfire...)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4 (1392cc) "CVH" - 1986-1990
Firing Order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed 750-850RPM, 800 being optimum _____ NOTE: This engine requires premium fuel (97 Ron) or it will run poorly - damage may result from using low grade fuel. ----------------------------
Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at idle RPM. Spark plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark plug gap 0.75mm (check this)

----------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4i Catalyst - 1.4 "CVH" 1392cc 1989-1990
Idle RPM 850-950RPM 900RPM Being optimum :This engine needs only regular unledad 95RON
Ignition timing - 8 to 12 degrees BTDC 10 degrees being optimum Spark PLugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C1 Champion - RC7YC
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford Escort 1.6 "CVH" 1596CC
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed - 750-850RPM - 800 being optimal Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark Plug Gap - 0.75mm (check it!)
NOTE :This engine will run on regular fuel (95 RON) but the timing should be set to 8 Degrees BTDC at idle RPM for this fuel.
------------------------------------------------------------
FORD ESCORT 1.1 - 1989-1990 - 1118cc "HCS"
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM 750 Being optimal
This engine runs on regular or premium fuel without adjustment
Ignition Timing - 10 degrees BTDC
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGRF22C1 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap 1.00mm (check this!)
-------------------------------------
So check your spark plug gaps with feeler guages if you don't have a feeler guage they're less than a fiver at a cheap motor shop - even pound shop and market stalls sometimes have them.
Apart from that lot - these cars can run bad if the battery is weak, they chug like hell on a half charged or failing battery, so make sure the battery is strong too...
The carburettor jets could be clogged or worn... Inlet manifold could be leaking?
Check the low tension wiring (the wiring on the ignition coil, the two round plugs that puch onto the coil) one red and one green/black/stripey/somethin - trace these two wires around the engine bay and check them for damage and loose connections.
Thats all I can think of right now tell me how you get on, I KNOW these cars... I'll go step by step if you need help checking everything/replacing whats wrong,
------------------------------
Good luck.

Jan 20, 2010 | 1989 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Car running sluggish and rough. multiple misfire. excessive fuel consumption... already replaced sparkplugs, fuel filter and valve cover gaskets. as well as spark plug wires.. what could be the issue..?


Hi there, sounds like this car might have either a bad coil pack or the distributor cap has gone bad. 3 most important things are air, fuel and 12v power. Seems your getting all three but one of them is giving you trouble. Sounds like spark. Try a new distributor cap or a new set of coils and see if that solves the problem.

if it isnt the spark it has to be fuel or air which would lead to lack of fuel pressure which can cause sluggish behavior or the air sensor in the intake if there is any is not working properly and the computer is running on a safety fuel map that is a base map used by manufacturers which burns alot of fuel but stops the engine from destroying it self. Check the coils o the sensors.

Dec 01, 2009 | 2005 Saturn ION

1 Answer

Intermetdent spark at the distributor, car turn it self off while running


Check leads Dizzy cap rotor and coil Also make sure all coil connections are clean & tight

Jul 10, 2009 | 1996 Honda Accord

3 Answers

Car wont start


HI MATE SOUNDS LIKE CRANK SENSOR HAD THE SAME PROBS WITH A SKYLINE

Jun 16, 2008 | 1990 Nissan Pulsar

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