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Get it scanned at Advanced Auto and see what comes up. How old is gas? When was the last time you ran the car? Perhaps your fuel pump, filter? Fuel pressure test at schrader valve ot the fuel lines near intake. If none of these, move on to electrical.
Have you thought about the safety Interlock? The Park and Neutral positions allow the Starter to crank and the engine to run. There is also a position sensor on the clutch for stickshifts so that the clutch (and brake?) have to be depressed to start the engine.
With an Automatic its easier to envision the slide switch moving so when you chose a gear, it kills the engine.( But remains running in P or N.)
purge valve happens, but it's more on the rare side. The most common you have already fixed. I've seen the cross pipe between the two fuel tanks leak and also the lines on top of either tank and the evap line going from the tank to the engine. Also you should check the vent valve (the more I think about it the more I'd lean tword a vent valve). Now to get to that the car needs to be up in the air. You cannot get to it unless you get it up or you are really really skiny.
have you tried checking the map sensor this can sometimes cause the engine to run oddly. also check for good spark check wires when its pitch black out check for wire arching. also check fuel pressure with a pressure guage.make sure cap and rotor are clean of deposits. keep searching and you will find the weak link.
Jim; have you confirm the fuel pum[ is working? If it is, you should get something out of the fuel rail. Sadly. Pump is a dealer recommended repair cause the pump is more than likely in the fuel tank. Thry should changre you filter at the same time.
sorry, but there is no real economical way. the only way is to change the fuel pump and they sell 2 different kinds of units, one that is 2 parts and the whole thing and it runs from $200 to $380. since the fuel pump still works i would just meter my mpg till the fuel pump goes out.