Question about 1997 Nissan Pathfinder
Checked the position setting switch with a multi meter and found no problem (In off position had no continuity).
Pulled both fuses and blower shut down. Put one of the two fuses in and the blower turned back on. I assume the tw 15 Amp fuses are in parallel to accommodate the in rush when turned on full?
Please help. Winter is comming and gas is expensive.
Sounds to me like there is a direct short somewhere in the system. With no continuity through the switch, the blower should shut off. So this means that there is a connection somewhere else supplying voltage to the blower motor. How rusty is this vehicle? Suggest you start looking for a damaged, salt and dirt encrusted harness somewhere under the hood, low enough to collect dirt, salt, grease and moisture. My guess is that you will find a collection of blue/green corroded wires somewhere. This could be time consuming, but you may get lucky and find it quickly. Look for the obvious. A year/ model specific factory wiring diagram...available over the internet...is a good investment, and may save you much time. If you are keeping the car, get one. You'll be glad you did. This will also tell you if the system is supposed to run on 2 -15 amp fuses, or if that is also a malfunction. Trust me, chasing electrical ghosts is a real pain, especially when you don't know where they are hiding. Keep me posted. Good luck. Chip
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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A bit of troubleshooting is needed to figure out what is wrong. Most common possibilities are blown fuses, blower motor resistor failure, motor failure, or switch. Assuming you've already checked the fuses or you would not be posting for a solution... ;)
Without some electronic testing with a meter I'd think towards this checklist:
Sometimes when a cabin heater fan motor is failing you can give the ductwork around the fan motor area a fairly good wrap with your hand (not enough to do any damage to the duct work or your hand, if it hurts you hit it too hard!) while it is powered on and if the motor suddenly starts turning that usually indicates fan motor failure. Or if it seems to work in warmer temps but not in colder, that can also be a sign of a faulty motor.
With the vehicle off and battery disconnected the blower motor resistor and it's connector can usually be visually inspected for degradation. You can Google up your make/model/year of vehicle along with "blower motor resistor" and typically get a visual of where thething is located and what the part SHOULD lok lijke, Typically they are up on the firewall somewhere. YMMV
If those check out, and you have of course ruled out the fuses, I'd start thinking about the switch, but before I took the time to tear into the dash I'd get a halfway decent digital multi-tester for ~$20-$25, and learn how to use it to test the switch, motor, and wiring. Otherwise it's just a lot of labor and guess work, and those motors and switches can both get pretty pricey.
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